angman wrote:My model is slightly different than the ops and has two sections to the bottom base.

Mind posting the Model # and/or Serial Number? Might help anyone down the line who wants to avoid center cutting.

My grinder was missing the serial # info. Seems like a plate or sticker was missing off the back. However, it easy to spot the difference. The body of mine is one solid piece and is smooth. The ops model you can clearly see a top and bottom section sandwiched together. There is also a texture to the body panels sort of like vinyl. My base is twice the height as the ops and is comprised of 2 pieces. The top section houses the foam piece and the lower houses the pull out grinds tray. The ops foam section is riveted to the baseplate.

A trapdoor lid sounds good. Maybe even something as simple as a pivoting lid that anchors at a corner and moves horizontally.

I need to do something with my GrindMaster.

angman wrote:My grinder was missing the serial # info. Seems like a plate or sticker was missing off the back. However, it easy to spot the difference. The body of mine is one solid piece and is smooth. The ops model you can clearly see a top and bottom section sandwiched together. There is also a texture to the body panels sort of like vinyl. My base is twice the height as the ops and is comprised of 2 pieces. The top section houses the foam piece and the lower houses the pull out grinds tray. The ops foam section is riveted to the baseplate.

The first photo of the OP's Bunn is already modified. If you look at the small photo further down, before he starts cutting anything, it's identical to my G1 and likely yours, since you didn't share a before shot, all your pictures are of it already in pieces.

Very little on the G series has changed, at least on the general design and exterior. Mainly switching from a metal adjustment dial to a black plastic one, but they all have bases/feet, and a box that contains the motor and burrs etc, that is mounted internally to a tall midsection.

http://www.bunn.com/products/grinders/g1.html

angman wrote: I will try to use JB Weld as a glue tomorrow and see if that holds. It's rated for 2980 psi (is that 2980 lbs per square inch)?

It's likely PSI in tension, not in shear, which is how you're likely going to use it. If that's the case, a rivet or screw along with the glue will make it a lot stronger. Then again unless you drop it, even 100 PSI in shear might be enough. You might also consider adding a 2 or 3 inch wide doubler/backing plate so there is plenty of area for the glue to hold.

Ira

I should have took a better before shot before I posted to this thread. At first it was a simple reply but now it seems worthy of adding to this worthwhile thread. I had this picture posted in another prior to me cutting.



So far I have used the JB Weld to glue 3 pieces of the scrap metal that I cut off to the bottom portion to be used as a "backing plate" . I will glue the cut top half on as soon as the bottom pieces have cured properly. I will continue to update with pictures.




As you can see in this picture my original Bunn was comprised of two sections for the base. I need to take out the middle section.

With the middle section taken out I needed to drill 4 holes (pointing to one with screwdriver) on the bottom of the main body piece. I used 4 screws on the bottom plate and they go up through 4 existing holes that were used to secure the middle section that has now been taken out.

Nice project!

JB Weld is machinable and is able to be powdercoated.

That's good to know Stephen, thank you. I assumed I would be able to sand it down and repaint it. I might skip the powdercoat and use a high temp enamel spray instead as I have used that on a Mazzer before and it turned out really nice. Project has been delayed a bit as I wanted to make sure I cure it properly between filling the gaps and sanding.

It paints very well. I have used Rustolieum (sp?) in some very high stress points, over JB Weld, and the flexing and shock of what I was doing did not seem to have any effect. No cracking or chipping or peeling.

All the ironwork was filled with JB Weld, over structural welds, and then painted. Large recoil did not knock any JB Weld loose.

Last night, I launched step one of Mini-Bunnzilla. I swapped in the new Ditting burrs, mount plate by Steve at Mill City Coffee freshly in hand and ran 4 pounds thru it testing it out. Tonight on the way home I'll grab 10 lbs of rice and run that through, clean it up and start taping off marking points for its eventual chopping.