ira wrote:I would measure from the blue wire to the fuse. The pins on VDR1 can be hard to connect with and since it should measure like a wire, measuring at the fuse should allow easy contact and tell you if VDR1 is the problem. I certainly don't see a problem with any of the solder joints. And while they left flux behind when the bridge was replaced, it's not part of the current problem and is probably only a visual issue.

Hi I checked again, and the blue wire to VDR1 reads zero volts (only the brown to VDR1 has the 115V readings, or brown to all the other wires that I previously posted on).

As helpful as all the suggestions are, I think this troubleshooting is beyond my capabilities/knowledge. We tried finding a local PCB repair service and it seems most only work on bigger appliances (fridge/microwaves etc.).

are there members here that will take on such repairs (PCB) that you guys know of? my friend is happy to pay, as long as it's under the cost of new haha (~600$)

did you check if you have any DC AFTER the bridge rectifier? The motor is AC, and the only thing the additional parts add are a timer function to switch the grinder off after a set time.

Did you try the motor and caps on AC directly?

If you were anywhere near Los Angeles, I'd say bring it over, but shipping across the border is outrageous.

barqy wrote: As helpful as all the suggestions are, I think this troubleshooting is beyond my capabilities/knowledge. We tried finding a local PCB repair service and it seems most only work on bigger appliances (fridge/microwaves etc.).

are there members here that will take on such repairs (PCB) that you happy to pay, as long as it's under the cost of new haha (~600$)

Well, now that you have gone as far as you could following the advice you were given, I'd still suggest (see my post #17) asking someone who is good at soldering pcb's to simply try carefully heating and resoldering all the component leads. As I said, it may not be the problem but I've occasionally been able to fix electronic equipment (mostly amateur radio stuff) that suffered from cold and other defective solder joints. And to repeat what I said, a few of those joints appear to be of questionable quality.