La Spaziale New EK solenoid trouble
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Hi All,
I have not been getting a lot of help from the group over at CoffeeGeek and would really like to get some information on getting my machine restored.
I just purchased the machine and the coil (solenoid) is buzzing terribly and the water is going out the opv.
Do I replace the coil or do I need to test some things. I should note that I cleaned one side very throughly and everything is is good working condition. It must be something electrical in this case. Since both are bad, could it be something with the control board?
Thanks in advance!
I have not been getting a lot of help from the group over at CoffeeGeek and would really like to get some information on getting my machine restored.
I just purchased the machine and the coil (solenoid) is buzzing terribly and the water is going out the opv.
Do I replace the coil or do I need to test some things. I should note that I cleaned one side very throughly and everything is is good working condition. It must be something electrical in this case. Since both are bad, could it be something with the control board?
Thanks in advance!
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- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 481
- Joined: 8 years ago
A pic to make my description a little more understandable
One of the most satisfying things about taking this machine apart is how well the brass cleans up. I am amazed at how quickly lemon juice works!
Before
After
I cannot wait to get this running! I just ordered new burrs for my grinder as well.
Cheers!
One of the most satisfying things about taking this machine apart is how well the brass cleans up. I am amazed at how quickly lemon juice works!
Before
After
I cannot wait to get this running! I just ordered new burrs for my grinder as well.
Cheers!
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- Posts: 450
- Joined: 9 years ago
Is it buzzing while brewing or just at idle?
I think that's a brew solenoid so it should be just energized while brewing. If this happens during brewing but no water coming out of the group then probably you have bad solenoid or coil.
It shouldn't buzz when it's not brewing since it's not energized, unless it's shorted somehow.
I think that's a brew solenoid so it should be just energized while brewing. If this happens during brewing but no water coming out of the group then probably you have bad solenoid or coil.
It shouldn't buzz when it's not brewing since it's not energized, unless it's shorted somehow.
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It only buzzes during brewing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nH2EjIn1VyI
attached is a youtube video. A small amount of water will come out of the grouphead but most of it goes through the three way valve to the drain. I made sure everything inside the solenoid moves as it should when cleaning.
The only thing that concerns me is that both units are doing it. I would be surprised if both of them were bad at the same time, which is what leads me to believe I need to do a bit of electrical diagnosis starting at the coils and going backwards to see if something else is the issue. Those coils are $50 a piece.
I wish I had more experience testing electrical components so I am stuck there unless someone can give me some detailed instructions on what I should be looking for and where I should be testing the coil/what state it should be in when doing so.
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What is the voltage rating on the coils and what is the voltage applied to the coil when it's buzzing? Sounds like it could be low voltage though I can't understand how that would happen.
Ira
Ira
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Regarding the OPV:
The boiler OPV was leaking in my Spaz Mini, so I took it apart for cleaning/flipping the seat. This cured the leak. The issue was then how to re-calibrate the valve cracking pressure? Chris' Coffee and La Spaz USA told me it couldn't be done, and that the only way to do this would be to replace the valve. I emailed La Spaz SpA, who had this to say:
"the safety valve part no. 8582 must open at 1,5 bar.
The valve is presetted from the supplier, it is no possible to adjust the open pressure.
To check the open pressure of the safety valve, you can switch off the appliance, waiting until the machine is cold and then connect an air compressor to the steam wand of the machine in order to increase the boiler pressure and check the safety valve."
For better or worse, and I'm a little nervous about it, I connected an air compressor to the steam wand (set at ~21 psi), and adjusted the OPV valve to crack at that pressure. Honestly, and for safety reasons, I may just go ahead and drop the $50 for a replacement valve.
The boiler OPV was leaking in my Spaz Mini, so I took it apart for cleaning/flipping the seat. This cured the leak. The issue was then how to re-calibrate the valve cracking pressure? Chris' Coffee and La Spaz USA told me it couldn't be done, and that the only way to do this would be to replace the valve. I emailed La Spaz SpA, who had this to say:
"the safety valve part no. 8582 must open at 1,5 bar.
The valve is presetted from the supplier, it is no possible to adjust the open pressure.
To check the open pressure of the safety valve, you can switch off the appliance, waiting until the machine is cold and then connect an air compressor to the steam wand of the machine in order to increase the boiler pressure and check the safety valve."
For better or worse, and I'm a little nervous about it, I connected an air compressor to the steam wand (set at ~21 psi), and adjusted the OPV valve to crack at that pressure. Honestly, and for safety reasons, I may just go ahead and drop the $50 for a replacement valve.
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ira wrote:What is the voltage rating on the coils and what is the voltage applied to the coil when it's buzzing? Sounds like it could be low voltage though I can't understand how that would happen.
Ira
Ira,
Could you explain to me how to test that? I should mention that I wired my own plug and outlet in the wall...Could that be the issue? It also takes a long time to heat the boiler (a few hours). I have no experience using a multimeter but just picked one up and with a little instruction, I am sure I can test whatever needs testing.
Cheers!
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BEFORE I CONFUSE ANYONE ELSE
Ira had a good point about the electricity. I have a feeling that I wired my outlet wrong for this. I went from a 4 wire, to a 3 wire outlet from my dryer and put my white (Ground) wire on the white wire in the 4 wire outlet instead of the bare ground. I think I am only getting 110v now which would explain why everything is not working properly, and also why the boiler takes so long to heat up. I will try that before asking any more questions.
Cheers!
Ira had a good point about the electricity. I have a feeling that I wired my outlet wrong for this. I went from a 4 wire, to a 3 wire outlet from my dryer and put my white (Ground) wire on the white wire in the 4 wire outlet instead of the bare ground. I think I am only getting 110v now which would explain why everything is not working properly, and also why the boiler takes so long to heat up. I will try that before asking any more questions.
Cheers!
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Perhaps consulting an electrician would be useful here. A dryer outlet has a hell of a lot of power and can kill. Be careful and consult a pro if in any doubt.
Retracing he wiring on the machine is worthwhile if there is any doubt to voltages and connections.
Retracing he wiring on the machine is worthwhile if there is any doubt to voltages and connections.
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You are absolutely right. No sense in killing myself before getting a taste of what this machine can do!