La Spaziale Mini Vivaldi II - Steam boiler engaging when plugged in

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
Doodee

#1: Post by Doodee »

Hello,

I am hoping someone might be able to help. I recently had to make some repairs to my 7 year old Vivaldi in order to fix some leaks that were tripping the circuit breaker in the house.

However today I discovered a new problem. When I plug the machine in the steam heating element engages straight away even with the machine still in standby (light blinking).
When I checked the pressure after a few minutes it also goes into the red, suggesting it isn't switching off either.

I'm assuming it is related to some control circuit but I'm not certain and couldn't find information from searching.

If anyone can help I'd be incredibly grateful. It's been a couple of weeks since I last had a cap and I've some glorious double washed Rwandan going to waste in my freezer. Filter just doesn't cut it!

JRising

#2: Post by JRising »

That is a strange one... The newer Mini Vivaldis use solid state relays instead of the Triacs of the older models. I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me on weekends, but SSRs tend to fail in the closed "On" conductivity when they fail, if the SSR is live even in standby, then the element is getting power. It could be other things, but this is the immediate "check first" if yours is a newer machine.
Also check element for short to ground (with connections removed), post again with pics of powerboard, relays, questions or age of machine if we can help further.

Doodee

#3: Post by Doodee »

It's manufacture date is 2013.
I took a few extra photos but would have to strip it down to get better ones (never gone that far with it before!)






JRising

#4: Post by JRising »

That blue "Celduc" is your SSR, just as a quick test, with the machine UNPLUGGED, check for continuity from brown to brown on one side of it (THe thick wire side) and brown to brown on the other thick brown pair. If you get continuity across one side of that SSR with the machine off, then double check with the wires pulled off (to be sure it's not measuring continuity through some other component) and if it's closed when not powered, the SSR is shot.

If the above does not make sense, let us know. Don't work inside the machine if the machine is plugged in, you already know things are live that shouldn't be.

On a side note, you could pull the live wire off of the steam boiler (that short S-shaped wire from the hi-limit safety thermostat to the element), store that wire out of the way and make sure that the coffee side of the machine works normally. You'll be much happier if you're able to enjoy your coffee.

Doodee

#5: Post by Doodee »

Thanks for all your help. Had a busy week so only got round to trying this today.

Tried all the browns going horizontally and it didn't seem to change. Machine has been plugged out for a week.

Haven't tried disconnecting the steam boiler for espresso yet. Will try that next.

rktcyntst

#6: Post by rktcyntst »

Doodee wrote:Hello,

I am hoping someone might be able to help. I recently had to make some repairs to my 7 year old Vivaldi in order to fix some leaks that were tripping the circuit breaker in the house.

However today I discovered a new problem. When I plug the machine in the steam heating element engages straight away even with the machine still in standby (light blinking).
When I checked the pressure after a few minutes it also goes into the red, suggesting it isn't switching off either.

I'm assuming it is related to some control circuit but I'm not certain and couldn't find information from searching.

If anyone can help I'd be incredibly grateful. It's been a couple of weeks since I last had a cap and I've some glorious double washed Rwandan going to waste in my freezer. Filter just doesn't cut it!
Have you reached out to Chris Coffee support? Their techs are masters with issues on the S1, and they'll be able to guide to to a fix.

Not intended to take away from folks here, but they're experts in this and may point you to a solution with their first email reply. Give them a shout via email: support at chriscoffee dot com.

Disclaimer: I have no relation with CC - just a very satisfied customer over the almost 11 years with the S1!

Doodee

#7: Post by Doodee »

Good idea!
My only hesitation is that I didn't purchase from them but sure it's worth a shot!



I disconnected all brown and blue wires to the steam boiler and was finally able to enjoy an espresso. I'm wondering how to make it safe so it can be left on for longer periods.
I was also wondering if one of these wires could be damaged?

rktcyntst

#8: Post by rktcyntst »

Doodee wrote:Good idea!
My only hesitation is that I didn't purchase from them but sure it's worth a shot!
I don't think it matters! They're the primary entry point for S1 to USA, and if they're able to troubleshoot without needing to get new parts, awesome! Just keep them in mind if you do get to a point where you need spare parts.

If it turns out that you need some parts to get your machine well, that's get'em from them in return for the advice.

Best of luck!

I'd love to give you pointers, but I don't know what the fix is...

Doodee

#9: Post by Doodee »

So I got a reply from Chris coffee:

If the machine is in stby mode and the steam boiler is heating take your voltmeter place one probe to each terminal of the steam element. If you complete the circuit at the element and see 110v it is the relay.
Will be trying this soon to see if it works but thought I'd post incase someone from the future searches the issue.

JRising

#10: Post by JRising »

"If the machine is in stby mode and the steam boiler is heating take your voltmeter place one probe to each terminal of the steam element. If you complete the circuit at the element and see 110v it is the relay. "

The above is mostly true, although it is physically possible for the powerboard to have an issue where the powerboard is powering the steam side of the SSR even in Standby, wherein the the above would lead you to wrongly accuse the SSR.

If you scroll up, there's the test at the SSR that could definitively prove it "Failed Closed" with no power. And it's a bit safer to have your hands in the machine when it's unplugged.

Have you tested the SSR directly? If so, what was the conclusion?