La Pavoni Minimo Massimo Switch Replacement

#1: Post by **GoodBeans** » September 1st, 2022, 12:56 pm

After restoration and a couple of years of flawless everyday performance, I noticed the power switch on my v1.4 Europiccola felt different. I took a look and noticed the switch had burned out and crumbled. See attached.

I do not know what happened(why did it burn out?) and cannot find an original replacement switch.

I do not know what specifications to look for in a replacement switch. I see no markings on the original switch. I saw someone here had posted a diagram for a 3-way toggle replacement, but I was confused.

I do know that the toggle should have a threaded attachment to go through the 1/2" hole, but do not know what voltages, etc. are required. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

#2: Post by **redbone** » September 1st, 2022, 1:08 pm

Try the following links:

A) 1st Gen La Pavoni Europiccola with 3 way toggle

B) La Pavoni Europiccola 1974-77 3-way switch light

C) https://m.littelfuse.com/technical-reso ... hrows.aspx

September 1st, 2022, 1:13 pm

Yes, those are the links that confuse me.

Is a 2-way, 1A 250v/3A 125V switch an acceptable replacement?

#4: Post by **Jeff** » September 1st, 2022, 1:29 pm

On 120 V, 1000 W is over 8A -- I would not recommend any switch with less than a 10 A rating. A 15 A or higher rating would be my choice.

Switches that display a different rating for 120 VAC vs. 240 VAC may not be among those of better quality.

September 1st, 2022, 1:45 pm

GoodBeans wrote:Is a 2-way, 1A 250v/3A 125V switch an acceptable replacement?

No. Look for ones that are 10A or 15A at 120+v (There are plenty of 10A-12v switches. Do not use those.)

If you want an original switch, then perhaps francescoceccarelli.eu has one from machines that he has dismantled.

(and as you have to re-do the wiring due to the heat damage, I would suggest going to three prong, and wire the ground to the boiler and to the chassis.)

#6: Post by **ira** » September 1st, 2022, 1:48 pm

There are a number here that should work. Looks like there's no surplus ones, so all the interesting ones will be rated 110V 15A, 220V 10A.

https://www.allelectronics.com/category ... gle/2.html

#7: Post by **bwren** » September 1st, 2022, 1:52 pm

If you are going to be replacing the switch, I agree with redbone - get a 3-position On-Off-On toggle switch - much safer. Where I differ with his suggestion, is to suggest instead a double pole switch (DPDT) - this will let you have both elements in parallel in Massimo, just like the original. If you get a SPDT switch, you would have only the larger element on in Massimo, with less wattage for steaming and start up.

These toggle switches are very easily available, and I'd suggest buying a name brand switch rather than an off-brand from eBay. Just make sure that the mounting hole is ~12mm (+- 0.5). I just did a search at an electric supply - newark.com for DPDT + 15A toggle, and came up with 20 switches in stock. . Here are two under $5:

https://www.newark.com/eaton-cutler-ham ... dp/46K8992

https://www.newark.com/multicomp/mcr13- ... dp/94T9205

If you are unsure how to hook it up, I can give you directions.

If you want to preserve the original look, you can attempt to have the original switch fixed. I don't think Franceso has any available, but he might be able to fix it for you.

September 1st, 2022, 6:45 pm

Thank you all. Very helpful.

Sounds like rewiring with a 3-prong switch is the safest bet.

Bwren, I may need to ask you for some help. I'll reach out if so. Thanks for offering.

October 6th, 2022, 8:56 am

When adding a new DPDT switch and power cord, is it necessary to ground to both the boiler plate and the base because of the boiler gaskets?

I'm having trouble attaching a grounding post to the aluminum base. Soldering and epoxy has not worked.

October 6th, 2022, 11:38 am

Two grounding points are current best practice and are more-or-less required for current electrical certification.

However, you might pretend that you are living in the 1960's and just ground the boiler. I'm obviously not going to recommend that in a public forum. As long as the base has paint in good condition, then you'll always be insulated from voltage by the paint (as long as the paint is nonconducting). With no second ground, you must ensure continuity between the boiler to the base (the switch hole should have no paint so you can check there), and, when installed, continuity to the switch body. Then the only way to get zapped would then be a (metal) switch failure (or conductive paint or a paint failure).

You could then ground the switch case - use/make a ground tag around the switch, e.g., https://ae.rsdelivers.com/product/apem/ ... ag/2369193# (this one is for mini-toggles).

For additional protection - and water resistance - you could put a marine cover over the toggle switch, e.g., https://www.amazon.ca/Invincible-Marine ... B007ZZFWQ0