La Pavoni Europiccola v1.4 - flange clearance issues
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Coffeedudeman
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 2 years ago
Hello guys,
So I recently picked up a v1.4 Piccola. I wanted to do the newer 2 pole element with the pressurestat that Francesco did. I ordered all the necessary parts from Stefano's. They were very helpful and knowledgeable in coordinating my order with me. As I went to tighten the flange with the tool, I ran into issues. As you can see in the photos, the tool does not clear the base as it is hitting on the front and back of the base. Has anyone run into a similar issue? I am afraid that this will be impossible to get off, as it is already very hard to turn. I am afraid the threads are clogged with debris from the base. I would appreciate any help or insight.
So I recently picked up a v1.4 Piccola. I wanted to do the newer 2 pole element with the pressurestat that Francesco did. I ordered all the necessary parts from Stefano's. They were very helpful and knowledgeable in coordinating my order with me. As I went to tighten the flange with the tool, I ran into issues. As you can see in the photos, the tool does not clear the base as it is hitting on the front and back of the base. Has anyone run into a similar issue? I am afraid that this will be impossible to get off, as it is already very hard to turn. I am afraid the threads are clogged with debris from the base. I would appreciate any help or insight.
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Sw1ssdude
- Posts: 301
- Joined: 6 years ago
Isnt the flange thread a regular thread? (as in: leftie-loosie, righty-tighty?) meaning that the tool and the flange will rotate away from the clearance issues as you loosen it?
you see those threaded holes, looking so enticing, like you could screw some leverage of sorts in those?
Don't.
it will end in tears.
i went around the same problem by simply not removing the boiler from the base. if you are set to paint the base, there is no way around (if you want to do a proper job. you can also go nuts with masking tape, but the results will show a half assed attempt...)
those threads are metric fine thread (metric has for every bolt size one regular thread pitch in fraction of a millimeter, and one or several finer pitches), so the friction created in the threads is immense since the complete length of the thread spiral is almost a meter (or non-metric: one square-gallon-pond per farenheit-bushel).
Heat is your friend: heat that flange with a MAP gas torch until it is searing hot. some people say to heat only one half of the flange, to create uneven dilation, while others go with even heating throughout.
also, use a proper tool that engages well without having to grip it while twisting (like pliers). to prevent it from slipping out of the notches, come up with a clever way to clamp the tool down. the moving flange will walk against the clamping force, but the path it travels in the rotation for you to tell that it finally budges is so minimal it wont do any harm to the tread. then release the clamp a bit, and repeat.
you see those threaded holes, looking so enticing, like you could screw some leverage of sorts in those?
Don't.
it will end in tears.
i went around the same problem by simply not removing the boiler from the base. if you are set to paint the base, there is no way around (if you want to do a proper job. you can also go nuts with masking tape, but the results will show a half assed attempt...)
those threads are metric fine thread (metric has for every bolt size one regular thread pitch in fraction of a millimeter, and one or several finer pitches), so the friction created in the threads is immense since the complete length of the thread spiral is almost a meter (or non-metric: one square-gallon-pond per farenheit-bushel).
Heat is your friend: heat that flange with a MAP gas torch until it is searing hot. some people say to heat only one half of the flange, to create uneven dilation, while others go with even heating throughout.
also, use a proper tool that engages well without having to grip it while twisting (like pliers). to prevent it from slipping out of the notches, come up with a clever way to clamp the tool down. the moving flange will walk against the clamping force, but the path it travels in the rotation for you to tell that it finally budges is so minimal it wont do any harm to the tread. then release the clamp a bit, and repeat.
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