La Marzocco GS3 Performance Touch Steam Wand Installation

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Jake_G
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#1: Post by Jake_G »

I recently upgraded my steam wand to the Pro Touch unit, and I thought I'd share a quick overview of what the retrofit kit includes, and how to swap it out on the GS/3. I had the Burn-Me wand on the machine, so my installation will look different than what would be expected on someone with the cool-touch wand.

First, let's look at what you get in the kit:

Retrofit kit 938 is a completely assembled steam wand with the mounting bracket/ball joint, short plated extension tube and a complete valve assembly. I forgot to take a picture until I had removed the cover nut to swap the stainless bracket over, so sorry about that. It comes with the chrome cover nut and toggle installed finger tight on the valve.

Assembly begins with removing the old wand and valve assembly together. This requires removing the side panel, the cup tray and the instrument panel. Here are the tools I used:


The 17mm wrench is to remove the steam tube from the back of the valve. The crescent wrench is to hold the valve node stable while you turn the tube nut with the 17mm wrench and also to gently snug up the chrome cover nut. The flat head screwdriver is to loosen the screw that holds the stainless steel bracket that secures the steam valve to the machine frame. There is a nut on the back side of this frame that I was able to secure with my fingers to both loosen and tighten the screw. The #1 Phillips screwdriver is to tighten the steam wand mount/ball joint to the machine frame, using the included stainless steel screws, and the #2 Phillips screwdriver is for removing the cup tray and the instrument panel. If you still have the 13mm nuts behind the chrome beauty nuts, you'll need a deep 13mm socket and a ratchet to drive it, as well. I removed those nuts years ago, so I didn't need those tools.

Since we're cracking into the steam boiler supply line to the valve, and working near energized power leads for the coffee boiler heating element, begin with a cold machine that is turned all the way off on the main switch and unplugged. We don't need any electrocutions or steam burns in the pursuit of a better steaming experience.

After removing the chrome nuts (and the 13mm hex nuts behind them, if you still have them), you can remove the side panel:



Next, you remove the two Phillips screws securing the cup tray after lifting the cup tray grate off:


Then remove the cup tray:


With the cup tray removed, you can remove the instrument panel after removing the two Phillips screws securing it to the lower panel:


The instrument panel can be lifted straight up and over the group with the keypad installed and set on the drain tray:


Next comes loosening the steam tube using two wrenches. Ideally you'd use a flare nut wrench on the tube nut, but due to the close proximity to the bypass valve on the pump, I was unable to fit a flare nut wrench in:


I laid a rag under the tube nut to soak up the condensate that dripped out:



With the steam tube loose, it's time to loosen the slotted screw securing the steam valve to the machine frame:


Thanks to the slot in the valve bracket, I was able to hold the little nut on the back of the slotted screw with my finger without the need for an 8mm wrench. YMMV:



After that, remove the screws securing the ball joint bracket to the machine frame:


From here, I found it useful to tilt the whole assembly forward to make it easier to remove the chrome cover nut and toggle:


Then you can slide the whole shebang up and out of the machine:



Old vs new:


My steam wand had an aftermarket tip on it and I noticed that the new wand has slightly smaller holes than what I had. The new tip is on the left:


Installation is pretty much the reverse of the removal.

I slipped the valve into the frame without the chrome cover nut:


Then I slipped the bracket over the valve and threaded the cover nut onto the valve body:


From there, I lined up the valve with the hole in the panel, tightened the tube nut and the bracket, installed the ball joint bracket to the frame and put the panels back on.



Easy peasy.

First impressions?

It took me a while to get used to not having the rubber grip on the wand. But once that passed, this thing is wonderful to use. The steam is drier than with the burn-me wand and with the smaller holes, I have much better control. Latte art is easier, but I still suck at it :P

The ball joint is smooth as butter and I actually find that it takes a second hand to wipe the wand now, because with a one-handed approach, I wag the wand all over the place when I'm not holding it still. I'm sure this is a transition phase, where my grip on the rag is a bit tighter than it needs to be. Easy maneuverability notwithstanding, this is a pleasure to use. It really does not get hot past the actual steam tip. It is pretty magical. I always wipe the wand just after steaming, so there's no big change there, but it's nice to know that kids or guests won't get hurt if they accidentally grab the wand. It also really cleans up the look of the machine just getting rid of the rubber grip. I'm glad I made the upgrade!

Is it worth the cost? Well, it isn't cheap, that's for sure. But seeing that it comes with an entirely new valve assembly and it is assembled and ready to drop in, I think it is worth the substantial cost. The quality is there, and i know the wand itself costs a pretty penny to manufacture with the concentric tubes that have to be bent together, without touching and then welded tight under a vacuum to avoid heat transfer. This takes a technologically advanced manufacturing capability and LM contracted this job out to the same company that manufactures insulated fuel lines for NASA, so you're getting your money's worth.

Ultimately, it's all about what you value. And I'm really happy with the results on my machine.

Cheers!

- Jake
LMWDP #704

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BaristaBoy E61
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#2: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

Thanks Jake - I think I can do it, although I don't own a GS3 but nice to know I can.
Does the current series come standard now with this new assembly?

Thanks for sharing!
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

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Jake_G (original poster)
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#3: Post by Jake_G (original poster) replying to BaristaBoy E61 »

Happy to share!

From the GS/3 configurator page, it looks to be standard.

LMWDP #704

cozy
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#4: Post by cozy »

Thanks for the photos. Nice machine to work on.

Enjoy the holidays

Wattbe
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#5: Post by Wattbe »

Thanks for the detailed write up Jake!

It's always interesting and super useful, seeing how the machine comes apart and then goes back together.

Cheers!

dcbrown1
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#6: Post by dcbrown1 »

Hi Jake. This is an awesome link with an outstanding set-by-step installation process and performance commentary. I purchased my GS3 in 2008 (sn 0312...pre-fire sale) and it came with a "cool touch" wand. And as everyone probably knows, it was basically a plastic tube running through a pipe. Steam performance was bad, so I "upgraded" to the burn wand and the performance was way better. I really don't have a steam performance issue at all so long as I give it a good long blast (to heat things up and remove condensation) just prior to steaming. But, ya don't know what ya don't know...I must admit I'm now intrigued. Jake, may I assume you had your burn wand really hot prior to steaming? If so, JUST based on performance (not concerned about burns), would you upgrade? How much better is it! Thanks! Dave

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Jake_G (original poster)
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#7: Post by Jake_G (original poster) »

Hey Dave!

Mine is serial 321, so chances are they were made the same month!
dcbrown1 wrote:Jake, may I assume you had your burn wand really hot prior to steaming? If so, JUST based on performance (not concerned about burns), would you upgrade? How much better is it! Thanks! Dave
It's a tough call. Yes, I had my wand blisteringly hot prior to steaming before. Unfortunately, I also have a new tip with the new wand, so I can't comment on whether the improved steaming performance is due to the tip or the wand. If you look at the "old vs new" photo above, you'll notice there is a slight change in shape, as well. The new wand goes noticeably higher up and comes forward noticeably less before it heads down at a less noticeably different angle. The net result is that the tip is in roughly the same position as before - relative to the ball joint - but it is angled slightly different. This, coupled with less purging needed to get the condensate out, and the blissful coolness of the wand makes it worth it to me.

The fact that it steams just as fast and with better control is icing on the cake.

I would do it again.

If you're ever up in Neenah, feel free to swing by and give it a try :D
LMWDP #704

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JokerJacket
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#8: Post by JokerJacket »

Slightly off topic, but did you remove your flow profiling mod setup you did a couple years back?

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Jake_G (original poster)
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#9: Post by Jake_G (original poster) replying to JokerJacket »

Temporarily.

I will be reinstalling it once the Micra review unit arrives.

Good eye!

- Jake
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PhillySteve
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#10: Post by PhillySteve »

Is it necessary to replace the whole valve assembly? It looks as if only the wand itself could be swapped out for the burn-me wand. Or are the ball joints somehow different?

Steve

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