Journey of Repairing Motor on Quick Mill Vetrano 2B

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
glinskonian
Posts: 37
Joined: 1 year ago

#1: Post by glinskonian »

So I recently purchased a ~10 year old Quick Mill Vetrano 2B. It's quite a beast!

Soon after I turned it on I ran into issues: among the low/no pressure issues which were solved by clearing clogs in a few jets, I noticed that the pump motor was very noisy whenever the cam lever was lifted. The machine also struggled to reach 9 bars, if at all sometimes. Seeing as the motor was running (just not very well), I ruled out the start capacitor.

I got a few quotes to replace the motor. One shop quoted me $250 for the motor + ~$100 in labor. I figured it was worth a shot repairing the motor and potentially saving $400+. Note that you can also buy a new motor from Chris' Coffee for about $170. But it's still worth trying to rebuild the motor in my opinion, especially if it's something bearing related.

I have a strong suspicion that the issue lies with the motor's bearings. That would explain the grinding/whiny noise and also explains the fact that the motor still runs, just not well.


So the next step was to remove the motor, open it up and see what was going on in there. Here's the steps to do take out the motor:
1) loosen the 2 nuts that hold the hose clamps onto the water pump (the brass thing that's connected to the bottom of the motor). You'll also need to loosen a larger brass nut that's also connected to the motor).
2) Loosen the screw that for the coupler/clamp that holds the water pump onto the motor. Make sure to completely remove this coupler, otherwise it will be difficult to remove the pump from the motor. At this point the pump should pop off.
3) Remove the small nut at the top of the motor where it connects to the motor/pump bracket.
4) Then, You'll need to remove 4 nuts that hold the motor and pump bracket in place. I didn't have enough clearance to take the motor out with the bracket on, but you might be lucky and be able to leave it on. This bracket also has 4 rubber bushings that the motor/pump sits on, sits it's easy to recognize.
5) all that should be stopping you from removing the motor at this point are 4 wires.
The first 2 wires to be removed are connected to the start capacitor (brown and blue in my case) which can be taken off by pulling on the spade connectors (see pic below):

Make sure you discharge the capacitor first by connecting the 2 terminals with something metal.

6) There should be one more brown wire and blue wire which are your hot wires. I had to snip these off as the connectors for them were burried deep in there and not worth finding imo. When I reassemble the machine I will add spade connectors.
7) Lastly, the ground wire (yellow and green) will be bolted onto the body of the motor under one of the 3 bolts. Simply unscrew the nut connected to the bolt to remove this.
8) The motor should now come off

The next post will talk about how to open up the motor and inspect it for issues.

glinskonian (original poster)
Posts: 37
Joined: 1 year ago

#2: Post by glinskonian (original poster) »

The next thing I had to do was open up the motor to inspect the bearings.

To open it:
1) You need break open the motor's case by applying pressure on the motor's shaft. This will be the bottom side of the motor where it connects to the water pump. You'll know it's the right side because it will have a larger and wider slot where it connects to the pump. The seam where the case connects to is extremely tight and there doesn't seem to be another way of opening up the case.
2) I took a piece of wood and placed it over the motor shaft, then used a hammer to carefully hammer the shaft, which will allow you to break open the motor's casing. As long as you use something forgiving to cover the shaft before you start hammering on it you should be good.
3) The case should be open at this point once you hammer it out far enough. You can also use a flathead screw driver to pry the case apart, but be EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to damage the laminate that sits just below the casing (I goofed and scraped up mine).


I then inspected the 2 bearings on each end of the
rotor shaft for wear.


If you feel any bit of side to side wiggle on the bearings then they're more than likely worn out.

Now where it gets interesting is that on my motor the bearings are custom and seem impossible to locate.
The motor is a RPM spa model C00512. It seems pretty similar to this one that Chris Coffee sell: https://www.chriscoffee.com/products/pu ... 53de&_ss=r


The bearing is a 6202ZV bearing made by CW


It's a weird bearing in that the bore diameter (12.5mm) isn't typically mated to a 35mm outer diameter bearing. There's also a small ridge on the inside of the bearing.

The closest I could find to this was a 6202zz bearing: https://www.amazon.com/TIMKEN-15x35x11m ... 144&sr=8-3

But the diameter is too wide for what I need (original is 12.5mm ID X 35mm OD X 11mm W vs. 15mm ID X 35mm OD X 11mm W for the replacement).

If anyone knows of a bearings supplier that stocks a bearing like this that would be epic.

I'm going to call the motor manufacturer soon and inquire about replacement bearings.

austinado16
Posts: 387
Joined: 1 year ago

#3: Post by austinado16 »

Why don't you just buy a pair of 6202 bearings and pop those in?

Or, using a thin screw driver, pick the metal seal from one side of each bearing, press in some fresh grease, snap the seal back into position, and put 'er back together. It's very likely that any "play" in the bearing, is sort of taken up when the motor housings are put back together, so with a nice packing of fresh grease, you should be pretty happy for a loooooong time.

You're in California, so just call your local NAPA auto parts store, and they probably have 6202's in stock.

But honestly, if you think in terms of where those bearings live, and the amount of load and use they get, I'll be you can just push grease into them after picking the seals, and they'll be good to go.

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bostonbuzz
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#4: Post by bostonbuzz »

I think you want to re measure the bearings. SKF has a huge selection and there are no 12.5mm bearings. There are 12mm and 12.7mm.

https://www.skf.com/group/products/roll ... l-bearings

If I had to guess I would bet that you measured the shaft and not the inner diameter of t he bearing. From you photo there appears to be a little shaft collar between the shaft and the bearing. I'd bet a coffee that's 1.25mm in thickness which would mean that you need any 6202 bearing to replace it.
LMWDP #353

Giampiero
Posts: 851
Joined: 8 years ago

#5: Post by Giampiero »

I'm quite sure i replaced once that bearings and here i can only find SKF, so i think there is a oem bearing suitable size.
I suggest you to verify if any play in the motor shell bearings housing, if too much play a new bearing will be useless.

glinskonian (original poster)
Posts: 37
Joined: 1 year ago

#6: Post by glinskonian (original poster) »

6202's have a 15mm bore diameter so it won't work (mine has a 12.5mm bore). I actually went to a local bearings supplier and picked up some 6202's thinking they would do the trick, but no luck. I ended up going back to them with the OEM bearing and even they were stumped as to what could replace this bearing... it really does seem like something custom.

Plus the little collar/spacer thing on the OEM bearing sets it apart from a 6202 bearing. That I've never seen before.

glinskonian (original poster)
Posts: 37
Joined: 1 year ago

#7: Post by glinskonian (original poster) »

Nope, the bearing bore is 12.5mm dead on as measured on the actual inner bearing. Unless my cheapo calipers is out of whack! (wouldn't be surprised).

glinskonian (original poster)
Posts: 37
Joined: 1 year ago

#8: Post by glinskonian (original poster) »

Here's some pics of the bearing and it's measurements (apologies for the upside down readings. Oh the joys of being left handed):







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bostonbuzz
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#9: Post by bostonbuzz »

Looks like you owe me a coffee. Doesn't that sleeve press out? Do you have a bearing puller or a set of sockets you can attemp to remove it?

You would want to reuse it since bearing dimensions are pretty finicky as there is a whole alphabet of tolerances that are nominally the same and the spacer would have to play along with the design.

LMWDP #353

glinskonian (original poster)
Posts: 37
Joined: 1 year ago

#10: Post by glinskonian (original poster) replying to bostonbuzz »

Haha I do indeed owe you a coffee (or 4). The sleeve came right out and looks like it will fit into a standard 6202 bearing.


Going to pop the new bearings in this evening and see if that does the trick.
Cheers.