Help with La Pavoni Europiccola heating element gasket removal - Page 3
- drgary
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John:
I was struggling with understanding wiring diagrams and such when rebuilding another machine. I made some notes that may help you understand. Keep in mind I'm not an electrician and anything you do rewiring your machine is at your own risk. You should probably have a knowledgeable friend check your work or take your La Pavoni to an appliance repair shop and show them your wiring and diagram. Here's the thread where I try and understand some of this:
Rewiring a La Cimbali Microcimbali
I was struggling with understanding wiring diagrams and such when rebuilding another machine. I made some notes that may help you understand. Keep in mind I'm not an electrician and anything you do rewiring your machine is at your own risk. You should probably have a knowledgeable friend check your work or take your La Pavoni to an appliance repair shop and show them your wiring and diagram. Here's the thread where I try and understand some of this:
Rewiring a La Cimbali Microcimbali
Gary
LMWDP#308
What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!
LMWDP#308
What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!
- homeburrero
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Very good advice.drgary wrote: You should probably have a knowledgeable friend check your work or take your La Pavoni to an appliance repair shop and show them your wiring and diagram.
Pat
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Here are two shots of the underside of my machine with the heating element re-attached. I think my biggest problem is that I reattached it in the wrong position, so that was corrected prior to taking these photos. My machine doesn't look like any of those pictured in the link on the previous page. None have the two red wires coming out of the center of the element base. Any help would be great.
thanks again for all the replies.
thanks again for all the replies.
- stefano65
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from the schematic I send you to retrofit old white to new black edge switch
picture and consider the 2 red wires (which inside there is a non resettable thermo-cut-off)
instead of the new style thermostat
picture and consider the 2 red wires (which inside there is a non resettable thermo-cut-off)
instead of the new style thermostat
Stefano Cremonesi
Stefano's Espresso Care
Repairs & sales from Oregon.
Stefano's Espresso Care
Repairs & sales from Oregon.
- homeburrero
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Here is an annotated copy of your image with how I would connect those wires - I labelled the switch terminals 1,3,4, and 6, and labeled the wires that go to them 1,3,4,6.
This is in line with what I was trying to explain in my earlier post, and it assumes your switch is the standard new style (black switch) and is not in there upside down. Ideally your switch is numbered and the numbers agree with my annotation.
#1 is the neutral wire from the cord
#3 is the hot lead from both elements. Notice that it connects to both the high and low wattage elements and traces back to the hot wire on your cord via that red thermofuse wire.
#4 is the wire from the high wattage element (neutral side)
#6 is the wire from the low wattage element (neutral side)
Stefano, am I steering him right?
This is in line with what I was trying to explain in my earlier post, and it assumes your switch is the standard new style (black switch) and is not in there upside down. Ideally your switch is numbered and the numbers agree with my annotation.
#1 is the neutral wire from the cord
#3 is the hot lead from both elements. Notice that it connects to both the high and low wattage elements and traces back to the hot wire on your cord via that red thermofuse wire.
#4 is the wire from the high wattage element (neutral side)
#6 is the wire from the low wattage element (neutral side)
Stefano, am I steering him right?
Pat
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You guys are the best. And an extra thanks to Stephano who's been patiently emailing me for the last two days. I'll give this a shot tomorrow.
- homeburrero
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Looking close, it looks like you have a black cord wire going to the switch and a white cord wire going to the fuse and elements. If that's true, then you still would wire it the way I indicated, but in my description the terms hot and neutral would need to be reversed. (And I should probably use the term 'live' instead of 'hot.')
Europiccola diagrams and pics I've seen up to now have shown a white (or blue) neutral wire going to the switch, and the brown or black live wire going to the thermofuse/elements. Running live (brown or black) through the switch seems like a better idea to me, but I'm not an electrician.
Europiccola diagrams and pics I've seen up to now have shown a white (or blue) neutral wire going to the switch, and the brown or black live wire going to the thermofuse/elements. Running live (brown or black) through the switch seems like a better idea to me, but I'm not an electrician.
Pat
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Thanks again for the diagram. I hooked the wires up that way. When I turn the red switch on nothing happens. Then, when I turn the white switch from I to II the red switch turns on briefly, about half way between I and II, but turns back off when the white switch is turned all the way to II.
thanks,
John
thanks,
John
- homeburrero
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That doesn't sound good.
1) When your machine is right side up, is the red on/off switch above the white I/II switch?
2) Are the switch terminals numbered, and do the numbers agree with the way I numbered the terminals in the picture?
1) When your machine is right side up, is the red on/off switch above the white I/II switch?
2) Are the switch terminals numbered, and do the numbers agree with the way I numbered the terminals in the picture?
Pat
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The red switch is on top. I'll have to get a magnifying glass to check the numbers. Stephano has given me instructions how to check which terminal is the 200W and which is the 1000W. I just need to read the instructions on my multi-tester to figure out how to do that.
thanks again!
thanks again!