Help! Lower Burr Carrier Bolt Removal on Rio Super Automatic (aka Mazzer Major) - Page 3

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.

#21: Post by TallDan »

In my experience with super jollies and minis, the bolt isn't too hard to remove, but once it's out the carrier is still tough to pull out. You may want to just leave it be unless you have a real good reason to remove it.


#22: Post by braxtonjens »

I agree.
Those lower burr carriers are tough little boogers to pull.
Unless absolutely needed. Don't remove it.
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#23: Post by Marcelnl »

the lower burr carrier is not that difficult to remove, just screw in three longer bolts after removing the lower burr and turn each bolt at a time to ease the lower carrier (seem to recall Paul Pratt mentioned this in an old post I read a while back).
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#24: Post by TallDan »

Yes, if it's not too bad, it can be removed that way. One that I had could not be removed that way, I did eventually get it free with a variation on his method, but it took significant effort, and in the end, was not worth it. I did more damage in the way of scratches to the burr carrier and grind chamber than I gained by cleaning the underside of the burr carrier.


#25: Post by harrisonpatm » replying to TallDan »

I'm gonna have to second this; I have about a 50% success rate removing something this way. The other 50% of the time, bolts and screw get broken off and create a worse issue.

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#26: Post by Marcelnl » replying to harrisonpatm »

eeeeh, the idea is that the bolt is removed PRIOR to trying this, basically has the same effect as a pully puller, I used the trick like 3 times on different grinders and it worked each time, YMMV of course.
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#27: Post by harrisonpatm »

I'm referring to one of the three bolts added that are being screwed down to lift the carrier. The 50% failure is when the carrier (or whatever else you're trying to remove, like a stator or gearbox cover) is too stuck and turning the removal bolt isn't budging it, until the removal bolt or screw itself breaks. Again, not every time, but that's usually my last resort.


#28: Post by TallDan »

...but even if it was relatively easy to remove (which in the OP's case it is not), what did you gain by removing it? Cleaning a small amount of residue off the bottom of the carrier? If it comes apart relatively easy, yes it's worth it. If it puts up a fight, I'd leave it alone rather than trying penetrating oils, extreme heat, or large forces.

You have more to lose by damaging things than to gain by cleaning. I suppose that if you somehow have a damaged burr carrier, and can't use the grinder unless you remove it, it's possibly worth the effort in that case. (That would be a rather unusual situation.)

thom8143 (original poster)

#29: Post by thom8143 (original poster) »

This is why I want to remove the lower burr carrier...

This is the filth I was greeted with when I pulled the hopper off and looked down into the burrs. I am having nightmares about some fleck of this foulness getting near my portafilter, and I am guessing anything lurking under the lower burr carrier is gag worthy.


#30: Post by jpboyt »

One way that you can get the lower rotating burr holder off of the armature is to install 3 long threaded screws (5 mm) through the burr holder to press the burr holder off the armature. A little judicious heat applied after lightly tightening the 3 screws will ease the process and keep the damage to the bottom of the chamber to a minimum. Thread holes line up with the edge of the stainless steel plate on the SJ and not sure about Major. Thread screws in evenly to prevent holder from hanging up or bending it. Remember you are only trying to warm the burr holder to get it to expand, not burn off or roast the bean sludge.

The other way is to create a plate with threaded center hole or or is held up by a nut on the bolt that threads into the armature and (3) 5 mm screws through the plate will pull the burr holder up.
You either press the holder off or lift it up. Heat helps.