Help! Lower Burr Carrier Bolt Removal on Rio Super Automatic (aka Mazzer Major) - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
User avatar
civ

#11: Post by civ »

Hello:
trumz wrote: ... tried putting a metal rod (solid screw driver) ...
Hmmm ....
NO.
Don't.
I have a Cimbali Junior Max and when I have to remove the carrier to clean it, I usually block it from turning using that same method.

But NOT by using a metal rod or a screwdriver or anything metallic or hard enough to damage the cast aluminium the chamber is made of or the brass carrier itself.

I use something made from hardish plastic or even a small piece of wood.
Nothing big and you just want wedge something in the small space between one of the carrier's fins and the side of the grinding chamber as you try to move the screw, that will be enough to block it.

See this photo from a post here at HB:



Post is at Mazzer lower burr carrier reinstall question

That's the space where where you have to wedge the blocking instrument.
Patience and Prudence will be your very best friends when doing this. 8^)

Bear in mind that a bolt is much easier to shear off than a nut, whichever way it is turning.

As to the screw being LH or RH, check this thread and see if it says something.
Removing Super Jolly lower burr carrier

My Cimbali Junior Max's motor turns clockwise and the end of the motor shaft has a nut that comes off by turning it in the same direction.
I expect most if not all grinders have the exact same arrangement.

You may want to check using the 'search' function here at HB:

search.php?keywords=mazzer+major+carrie ... t=0&ch=300

As you can see, a search for the terms 'mazzer major carrier' got me 80 pages of very useful information.

Best,

CIV

Marmot

#12: Post by Marmot »

Also pushing against the bolt while trying to turn will help. But don't overdo it although your grinder is probably pretty tough.

thom8143 (original poster)

#13: Post by thom8143 (original poster) »

Marmot wrote:Burr carrier screw loosening using espresso detergent?

This is something else I have found. Maybe tabasco could help in your case as well :mrgreen:
I am almost desperate enough to try the Tabasco. :wink:
trumz wrote:Have you tried putting a metal rod (solid screw driver) in through the chute wedged under the burr carrier? This will stop the burr carrier from moving when you're unscrewing the top screw. A long allen key with an extention (small diameter pipe) should do it.
That screw and washer don't look stock. You're usualy able to get a wrench to hold onto the top of the burr carrier...
I have the burr carrier wedged, but have not tried an extension (cheater bar) on an allen key.
civ wrote:
I use something made from hardish plastic or even a small piece of wood.
Nothing big and you just want wedge something in the small space between one of the carrier's fins and the side of the grinding chamber as you try to move the screw, that will be enough to block it.
Agreed. I definitely don't want to damage the carrier.
civ wrote:
As to the screw being LH or RH, check this thread and see if it says something.
Removing Super Jolly lower burr carrier

My Cimbali Junior Max's motor turns clockwise and the end of the motor shaft has a nut that comes off by turning it in the same direction.
I expect most if not all grinders have the exact same arrangement.

You may want to check using the 'search' function here at HB:

search.php?keywords=mazzer+major+carrie ... t=0&ch=300

As you can see, a search for the terms 'mazzer major carrier' got me 80 pages of very useful information.

Best,

CIV
I feel fairly certain that the bolt is made to be removed in the normal way (turned counter-clockwise), but in all my research I have not been able to confirm it. Thanks for the tip on the search function on HB. I will keep perusing for any useful tips.

I tried heat without any positive results. I am adding a penetrating oil at the head of the bolt every few hours. I am trying my best to stay patient and not over do it and unintentionally damage something else.

Thanks all for your help.

User avatar
civ

#14: Post by civ »

Hello:
thom8143 wrote: ... burr carrier wedged ...
... not tried an extension ...
To be able to use an extension, the first thing you need is a proper grasp.
eg: if this were a nut, a proper hold on it.

I have serious doubts about this being at all possible with an allen head bolt.
And if you could, excess force applied in the wrong direction will shear the bolt's head.
thom8143 wrote: ... feel fairly certain that the bolt is made to be removed in the normal way ...
... not been able to confirm it.
Maybe you are right, maybe not.
It's what ... a 50/50 chance? 8^D

Which way does the burr carrier turn?
Circumstancial evidence, ie: in many cases, the bolt/nut turns in the same direction as the burr carrier, causes to presume that this could be your case but I am in no way certain of this.

You may want to do some more research before doing anything more.
For some reason removing the lower carrier on a Mazzer grinder seems to be a source of grief.
And a much talked about topic on the web.
thom8143 wrote: ... tip on the search function ...
You're welcome.
It is the most important source of knowledge here at HB.

Best,

CIV

User avatar
trumz

#15: Post by trumz »

civ wrote:Hmmm ....
NO.
Don't.
I have a Cimbali Junior Max and when I have to remove the carrier to clean it, I usually block it from turning using that same method.

But NOT by using a metal rod or a screwdriver or anything metallic or hard enough to damage the cast aluminium the chamber is made of or the brass carrier itself.

I use something made from hardish plastic or even a small piece of wood.
Nothing big and you just want wedge something in the small space between one of the carrier's fins and the side of the grinding chamber as you try to move the screw, that will be enough to block it.
Yes if you use plastic or wood you're less likely to dent the fins but I imagine they can still snap if you really lean into it.

Marcelnl
Supporter ♡

#16: Post by Marcelnl »

leaning into it and snapping off a 'fin' takes some grunt...oil and time, some heat and a bit of coercion by blocking the carrier with a piece of wood and an allen key with some leverage ( so not the T shaped tiny Allen Keys), should work...
LMWDP #483

ira
Supporter ♡

#17: Post by ira »

It might help to freeze if also, the bolt is steel and the carrier is aluminum so the carrier will shrink more that the bolt in the freezer, or throw some dry ice on top of the carrier and let it cool it off, probably won't work, but trying is basically free.

Ira

Marmot

#18: Post by Marmot »

I think you have to loosen the bolt by turning clockwise in your case. I have read that you always have to loosen it in the direction the burr is spinning and your burr looks like it is turning clockwise.
Why don't you contact the producer or a reseller? It might be worth a try so you don't tighten it further by accident :D

thom8143 (original poster)

#19: Post by thom8143 (original poster) »

Still has not budged. With heat, without heat, with penetrating oil, turning clockwise, turning counter-clockwise.

I am going to reach out to Mazzer and some others tomorrow to try and get a professional opinion on the subject.

@Marmot - the burr does indeed turn clockwise.

thom8143 (original poster)

#20: Post by thom8143 (original poster) »

Reached out to a couple places today and received a quick response from the people at La Marzocco USA.

They indicated that it is best to wedge the burr carrier through the coffee chute (as you all pointed out) and that the bolt is clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen.

So I at least know which direction is the correct way to turn :mrgreen:
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