Help identifying parts of Elba 2 E61

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
BenS
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#1: Post by BenS »

Hi There,

I'm looking to install a Quickmill Pulsor and adjustable OPV but am having trouble figuring out where to install - and generally identify some parts.

Attached is a diagram and some pics, hopefully someone here might be able to help with parts 1-5 and where an OPV and Pulsor should go?







**UPDATED BASED ON COMMENTS**


JRising
Team HB

#2: Post by JRising »

1: Bubbler Valve/ Priming Valve. (When the pressure is low, it leaks to the silicon hose, thus if the pump has air in it, the air bubbles out and lets the pump prime)

2: Just a T-Fitting, one side of it has the OPV on it, it can leak back to reservoir when the pressure in the plumbing is too high.

3: Another T-Fitting, this is where the Brew Circuit separates from the Boiler Circuit.

4: Boiler Fill Solenoid. A valve that opens when the machine tops up the level in the boiler.

5: Heat Exchanger Inlet. Where the water from the pump enters the heat exchanger, travels up a pipe inside the heat exchanger to the middle, and also the water returning from the head due to the thermo-siphon effect comes back into the heat exchanger (Outside of the injector pipe that puts the pump water to the center).

Additionally, I believe the brass hexagonal item between 2 and 3 isn't just a fitting, I bet that's your chack valve. It prevents the water from the high-pressure HX from being able to travel backward and get into the boiler water when the boiler fill solenoid opens.

Hope that helps. All HX machines are pretty much like this.

BenS (original poster)
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#3: Post by BenS (original poster) »

JRising wrote:Hope that helps.
That's awesome! Very helpful thank you.

So is the OPV (6) sitting under the HX inlet or sitting just before the fist T-Fitting in the photos? And how can I tell if it's adjustable?

I'm seeing 12 bars on a head-mounted manometer so keen to reduce puck pressure if possible.




JRising
Team HB

#4: Post by JRising »



What does the other end of this #6 look like?
I expect you have to take the hose off, unscrew the cap and then use a big flat screwdriver to adjust the threaded part inside, but I don't know if I can't see it.

If it's old, it's going to be seized and a screwdriver will chip away at the brass and make a mess. You'll want to take the whole OPV out of the machine and work with it in a vice using penetrant and two really good screwdrivers. If you're going to replace the rubber face anyway, you can resort to using heat. It will take patience to un-seize it. Once it's moving, clean it fully, lubricate the threads so you can hope it doesn't seize again, re-install it and set your max static pressure.

BenS (original poster)
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#5: Post by BenS (original poster) »

JRising wrote: What does the other end of this #6 look like?
I expect you have to take the hose off, unscrew the cap and then use a big flat screwdriver to adjust the threaded part inside...
Ah I see what you mean - see attached. So I can only adjust the OPV with the tube removed and no water or is the adjustment that hex nut on the outside?

And thanks for all your help, very much appreciated.


JRising
Team HB

#6: Post by JRising »

Yeah. That's the kind that you can't easily adjust, while it's running and keep things dry.

What's it adjusted to now? If you're sure you want to adjust it, I'd suggest taking it out of the machine and getting it cleaned up and moving easily so that it isn't fighting you while you try to adjust it in the machine with water getting everywhere.

BenS (original poster)
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#7: Post by BenS (original poster) »

JRising wrote:Yeah. That's the kind that you can't easily adjust, while it's running and keep things dry.
What's it adjusted to now?
I'm seeing 11.7 bar when pulling shots via a head manometer so keen to reduce it a bit - I often see channeling at the end of shots unless I grind coarser (despite WDT + distribution before tamping).
JRising wrote:If you're sure you want to adjust it, I'd suggest taking it out of the machine and getting it cleaned up and moving easily so that it isn't fighting you while you try to adjust it in the machine with water getting everywhere.
Good idea. So just to confirm, there's a screw on the rear. Therefore, I'd remove the hose, pull a shot and adjust - which will cause the over pressure water to squirt back into the case?

And is the reading from the head manometer good or is it best to adjust slightly higher (or lower)?

JRising
Team HB

#8: Post by JRising »

Correct, correct and correct.

If it's easy to work with that corner of the machine right at the edge of the sink, you may be able to use a dishcloth or something to keep it tidy.

BenS (original poster)
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#9: Post by BenS (original poster) »

JRising wrote:Correct, correct and correct. If it's easy to work with that corner of the machine right at the edge of the sink, you may be able to use a dishcloth or something to keep it tidy.
Started to look at this today but once I took off the hose, there's no screw inside (see pic). Adjustment must be done via the Hex nut going around the outside - yes? Will mark current 12 bars with a marker and give it a go.


BenS (original poster)
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#10: Post by BenS (original poster) »

Before going too far, just checking if I should see a change of pressure after adjusting this much (incase I'm doing it wrong)?

Have been using the Decent puck simulator with a head-mounted manometer incase that makes a difference.