Help identifying capacitor in Bonavita water heater

#1: Post by **selfsimilar** » March 12th, 2023, 2:42 pm

I was gifted a non-working Bonavita 1.7 L Digital Variable Temperature Gooseneck Kettle (BV382518V). It currently does nothing when plugged in, and upon inspection there's at least one obviously blown capacitor. Unfortunately, after cleaning I cannot identify the capacitor for replacement. If anyone could help me identify the capacitor I would deeply appreciate it.

The blown cap is at L2, just below the 'AWESOME' logo on the board.

Here are some other angles on the part.

Happy to provide any more information or pics that might help.

Thanks,
Colin

#2: Post by **canatto** » March 12th, 2023, 2:51 pm

Hi, L2 is most likely an inductor, and that's probably why it's labeled as L not C

#3: Post by **CoffeeCrawler** » March 12th, 2023, 3:37 pm

And without a schematic there's no way to identify the value.

#4: Post by **Marcelnl** » March 12th, 2023, 3:40 pm

agree L2 should be an inductor and it's inductance might be on the outer side. Measure if there is continuity/resistance with a digital multimeter, if there is conductance the inductor is likely not the issue.

while you are at it measure the resistance across the heating element, and apparently there is a fuse (at least in the model in the video;

#5: Post by **BaristaBoy E61** » March 12th, 2023, 3:49 pm

Marcelnl wrote:agree L2 should be an inductor and it's inductance might be on the outer side. Measure if there is continuity/resistance with a digital multimeter, if there is conductance the inductor is likely not the issue.

while you are at it measure the resistance across the heating element, and apparently there is a fuse;
video

+1

That board doesn't look like it's the problem if all the inductors are OK.
Look for an 'Open' thermal fuse that is the most likely source of the problem.

#6: Post by **danetrainer** » March 13th, 2023, 11:19 am

I took mine apart to get a pic of the label on L2
but it appears my much older model didn't have that in its design. Here's a pic just for your reference and although it's not "Awesome"

it still works! It's in storage these days since I have a Fellows Stagg.

#7: Post by **Pressino** » March 13th, 2023, 1:13 pm

I don't know whether or not that can is an inductor, though the L2 label certainly suggests that. The electrolytic cap-like design is fairly unusual for inductors, but they do make ones that look like that. Here's a picture of one:

https://www.eaton.com/br/en-us/skuPage. ... 181-R.html

I agree with those who suggest testing it and looking for other problems before replacing it.

#8: Post by **yakster** » March 13th, 2023, 1:50 pm

If it's an inductor, it will measure a low DC resistance with a voltmeter, or good continuity with a continuity check function. If it's a capacitor, it should measure high resistance or no continuity. A damaged inductor may "blow open" measuring a high resistance or no continuity. The shape of the part in the photo looks more like an inductor than a capacitor due to the ends being larger than the middle which typically happens because an inductor is made by winding wire around a plastic frame which is then covered by a wrapper and the ends of the frame give it a spool like shape.

#9: Post by **ira** » March 13th, 2023, 2:51 pm

The broken one does not seem to have a fuse on the board. But the components on the board seem to make little sense unless there are more components on the back or something connected. It's as if it's part of a power supply PCB. Is there more circuitry on the back or somewhere else?

#10: Post by **Nunas** » March 13th, 2023, 4:10 pm

Colin, your board has a varistor on it (RV1) as an inrush/transient prevention device. They sometimes fail open. Look for discoloration. For more detail, look here. https://www.utmel.com/blog/categories/r ... nd-testing