Fitting snapped and stuck in boiler - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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Randy G.

#11: Post by Randy G. »

When in college I worked in a busy auto repair center doing tires and batteries. When replacing batteries we often dealt with corroded hold down hardware. We took it into the bathroom and ran it under the hot water tap which was insanely hot. Then we repeatedly tapped the part on the edge of the heavy (cast iron?) sink. The few that this did not work on were usually because the threads on the male portion had been eaten away by the battery acid and all that was holding the nut in place was corrosion. A heat gun or hair dryer, a small hammer, and a brass of dense plastic rod slightly smaller than the ID of the boiler's fitting could work. Heat, tap, tap tap, heat, and repeat that a dozen times or so should be able to break the corrosion and then the pipe removal tools previously posted should work. Put some food-safe thick grease on the threads of the removal tool to catch any little metal bits that might be scraped off. My great grandma's schmaltz pot would be handy about now, no?
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DeuxInfuso

#12: Post by DeuxInfuso »

In addition to silicone grease, of course don't over tighten fittings, a common cause of broken parts and tears. It's hard to overcome gorilla instinct to tighten stuff too much... but pay attention, be gentle, tighen w/ less torque than steel parts. If it leaks tighten a little more... good practice is hand tight plus 1 or 2 sixths of a turn. 1/8 to 1/4 turn if Teflon, 1/6 to 1/3 turn if rubber. 1/6 turn if metal/metal Serto fitting. Sometimes it takes a little more, but you can always tighten a tad more if it leaks, right? Err on the side of less torque at first. And don't bother with thread locking compounds, a PITA to clean off later.
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PhilthyCoffee (original poster)

#13: Post by PhilthyCoffee (original poster) »

Thank you to all, I was able to get it off with a nipple extractor and no torch. Anyone know who supplies a brass version of this fitting, even if it's somewhat different from the original? I'll be looking to replace this one ASAP (it's the one I replaced the one that snapped with a couple years back)

Any ideas for a vacuum relief fitting that's on a 90 degree angle with a barbed fitting so I can run the drain out of the machine?


JRising
Team HB

#14: Post by JRising »

Keep the vacuum breaker vertical, because gravity allows it to fully open... But yes, you can get that style vacuum breaker with the barbed cap, it makes it a little taller. If that makes it too tall for your machine, then you'll have to do some custom copper tubing.

PhilthyCoffee (original poster)

#15: Post by PhilthyCoffee (original poster) replying to JRising »

Thank you so much