Faema Eurostar Ambassador Rebuild and Mod Journey - Page 4

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
JRising
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#31: Post by JRising »

I think the Imat manual for that sized boiler machines said 60 seconds. You can, of course, top it up with the water switch and go again.

strikeraj (original poster)
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#32: Post by strikeraj (original poster) »

TLDR: I am absolutely speechless about the previous owner........

So I got the Lelit 57mm gasket today and it fits perfectly into the groove of the group head, so I was really excited.
I tried the portafilter on and I could feel resistance at around 4 o'clock position, similar feeling to how a lelit Anna PF would lock (Note, the PF wings are worn by a millimeter and the locking ring ramp also got brass exposed. I thought it was just used a lot but later on I figured out why....)
When I put turn on brewing with the blinding disk, it is still either leaking down the side of the PF or spewing back up into the housing. So I was like ok... may be it has worn too much and PF needs to be installed tighter. Nope. Even moving it to 3 o'clock (as far as I could reasonably move), it is still leaking.
That does not make any sense at all!

At this point, I start thinking am I getting too much pressure. I took the OPV return line out of the tank. Nothing was coming out from it. Looking at that tube in more detail, it looks like it has been dry for years. So I took that line off and start opening up the OPV.
Lo and behold, the valve is stuck shut by scale!!

This is what I picture the previous owner did..... one day he noticed the leaking, he just put all his might to try and lock the PF, wearing out all the chrome and deformed the wing, and still could not solve the leak. Little did he know that it was his OPV valve stuck shut, so the PF/Gasket interface is seeing FULL 15BAR of pump pressure!!!!!!





So now... I desperately need to build the PF pressure gage so I can set the OPV properly before I can pull any shot. I will need to live with the 4 o'clock lock for a while until I can get a new locking ring and PF......

JRising
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#33: Post by JRising »

That portafilter is common to Imat machines that I can think of, Unless they have "Pro" in their name (Family Pro or Faema Professional et.al. have 59mm portafilters)... You might find another "parts machine" for a reasonable price somewhere.

If your current portafilter does NOT have that little chunk cut out of it directly opposite the handle, use it as your permanent portagauge. Just take off the spout and drill a 1/8 BSPP thread up the middle (or whatever gauge or fitting you want to go with).

If it does have that chunk cut out, you might want to look for a better portafilter that will fit (I have no idea where you'd find it). Again, parts machines for the win. If you can buy it for $50, take a part you need and sell it for $45, you win, so does the next guy.

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baldheadracing
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#34: Post by baldheadracing »

I don't think too much pressure is the culprit. I have two machines with no OPV - one is the Mokita that I mentioned previously, the other is an Elektra Semiautomatica. They both slam the puck with full pump pressure with a blind basket. Neither leaks. As an aside, I just looked, and my Mokita's portafilter has no exposed brass on the lugs (despite being 25 years old).

Here's a replacement Lelit PF head (in Canada), but it does have the notches cut out as JRising mentions: https://coffeeaddicts.ca/products/lelit ... ilter-head (What are these notches for anyhow?)

Bottomless PF's seem more available; here's one in Mississauga: https://www.espressoplanet.com/coffee-a ... ilter.html
-"Good quality brings happiness as you use it" - Nobuho Miya, Kamasada

Alan Frew
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#35: Post by Alan Frew »

Lock the pf in as tight as possible. Examine the chrome group collar with a strong light, look for a horizontal crack in the body of the collar. New collar part no. is MC052. If there's no crack, you probably need a new portafilter body MC001 from a Lelit dealer. Portafilter notch is for easy flat lipped basket removal, it has no effect on leaking.

Alan
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strikeraj (original poster)
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#36: Post by strikeraj (original poster) »

@JRising the PF has that cutout. I have ordered this bottomless PF from bluestar coffee and waiting for it to arrive. But yea, I will definitely keep an eye out for a $50 parts machine lol

@baldheadracing that is interesting.... I really dunno what the previous owner did to the machine

@Alan Frew Thanks for the note! I am going to try that and check for crack. I will test with a couple shims with the new PF first. If that is not enough to fix the problem, I will order a new collar. Luckily Faema actually has that in stock

This is what I got today.... Found an old lab grade PID controller ($400+ new) and SSR in the scrap pile at work today, I guess I will be doing PID mod lol
And yes, that is going to be a big ass PF pressure gauge


strikeraj (original poster)
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#37: Post by strikeraj (original poster) »

So.... the PF gauge is not working... I was trying to sandwich a large o-ring between the bottom of basket and the PF but it still gives up at around 1 bar. Unless I can find a 57mm PF WITHOUT that stupid notch, I will need to plumb in the gauge after the pump. BSP brass fitting seems to be quite difficult to find

But before I get there, is there a way to ballpark the pressure by taste/sound of pump/etc?

strikeraj (original poster)
Posts: 91
Joined: 1 year ago

#38: Post by strikeraj (original poster) »

@JRising
So I was testing with the PLANET ESPRESSO BLEND BEANS from espresso planet. My last shot is 12g in, 26g out in 25 second. I think I am getting there but the shot still tasted a bit too sour. Just wondering if you know that is just the nature of that bean or there is something I can adjust?

strikeraj (original poster)
Posts: 91
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#39: Post by strikeraj (original poster) »

Update: so the machine has been working well and making espresso in the office has been fun (I actually hosted an "espresso lunch" and pulled 12 shots within a hour, including steaming 2 milk drinks). Been really happy with it.

While I am still slowly working on designing the 3D print housing for the PID and double SSR, I ran into a original eurostar without the grinder on kijiji which has been in storage for years. Tested that pump was vibrating (but not sucking up water, probably bad seal or ball as @Todd mentioned earlier), and heating element is warming (shut off quickly after feeling heat in boiler, as there was no water), I paid $70 for it and took it back for parts (mainly for the PF and locking collar that is not worn to sh** like the one I have).

Findings:
1. This old version does not even have a dispersion plate! it was 4 hole at the bottom of the boiler going straight into shower screen! (That was one piece I was thinking I may be able to salvage lol)
2. Not sure what the last owner did but the boiler flanges are warped, and the 4 bolts are slightly bent (still manage to pull it apart)
3. The center pipe that goes through the boiler is broken at the thread where it threads into the lower half

Questions:
1. How do I remove the pump from the housing? It is on two rubber L brackets, that are mounted to the housing with those plastic push pins. Do I just pull hard or is there a smarter way to take it out? (The other side of the push pin is in an awkward location, couldnt really fit a pair of pliers in to press on it)
2. How do I test the heating element to make sure it is not shorted to ground? Do i just need to submerge it in water and test continuity between either pole and the water??
3. If the brass upper and lower housing flanges are warped, what is the best way to straighten them?

Thanks!

JRising
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#40: Post by JRising »

strikeraj wrote:@JRising
So I was testing with the PLANET ESPRESSO BLEND BEANS from espresso planet. My last shot is 12g in, 26g out in 25 second. I think I am getting there but the shot still tasted a bit too sour. Just wondering if you know that is just the nature of that bean or there is something I can adjust?
Possibly the machine is brewing below 94C. Be sure the portafilter is fully warmed in the group before filling the basket with your coffee prep. And if you start your brew immediately after the element light has gone out (that's when the boiler water is hottest) is it still brewing sour?