Faema Ariete Restoration Project

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
archie

#1: Post by archie »

HI Everybody.

So I bought a Faema Ariete to restore and am afraid I've bitten off a bit more than I can chew.
First step would be breaking it down and then start with the boiler.

Also already I would like to ask some questions.
As the machine didn't come with a motor or pump and the electrical is missing. Would it be possible to change the machine to a vibration pump?

Looking at what is left of the wires the machine runs on 3phase power? as there is only 1 short piece of wire left. Is there somewhere an electrical schema? I've looked at some parts-vendors online but couldn't find any. Hopefully I can source the electrical parts...

Some images



JRising
Team HB

#2: Post by JRising »

archie wrote:HI Everybody.
Would it be possible to change the machine to a vibration pump?
Sure, anything's possible. I would strongly suggest sticking with a rotary pump and motor unless you're planning on not even plumbing it in, no sense in defeating it's pre-infusion functionality.

archie (original poster)

#3: Post by archie (original poster) »

Ah clear. Thanks JRising. Im having some reading to do on the difference.

archie (original poster)

#4: Post by archie (original poster) »

Short update as I didn't have a lot of time the last few weeks. Did remove the Boiler Flange and the rusted bolts. used the method from Restoration of a 1964 2nd Series Faema President [Finished] with the vice. This worked good on most bolts and gave a lot of control. After pressing them out a few whacks with a hammer did the rest. The aluminum rings did not survive but were already broken when I got the machine.



Inside is only black oxidized and no scale.

next thing to solve would be this:

User avatar
IamOiman
Team HB

#5: Post by IamOiman »

The boiler inside looks pretty good! The heating element studs look pretty eaten from rust, so those will need to come out if you want to reuse the boiler lid. Since it is likely the studs will shear off before they unscrew it is recommended a nut is welded on the stud to assist in removal. This strengthens the stud and allows you to use a wrench during removal. Heating it up with a torch will assist in loosening the threads from thermal shock.

You can still purchase aluminum rings, gaskets, and even a new boiler lid from a variety of parts sellers.
-Ryan
Using a spice grinder violates the Geneva Convention
LMWDP #612

archie (original poster)

#6: Post by archie (original poster) »

IamOiman wrote:The heating element studs look pretty eaten from rust, so those will need to come out if you want to reuse the boiler lid. Since it is likely the studs will shear off before they unscrew it is recommended a nut is welded on the stud to assist in removal. This strengthens the stud and allows you to use a wrench during removal. Heating it up with a torch will assist in loosening the threads from thermal shock.
Thanks!! But are you sure the studs are screw-in? As on the exploded view they are not a part. The welding is a good tip!

User avatar
civ

#7: Post by civ »

Hello:
archie wrote: ... are you sure the studs are screw-in?


Best,

CIV

archie (original poster)

#8: Post by archie (original poster) »

civ wrote:Hello:


image

Best,

CIV
:oops: