Euro 2000 - Rebuilding after sitting for 5 years?

#1: Post by **WWBeagle** » September 2nd, 2013, 10:56 am

Good morning

Would appreciate some advice. Is it worth rebuilding?

Just got a Euro 2000 in a garage sale, has not been used for years, has many year old water in it. 2005 model.

spent the night reading tons of posts. most are from 2010 or earlier. I have tried pm'ing some of the old posters
but not sure if they got through. All I know about the Euro2000 is what I have read here. and mark prince's review from 2003 on CG.

it does not have the funny curved steam wand - I have seen Stefano's post on issues with valve parts.

while my cost was minimal, curious if its worth my time and money for parts to revive?

thanks

#2: Post by **another_jim** » September 2nd, 2013, 6:45 pm

It's not much different from the more basic semi-commercial E61 machines made now, which cost from $1100 to $1500 dollars new, and maybe 2/3rds that used. If your purchase and fixing costs combined are less than $500; you will be ahead of the game, whether you keep it or sell it.

September 4th, 2013, 9:01 pm

Hi Jim

Wow, hearing from an oracle! Thanks so much for replying.

Got the machine today. Well, I was looking for fix up project -- this is NOT it. Looks in new condition. Bought by a high end furniture store in 2004 and then a Peet's moved in next door. It has sat unused for at least 3-5 or more years. Kept in a warm kitchen. Still water in the boiler. As you can see from the photos, it was converted to plumb in. The old Euro2000 literature shows a plumbed in version. It was on Denver city water, no softener.

Seems to be a decent (lower end) unit - nice group. SS sheet-metal is not very thick. This is no Rocket or QM

SO, how do you restore to operation a ten year old espresso machine that has been siting unused almost all its life?

Any idea on a suggested plan of attach. This will be used in a weekend residence.

1. Should I do a simple descale first?

2. Disassemble and descale?

3. Or just hook up to water and see what happens?

4. parts I should order from you immediately, (the group gasket of course)

Thanks!

#4: Post by **another_jim** » September 4th, 2013, 9:07 pm

It's either a better or a worse deal than I thought, since it's a rotary machine. If it works, you did really well. If you have to replace the pump/motor, it'll be expensive. I'd just fire it up and see what happens. Does it heat, does the pump run, does the autofill work, do the pstat and SSR work. No point even asking until you try these things

September 4th, 2013, 9:37 pm

Jim

I do not think its rotary. It appears to be the Fluid-O-Tech vibe pump 70 watt pump. I had never seen one before but research shows it was used years ago in small semi commercial machines.

http://www.espressoparts.com/W25461

There is a good post on the pump here: Fluid-O-Tech Vibe Pump Dissection: A Photo Album

I tempted to disconnect the heating element, turn on and do a good water flush. But something tells me with out heat pressure, nothing will come out of the water wand.

September 4th, 2013, 10:49 pm

Oops, you're right. Easier to replace if it's shot; but loud.

http://users.rcn.com/erics/ · #7: Post by **erics** » September 4th, 2013, 11:01 pm

I would electrically disconnect the heating element while you are going through this initial adventure.

Syphon out the existing water via the water level probe and refill with enough water to fill the boiler about halfway. Clean the probe, as necessary, while it is out. Inspect for some scaling using this: Checking an E61 Espresso Machine for Scale

That pressure-regulating gizmo on the FOT pump's suction might require a little homework.

September 4th, 2013, 11:28 pm

Thank Eric and Jim

I assume I need to carefully measure the existing probe depth to recreate with I reinsert. OR does the probe and fitting come out together?

erics wrote:That pressure-regulating gizmo on the FOT pump's suction might require a little homework.

I am assuming the pump requires reduced line pressure on the suction. The machine was attached to a small Watts regulator set very low. I was going to see what the setting is, but would guess its 25psi or less. IIRC i have read something about another Italian lower end machine plumbed in machine that required a regulator set for 25-35 psi.

September 29th, 2013, 10:19 pm

WWBeagle wrote:Jim
I tempted to disconnect the heating element, turn on and do a good water flush. But something tells me with out heat pressure, nothing will come out of the water wand.

Sure, but you can bypass the fill-level sensor and allow the pump to send water out through the steam wand.

September 29th, 2013, 10:25 pm

I've got 2 Euro 2000s, one that was my daily machine for the last 2 years, and another that I'm in the middle of refurbing. The 'daily machine' has been reliable (until this Thursday) and consistent, after allowing for normal maintenance (pressurestat replacement, replacing gaskets, etc.). Both machines showed issues from extended high heat inside when I first got them--flakey insulation, plastic deterioriating on all crimp connectors, switches, lamps, etc.

I'd suggest insulating the boiler to reduce the heat inside the machine.

It looks like your machine has already had a lot of the wiring replaced...I see new switches, and the pressurestat has been relocated in comparison to my machines and other Euro 2000s I've seen. However, there seem to have been several changes in the Euro 2000 design during it's manufacture.

In general, parts are pretty common, with a lot of overlap with the Isomac Tea. I see your machine has non-stock water and steam wands, but the original valves. The steam & hot water valves unfortunately have Euro 2000-specific gaskets and valves, which seem to be out of stock. Over-tightening will cause the water/steam to leak.