ECM Synchronika at 2 bar pump pressure - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
JRising
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#11: Post by JRising »

I'm now pretty certain that your pump is not turning. If so either the pump itself is seized or the capacitor for the pump motor is dead. The side panels of the Sync come off with the removal ov the central screw at the top of each side panel... If you can see the rear end of your pump's motor, you should see if it's turning (I believe rear of motor is toward front of machine behind left panel I don't have one in front of me).

Livan M (original poster)
Posts: 11
Joined: 2 months ago

#12: Post by Livan M (original poster) »

Hoping I did that correctly. I do have the panels off and will check that now.

Livan M (original poster)
Posts: 11
Joined: 2 months ago

#13: Post by Livan M (original poster) »

JRising looks like I didn't respond correctly before with the video. Trying it again now.

[youtube] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unNPvsJq6lk[/youtube]

On the motor it does not look to be spinning.

[youtube] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZFf17p6LqU[/youtube]

JRising
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#14: Post by JRising »

Okay, don't worry about the water underneath until you remove the pump and see why it won't run... (You might find that it's the pump itself leaking somewhere once you have a chance to inspect it.

Don't worry too much about the leaks through the port behind the E61 drain, until you have the pump working and have been able to properly set the pump's max pressure and the expansion valve's relief pressure... But if you want to know where it's coming from pinch the various silicone tubes. When you stop the drip by pinching a hose, that hose is carrying the leak, follow it to see which valve it leads to.

Take the pump off from the motor

(Loosen this screw until that collar clamp is very loose and can be slid away from the motor onto the neck of the pump)
The nice flexible hoses will let you move the pump back away from the motor and rest it safely wherever it is comfortable.

Now does your motor run nicely, or does it just hum? If the motor does run, the pump's seized. If the motor doesn't run, it's probably just a dead capacitor (The greyish tube beside the motor).

Livan M (original poster)
Posts: 11
Joined: 2 months ago

#15: Post by Livan M (original poster) »

JRising, going to try the above shortly. Will let you know how it goes and post a video if possible. Thanks again for your help.

Livan M (original poster)
Posts: 11
Joined: 2 months ago

#16: Post by Livan M (original poster) »

JRising, looks like it is a seized pump. I removed it and the motor is spinning just fine. I will remove the pump but am not sure if any of the piping should be removed as well or first. If it is just the pump I can see how to do it by removing two screws. Now is the pump serviceable or will I need to just buy a new one? TY, Livan.

[youtube] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDWAxy_AMOU[/youtube]





The two that I am pointing out seem to release the pump and is my plan.

Livan M (original poster)
Posts: 11
Joined: 2 months ago

#17: Post by Livan M (original poster) »

JRising, took the pump out at different points then originally sent but it did come out easily. First spins on it were really tight and then it freed up. I am soaking it in Dezcal and hot water for about 15 min and then will give it a few turns. Seems like both Clive and WLL are out of stock on the pump so I will need to see if I can find it by pump name. In the meantime it doesn't look like there is anything else I can do to service the pump itself?


[youtube] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDfJEImWu4E[/youtube]

Nunas
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#18: Post by Nunas »

For the little trouble it takes, before buying a new pump or trying to replace parts on the old one, I'd put the pump back in the machine and give it a try. Now that you've freed up the pump, it will likely turn. If it turns, then you're probably good to go. The issue might simply have been that the machine sat for long enough that dried crud built up in the impeller. The motor wouldn't have enough torque to overcome the stuck impeller, but now it isn't stuck. If it does produce pressure, run quite a few shots through it with no portafilter; to give it a good flush and free it up some more.

Livan M (original poster)
Posts: 11
Joined: 2 months ago

#19: Post by Livan M (original poster) »

Thank you Nunas I agree. It was quite easy to get it on and off. I plan on upgrading the PID and that looks a bit more involved but doable. I do have a new set of issues that I haven't been able to start researching but you may know off the top of your head. After the pump freed up the pump pressure shot up to past 12 bar. I tried setting it at the pump under the machine but it wouldn't come down so I regulated it at the expansion valve. The issue is that now it goes right up ton9 bar with little hesitation at the 8 bar mark but it is shooting water from the relief bar like a water spigot. I am not sure how to regulate the expansion valve up top to match pressure at the pump setting. Currently the pump screw is all the way in which would be the lowest pressure I believe.

[youtube] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgWFaM0gcO8[/youtube]

Nunas
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#20: Post by Nunas »

Livan M wrote:Thank you Nunas I agree. It was quite easy to get it on and off. I plan on upgrading the PID and that looks a bit more involved but doable. I do have a new set of issues that I haven't been able to start researching but you may know off the top of your head. After the pump freed up the pump pressure shot up to past 12 bar. I tried setting it at the pump under the machine but it wouldn't come down so I regulated it at the expansion valve. The issue is that now it goes right up ton9 bar with little hesitation at the 8 bar mark but it is shooting water from the relief bar like a water spigot. I am not sure how to regulate the expansion valve up top to match pressure at the pump setting. Currently the pump screw is all the way in which would be the lowest pressure I believe.
[youtube] video[/youtube]
You're on the right track. One of the common ways to screw up a Synchronika is to mess with that valve with the big screw. It happens because it looks and acts a lot like the valve on a vibe pump machine, where such valve is indeed the correct way to set the pump pressure. You want to set this valve to open at a pressure higher than the highest pump pressure. From memory, I think ECM sets it at 14 bar. Use the pump bypass screw (on the bottom) to increase the pump pressure with a blind basket to 14 bar. Now, run the machine and set the over pressure valve so that it just opens at this pressure. Then, set your pump back to normal ~ 10 bar. Water will now exit the valve only if something bad should happen to the machine with results in a very high pressure, at which point the valve will bleed off the excess. Hopefully, John is still lurking here; if he has a better way to do this adjustment, then take his advice over mine :wink: