ECM Synchronika - 5 Year Maintenance
-
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 7 years ago
Hi everyone- my ECM Synchronika needs some TLC after 5 years, so I thought I'd check here for suggestions so I can be more efficient once I open her up.
About 1.5 years ago I installed the high pressure steam upgrade. In general, I am very lax on maintenance and cleaning and only do it when it starts to impact making my coffee. I have replaced the group gasket and shower screen.
I have never descaled, but I have only ever used Crystal Geyser bottled water in it. If The Internet is to be believed, I shouldn't need to descale. Last time I had the group head open I didn't see any sign of scale, but when I open it later today, that could of course be a different story.
The machine gets used 3 or 4 times a day, primarily my morning quad shot Americano (and, I would think that consistently taking this much water from the steam tank would result in less scaling there). I leave it on probably about 10 hours a day on average.
I have two things going on:
The water wand has suddenly become very loose. I would think this is just a matter of tightening the appropriate bolt in the back.
But there's also now a consistent light steam coming from what I think is called the Lower Discharge valve on the group head (the one that drips into the drip pan). Does this just point to a normal deep cleaning, or does it suggest scale buildup?
Any other maintenance I ought to do once I have it open?
Thanks,
Eric
About 1.5 years ago I installed the high pressure steam upgrade. In general, I am very lax on maintenance and cleaning and only do it when it starts to impact making my coffee. I have replaced the group gasket and shower screen.
I have never descaled, but I have only ever used Crystal Geyser bottled water in it. If The Internet is to be believed, I shouldn't need to descale. Last time I had the group head open I didn't see any sign of scale, but when I open it later today, that could of course be a different story.
The machine gets used 3 or 4 times a day, primarily my morning quad shot Americano (and, I would think that consistently taking this much water from the steam tank would result in less scaling there). I leave it on probably about 10 hours a day on average.
I have two things going on:
The water wand has suddenly become very loose. I would think this is just a matter of tightening the appropriate bolt in the back.
But there's also now a consistent light steam coming from what I think is called the Lower Discharge valve on the group head (the one that drips into the drip pan). Does this just point to a normal deep cleaning, or does it suggest scale buildup?
Any other maintenance I ought to do once I have it open?
Thanks,
Eric
-
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 3690
- Joined: 9 years ago
I doubt the light steam leak is due to scaling; it sounds more like you need to buy an e61 service kit. This is a fairly easy DIY project. As for the loose wand, I'd just tighten it up. To check for scaling on the brew side, you can remove the mushroom and take a look. On the steam side, given your frequent use of hot water, I doubt there's any. But if you want to be sure, borrow or buy one of those cheap borescopes on Amazon, pull the water level sensor and shove the borescope in there to have a look.
- Jeff
- Team HB
- Posts: 6941
- Joined: 19 years ago
Crystal Geyser varies by location. Even here near San Francisco, on the same shelf, in the same store, on the same day, some bottles are the "good" one and some the less good one.
Best bottled water for espresso machine
Should you need to descale, I find citric acid from a Mediterranean food shop (just a and some 1/4" food-safe clear tubing for a siphon useful. Some PTFE plumber's tape (yellow is thicker than white) can be useful to reseal fittings you might remove to fill/drain the boilers.
Depending on how much water you've been drawing from the hot water tap, the steam boiler probably can use a drain and flush.
Edit: Nothing special about citric acid from Mediterranean food stores, past that they tend to carry citric acid in their spice section in reasonable quantities at a reasonable price.
Best bottled water for espresso machine
Should you need to descale, I find citric acid from a Mediterranean food shop (just a and some 1/4" food-safe clear tubing for a siphon useful. Some PTFE plumber's tape (yellow is thicker than white) can be useful to reseal fittings you might remove to fill/drain the boilers.
Depending on how much water you've been drawing from the hot water tap, the steam boiler probably can use a drain and flush.
Edit: Nothing special about citric acid from Mediterranean food stores, past that they tend to carry citric acid in their spice section in reasonable quantities at a reasonable price.
-
- Team HB
- Posts: 3735
- Joined: 5 years ago
The drain on your E61 head leaks steam constantly with the lever down? This indicates that your Brew Valve (The uppermost of the three in the head) is leaking. I suggest replacing all three if one is that bad, but have a look at them and decide.elsol wrote: But there's also now a consistent light steam coming from what I think is called the Lower Discharge valve on the group head (the one that drips into the drip pan).
-
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 378
- Joined: 4 years ago
I just serviced my Pro 700. Pretty much the same machine. I also use Crystal Geyser from Weed Cali, no scale in my machine and I've been using the water for a long time.
The water leaking is from the vrv valve. There is a small O ring in the valve on top of the steam boiler. It either cracks or breaks completely. It will cause a non stop slow flow of water through the port at the bottom of your group head near the tray. You can buy the O rings at Lowes fo a couple bucks for a pack of 5. While fixing this issue, the barbed tee that holds the silicone tubing together so the water can exit that port will prob need replacing too. They get super brittle and will break when you are fixing the O ring. You can buy this too at Lowes. It's a 1/4" 3 way barbed tee.
Some will say to replace the vrv valve completely, not necessary normally, just add the new O ring after cleaning the area where it seats into the valve.
All in all it's a very easy fix, 15 minutes to do.
The water leaking is from the vrv valve. There is a small O ring in the valve on top of the steam boiler. It either cracks or breaks completely. It will cause a non stop slow flow of water through the port at the bottom of your group head near the tray. You can buy the O rings at Lowes fo a couple bucks for a pack of 5. While fixing this issue, the barbed tee that holds the silicone tubing together so the water can exit that port will prob need replacing too. They get super brittle and will break when you are fixing the O ring. You can buy this too at Lowes. It's a 1/4" 3 way barbed tee.
Some will say to replace the vrv valve completely, not necessary normally, just add the new O ring after cleaning the area where it seats into the valve.
All in all it's a very easy fix, 15 minutes to do.
Family, coffee and fun.
-
- Posts: 432
- Joined: 3 years ago
Based on your description, I think you might mean the vacuum relief valve?Plinyyounger wrote:The water leaking is from the opv valve.
I recently had this replaced and it made a world of difference. Machine stopped hissing out the boiler, stopped spitting into the drip tray, cycled the steam boiler far less often, and the steam power seems much greater as well.
-
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 378
- Joined: 4 years ago
^^^^ Yep, you are right, fixed my post.
Family, coffee and fun.
-
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 3690
- Joined: 9 years ago
I don't think it's the vacuum relief valve. Eric clearly states that it's coming from the bottom of the group head.
This would indicate that he needs a replacement seal in the group. My suggestion earlier in the thread (and one from another member) is that he obtain a kit of seals and replace the lot. VRV leaks come out a separate vent just above the drip tray.But there's also now a consistent light steam coming from what I think is called the Lower Discharge valve on the group head (the one that drips into the drip pan). Does this just point to a normal deep cleaning, or does it suggest scale buildup?
-
- Posts: 432
- Joined: 3 years ago
I was a bit confused from his description. He said lower discharge, but then references "the one that drips into drip pan", which threw me off, since water can come out of two places and land in the drip tray.
In any event, the broader point of "any other maintenance should be done while it's open" is where the vacuum relief valve consideration is relevant. After five years, if this hasn't been done recently, it's worth replacing the o-ring ($0.10) or the whole unit ($20).
In any event, the broader point of "any other maintenance should be done while it's open" is where the vacuum relief valve consideration is relevant. After five years, if this hasn't been done recently, it's worth replacing the o-ring ($0.10) or the whole unit ($20).
-
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 3690
- Joined: 9 years ago
AgreedAuctor wrote:I was a bit confused from his description. He said lower discharge, but then references "the one that drips into drip pan", which threw me off, since water can come out of two places and land in the drip tray. In any event, the broader point of "any other maintenance should be done while it's open" is where the vacuum relief valve consideration is relevant. After five years, if this hasn't been done recently, it's worth replacing the o-ring ($0.10) or the whole unit ($20).