ECM Elektronika not heating

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
PJMac
Posts: 17
Joined: 4 years ago

#1: Post by PJMac »

Hello everyone!
I have an ECM Elektronica that I bought used maybe 3 years ago. About a year after I bought it I have replaced the Gicar and added the SSR kit to take the high current switching out of the Gicar
I am now having an issue that started with a loss in boiler pressure and I have determined the element isn't getting current. I checked the resistance of the element and it was around 10 ohms. The SSR is putting out 120vac. The high limit switches have continuity but there isn't 120v going through them. Does it sound like the Gicar again? It seems to me the circuit starts at the SSR goes through the high limit switches then the element and back to the Gicar. Do you think I missed anything?

thanks

Jerry

JRising
Team HB
Posts: 3735
Joined: 5 years ago

#2: Post by JRising »

Does the LED on the SSR come on to indicate that the Gicar is giving it a signal?

If the red LED is on, the SSR should be closed. Your wording of the electrical testing you've done may be confusing me a little.

Before the following: Please don't work on or test a live machine unless you're absolutely certain you know what you're going to do and know it's the correct way to do it.

You said "The SSR is putting out 120vac.", so I assume that means that from either of the load leads at the SSR (Probably a brown and a black) to body ground you're seeing ~120VAC. How about from each of those SSR load leads to the BLUE side of the element? Should be 120VAC.

Another way to find the "open" part of the circuit would be to measure VAC right at the element. Should be ~120VAC. If it is, the element should be heating perfectly. If it's less than 10VAC, keep one voltmeter lead at the blue element terminal and move the other lead, tracing back along the black conductor to each component along the way. If you make it all the way back to the Gicar, then you can start moving downstream along the blue conductor, component to component until you find the interruption.

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BaristaBoy E61
Posts: 3549
Joined: 9 years ago

#3: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

Might it be a defective boiler temperature probe? Your heater element tests OK at ~10-ohms.
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

PJMac (original poster)
Posts: 17
Joined: 4 years ago

#4: Post by PJMac (original poster) »

I'll have a look in a bit and post my results
thanks for the ideas