E61 lower post wear - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
User avatar
slybarman (original poster)

#11: Post by slybarman (original poster) »

Randy G. wrote: The cam's shaft also has a lot of black buildup on it.
what is best for removing? backflush detergent or?

User avatar
BaristaBoy E61

#12: Post by BaristaBoy E61 »

cafeIKE wrote:I can't imagine how much wear the cam must have to 'sneeze'.
I think a slight clarification might help here.

"...wear of the drain valve stem at the cam" - Not the cam itself. Just the square, vertical, lever post up against the cam, if you will.
"You didn't buy an Espresso Machine - You bought a Chemistry Set!"

Davi-L

#13: Post by Davi-L »

My quick mill e61 failed to drain, the problem after a cleaning and repair was that there were two, not one white teflon gaskets at the bottom of the head. One fails to drop out and if you put a second one on it... It does not work as desired.
D.

User avatar
Randy G.

#14: Post by Randy G. »

slybarman wrote:what is best for removing? backflush detergent or?
The black (dirty) part of the shaft can be cleaned with any sort of cleaner including Cafiza, Simple Green, and even OxyClean (unscented of course). You can use a nylon scrubbing pad as well. Be sure to use a bit of lube on the two sealing gasket/washers through which the shaft passes when assembling.
www.EspressoMyEspresso.com
* 22nd Anniversary 2000-2022 *

DefaultIT

#15: Post by DefaultIT »

It should be noted that, per the original question, that square post has a conical chamfer machined into it; actual wear will be evident by a slope in the top (circular) face that the cam interfaces with. It is square to the sides of the post when new...will show sort of a "trough" as the cam begins to wear the middle, and will eventually show a gently curved slope.... I would guess that as long as you can still see some of that original chamfer, there is enough stem length to actuate the valve.

You are likely to have functional problems from dry/cracked sealing gaskets (failing to fully CLOSE) long before that brass post wears down enough for failure to open.... And in my experience, while that post technically unthreads to allow replacement of the gasket, you are much more likely to break the threads off then successfully remove the post, and will end up replacing the entire plunger assembly anyway.

★ Helpful

User avatar
slybarman (original poster)

#16: Post by slybarman (original poster) replying to DefaultIT »

interesting. maybe the original chamfer on mine is just somewhat uneven then.