E61 grouphead maintenance - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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Randy G.
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Joined: 17 years ago

#11: Post by Randy G. »

For more detail on the E-61 group, see these two articles on my website:
How-To 18 - Simple Lubrication of the E-61 Group
How-To 19 - Overhauling and Lubricating the E-61 Group
EspressoMyEspresso.com - 2000-2023 - a good run, its time is done

Eres
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Joined: 4 years ago

#12: Post by Eres »

I like this guy:
...and I put a little bit of grease...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb7Gub7r1DI
edit: seems like can't post the video from specific time, jump to 4:44

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bluesman
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Joined: 10 years ago

#13: Post by bluesman »

Nunas wrote:Don't be in a big hurry to do a chemical backflush unless there's a reason to do it. Tear the group down and inspect first. I have found that daily plain water flushes are sufficient. I was having a lot of trouble with a stiff lever, squeaking, and so on when I did a monthly chem backflush. Then I stopped using chem altogether. The last tear-down showed no accumulation of crud, and only the lightest accumulation of brownish film which I could wipe right off with a damp cloth. Ditto for the shower screen. Bear in mind that backflushing chem does not remove scale, just oils. I feed my machine, kettles, and such with 25 ppm TDS water and never have any scale (knock on wood).
Interesting! I only put a pinch of Ascaso backflush cleaner in the blind basket, and I make sure it's all dissolved before inserting the PF. I haven't had any stiffness, noise etc. I also pull the screen weekly to soak, brush, and rinse out the inside. Since I backflush with water every day, I was amazed to see brownish discoloration of the hot water in which I put it to soak - it looked clean. So every Saturday, I soak it in a small dish with a pinch of the Ascaso. Then I swirl, rinse, repeat until the rinse water's clear.

Bluenoser
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Joined: 6 years ago

#14: Post by Bluenoser »

If I clean thoroughly with 3g of Cafiza, then the lever mechanism is always stiff and squeaky. This has nothing to do with the group and so I'd not dismantle that. The lever rotates over two brass 'cubes'. When they are ultra clean, there is quite a bit of friction between the lever and the brass on my Pro500. Many people recommend dismantling the lever assembly and lubing the brass tops with Molykote after every chem clean. I used to do that. And it works super.. makes it like butter. But I dislike removing the mechanism and ensuring I don't damage any seals or O-rings. I now just use a few drops of olive oil and do a water-oil back flush 3 times to add a bit of lubrication until I get enough coffee oils to lube the lever. (I do this after the chem backflush routine).

Even at only 2 espressos a day, I find that after 2 months the water is relatively brown when I chem clean, so I do it every 2-3 mo. I bought one of the nano IMS screens about a year ago and I clean that easily every few weeks by removing and just wiping it out. Just remember the "flat" side of the gasket goes towards the PF to make a good seal.

Marc01 (original poster)
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Joined: 4 years ago

#15: Post by Marc01 (original poster) »

Thanks to everyone for their input! I did successfully lubricate the cam. The most frustrating part was waiting for the group head to cool down. Next time, I will do the chemical backflush at night and lubricate first thing in the morning.

So far, I have done

1. Water backflushes daily
2. Drop the shower screen, Clean portafilter and basket every 1-3 days
3. Flushing the service boiler Monthly
4. Chem backflush after 2 months (Aiming for every 2-3 months depending on use)
5. Still have to learn about yearly maintenance

Thanks

Bluenoser
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Joined: 6 years ago

#16: Post by Bluenoser »

Sometimes the tank gets a bit slimy.. every 3-4 months.. when the water is mostly gone, II check it with my finger.. If slimy, I use some clorox spray to clean and rinse well..

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Jeff
Team HB
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#17: Post by Jeff »

Hydrogen peroxide (from a drug/grocery store) is another sanitizer that works well.

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bluesman
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#18: Post by bluesman »

While the screen is off, flush a few seconds and wipe the diffuser with a clean damp microfiber cloth. I also push the cloth into the gasket groove with the big end of a chopstick and wipe it out - this also cleans the PF threads. When cleaning surfaces that contact any amount of coffee (ground or liquid), I start with a fresh cloth, wipe, shift to a fresh area, wipe again, and repeat until the cloth comes away clean.

Do not use the same cloths to clean that you use to wipe the polished surfaces. Even one tiny piece of grit can scratch. I have white cloths for milk (wand & pitchers), brown for coffee, blue for polished pieces, and gray for general cleanup.

Nunas
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#19: Post by Nunas »

Do not use the same cloths to clean that you use to wipe the polished surfaces. Even one tiny piece of grit can scratch. I have white cloths for milk (wand & pitchers), brown for coffee, blue for polished pieces, and gray for general cleanup.
That's a really good idea. I use three different cloths but never thought of colour coding them.

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bluesman
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#20: Post by bluesman replying to Nunas »

The color code approach solved one of my biggest problems - even my wife can now keep them straight....."Brown looks like coffee and white looks like milk." And the cloths I use for our coffee equipment are totally different material and shape from the rest of our towels, so I no longer find my polishing cloths in the cleaning rag bin. :D