Crossland CC1 steam valve rebuild kit?

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.

#1: Post by dkny3939 »

My CC1 is leaking at the steam valve. Pantechnicon Design sells the steam valve rebuild kit: ... 1739726102

Has anyone done this repair? Can you point me to any documentation/tutorial on how to do this? I've taken the steam valve apart, and have some idea of how these parts fit together, would be nice to get more detailed instructions tho.

dkny3939 (original poster)

#2: Post by dkny3939 (original poster) »

Guess there aren't many CC1 users left on this forum. Pantechnicon advised to reach out directly to Bill Crossland for instructions, and so I did. Bill said this is the correct rebuild kit, and the components in the kit comprise of (vendor's website doesn't explain what's included):
2 EA O-Rings for steam wand
2 EA O-Rings for steam valve shaft
1 EA O-Ring for steam tip V1
1 EA O-Ring for steam tip V2
1 EA Steam Valve Seal V2

Bill said to rebuild the steam valve, I will only need to replace the 2 o-rings on the steam shaft, and the steam seal. But the v2 steam valve seal included in the kit will not fit my v1 steam valve . If I send him all valve components together he offered to upgrade the steam valve body to work with v2 at no cost. Now I must unscrew the steam valve body (part 22 in blow up diagram in manual) from water outlet(part 26). I'm not sure how to do that, am waiting to hear more from Bill.

I will update this thread with any progress for any CC1 users in the future. I know repair information is hard to come by with this machine, and that's a shame because it's otherwise really well made.

This is the steam shaft, you can see the two o-rings:

This is the steam seal, it's located inside the steam valve. One must separate the steam valve from the water outlet to access it, I'm not sure how to do that yet:


#3: Post by Mark5902 »

Thanks for this info. I'm going to do this repair soon myself and will keep this thread posted.

For others' info, I believe the CC1 I'm working with is a V1.0.
It has a brass steam valve shown here:

Other steam valves on other versions of this machine are:
Full chrome:
Half brass/half chrome (Looks like this is the V1.5) Help fix Crossland CC1 v1.5 with busted plastic pipe
Full brass with hex fitting on top of boiler you can get a wrench onto (V2.0, perhaps)

dkny3939 (original poster)

#4: Post by dkny3939 (original poster) replying to Mark5902 »

v2 steam valve's shape is definitely an advantage. I'm not sure how to grab a hold of the round steam valve in my v1 to unscrew it. The shape change is probably why V2 steam seal in the rebuild kit won't fit earlier machines.


#5: Post by adamkaz »

Bill says mine also needs the rebuild kit. I am hesitant to move forward as I'm not seeing how to even get the shaft out without taking the whole thing apart


#6: Post by tisho »

FWIW, I have a v1.0 and my steam valve / water manifold is all chrome.

Not sure if you've done this already, but it's easiest to do what you're trying to do if you take the boiler out of the machine. To do that:

1) Pull out the steam knob (mine required a bit of force, but it's hard to break it)
2) Unscrew the 2 screws that hold the grouphead to the body of the machine
3) Disconnect the cables that go to the boiler by unscrewing the two nuts on the top of the boiler
4) This isn't strictly required, but will give you more space to work: the front panel with all the electronics / screen is loosely held by 4 screws that slide into the body of the machine. Unscrew the top 2 slightly (don't take them out), then just lift the front panel up and out. You can keep a lot of the cables attached and just hang it off the side. This will give you more space to access the boiler from the front.
5) Grab the boiler and tilt it to the left, so the valve shaft goes fully inside the machine, allowing you to lift the entire thing up.
6) Disconnect all tubes (the ones that run to the thermoblock, steam valve, whatever). If there's water in the boiler, it will start leaking as soon as you disconnect the tube from the pump, so be prepared for that.
7) Lift the boiler and grouphead out and let it drain in the sink.
8 ) I used an adjustable wrench to unscrew my steam valve. Take off the tubes, then grab the steam valve with the wrench right at the steam valve outlet (it's just a bigger piece of metal that lets you press against something, so you can turn it).
9) Hold the boiler down and turn. At this point it could also be easier to take off the grouphead entirely, so the boiler can sit on a flatter surface.

If this isn't doing it, then disassemble the boiler by unscrewing all the screws around it (warning, it will leak). Then take a ratcheting hex wrench with an extender, unscrew the hex bolt from inside the boiler (between the heating coils), and that will let you take out the entire assembly from the top of the boiler.


#7: Post by Mark5902 »

Thanks all for comments.

First, request: does anyone have any official instructions for how to use the rebuild kit?

A bit of info about what the kit comes with:
My kit has 3 o-rings about 1/8" inner diameter, and 2 o-rings about 1/2" ID as well as a brass part about 1/4" across with a small Phillips-head machine screw through it. Pic:


#8: Post by Mark5902 »

I have a few questions about fixing the V1.0 steam valve that hopefully people can chime in on.

First, about the parts and the manual parts diagram. I could only find a manual labeled V1.0. I assume the parts changes between 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 didn't get a manual revision. So I'll post this one. This is close to what I have on my machine.

Some comments: (again, my machine V1.0 with all brass valve)
- I'm calling the 'steam valve' all the parts from 20-26.
- part 25 is a plug with a nut on my machine, it just closes that side of the valve, it seems. On the parts diagram there is an o-ring and a small ball, but my machine doesn't have those. Just the plug nut. It's standard thread, clockwise to tighten.
- part 26 and 22 seem to be glued together on my machine.
- there are two little parts between 22 and 26 on the diagram. I think one is a spring and one is the little brass item shown above - I'll call it the "steam seal"). It's got a Phillips head screw that's about 1/16" and 1/4" long (assume M1.5 or so), with a nut holding a small o-ring and a brass square body about 1/4" across.
- part 21 ("steam knob rod") and part 20 ("steam knob retaining nut") are both reverse-threaded - clockwise to loosen - watch out.

Related: are the screws in this machine metric? My guess since it's made in Taiwan. The bolts that hold the boiler down look metric to me.


#9: Post by Mark5902 »

I don't feel confident in how I've re-assembled the steam valve.

I unscrewed the steam knob rod and replaced the two small o-rings on it.
If I then use a small phillips screwdriver to turn the screw inside the valve, I can feel it turning against a spring. If I unscrew this small phillips then screw the steam knob rod back in, the rod stops far out. If I screw the small phillips in deeper, the steam knob rod can go in all the way.

Does anyone have pointers on where to set the steam knob rod? What I did was unscrew the little phillips inside a bit, screw in the steam knob rod all the way, back it out about 3/4 turn, and tighten the retaining nut (part 20) completely. While tightening that nut, I adjust the limit switch on its plate. When I'm done, the steam knob goes counterclockwise to trigger the switch and stop, then a full turn clockwise to the stop on the limit switch plate (part 17).

Questions, if anyone knows:
- How should I adjust the small phillips screw inside?
- Should the retaining nut be tight against the plate and valve body when all the way in?
- When completely counterclockwise, where should the steam knob be, should I feel a stop if the limit swich is not in the way?


#10: Post by adamkaz »

My kit should be here in a few days, but I share your lack of confidence in completing this repair.

What perhaps I will do is share this with Bill and see what advice he will add.