drgary wrote:There are two screw holes in the front of the frame where a missing nameplate would otherwise fasten in. Can you suggest specs for such lights? Is my reasoning correct for wiring them?

Radio Shack should have plenty of 120 volt AC indicator lamps laying around. I would start there. If not, then amazon, ebay or mcmaster should get it. As long as they are 120 VAC, you're fine.

Ray

Thanks, Ray and Chris:

For testing I'll wire it without the power indicator lamps, but I do want to include those.

The holes in my frame are 4 mm or a bit smaller. To avoid drilling through a thick steel frame and damaging the shiny powder coat I would like something that is surface mounted and would lead the wire through the hole, but I'm not finding anything suitable looking on eBay. That's a next step, though.

yakster wrote:Normally you connect power indication between hot and neutral after the power switch, but needs to be current limited. Not sure if you have neon bulbs or LEDs. A boiler on light would likewise connect between neutral to the hot after the p-stat (and probably the safety as well, as close to the boiler as possible).

Maybe someone can verify neons or LEDs that can be wired that include current limiters in the circuit, they probably come wired in the bulb kit.

A normal pilot / indicator type lamp is all that is required here. If should be wired up in parallel (as shown in the schematic above) and will draw its own current based on its internal resistance. There's no need to limit anything.

Using an LED (in the strict sense of the word) is a little more tricky, because an LED is a diode and diodes only allow current to flow one direction.

If Gary searches ebay for "green pilot light" or something along those lines (or visits Radio Shack), he'll be in fat-city as far as indicator lights that will work are concerned Just make sure they are rated at 120 VAC and everything should work no problem as far as the voltage drop, resistance, etc. Just wire them in and go!

Ray

drgary wrote:Thanks, Ray and Chris:

For testing I'll wire it without the power indicator lamps, but I do want to include those.

The holes in my frame are 4 mm or a bit smaller. To avoid drilling through a thick steel frame and damaging the shiny powder coat I would like something that is surface mounted and would lead the wire through the hole, but I'm not finding anything suitable looking on eBay. That's a next step, though.

Most of the common indicator lamps have a nice chrome bezel around them. If you carefully drill the 4mm hole larger, you shouldn't damage the powder coating much. Install the light with a little black RTV sealant under the bezel and you should be okay I think.

The only other thing you could do is take some clear Acrylic and turn it down to 4mm diameter. Then glue it into the holes (maybe create a reflective dome and then a 4mm post that goes through the hole). Then put the indicator lamp on the inside of the machine, such that it shines through the Acrylic shaft and illuminates the part sticking through the housing. That *might* work, although it won't be quite as visible as drilling the hole and mounting a full blown pilot light onto the unit (I don't think).

Ray

Mine is prettier and much more in keeping with the season



A Source: http://www.chriscoffee.com/products/hom ... reenlights

Thanks, Eric:

I've got my team behind me! Off to Radio Shack for spade connectors, perhaps some kind of wiring junctions for lights and indicator lights if they have them. If not, the ones you linked are perfect.

erics wrote:Mine is prettier and much more in keeping with the season

Nice job!

But as I always say, "Go big or go home!!"

. . . some kind of wiring junctions . . .

You really should be connecting your incoming power cable to a terminal strip. It is not ABSOLUTELY necessary but it sure makes wiring easier.

That's now up on The craziest %#*$ing thing I've seen all day... - Page 133

erics wrote:You really should be connecting your incoming power cable to a terminal strip. It is not ABSOLUTELY necessary but it sure makes wiring easier.

And a terminal strip is (newbie reminder)? OK. I Googled it for myself and it's one of those screw-on or lock-in connector thingies.