Conti PMS Evolution Restoration
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- Posts: 42
- Joined: 6 years ago
Started restoring a two group Conti, a PMS Evolution. I got out the bore hone to clean up the group head cylinders to see and feel this. I'm guessing the cylinder is chrome plated brass and the actual cylinder wall is just a plating?
What are people's opinions on reconditioning/plating vs buying new group assemblies? Conti's website shows a complete group assembly is ~$300 or so.
What are people's opinions on reconditioning/plating vs buying new group assemblies? Conti's website shows a complete group assembly is ~$300 or so.
- Bluecold
- Posts: 1774
- Joined: 16 years ago
The manual group body, part# 199200, is listed for 75 euro, plus shipping. So any repair other than 'fill the rough area with epoxy and sand it smooth' is probably not cost effective.
If I were you I'd first try the epoxy fix. But I'm impatient, and epoxy takes less time to cure than the shipping of the part. If the epoxy doesn't hold, you can always go the 'new part' route.
If I were you I'd first try the epoxy fix. But I'm impatient, and epoxy takes less time to cure than the shipping of the part. If the epoxy doesn't hold, you can always go the 'new part' route.
LMWDP #232
"Though I Fly Through the Valley of Death I Shall Fear No Evil For I am at 80,000 Feet and Climbing."
"Though I Fly Through the Valley of Death I Shall Fear No Evil For I am at 80,000 Feet and Climbing."
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- Posts: 42
- Joined: 6 years ago
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- Posts: 42
- Joined: 6 years ago
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- Posts: 42
- Joined: 6 years ago
The first test showed no leaks or faults but I now understand why a pressurestat is so important and a PID is useless in a single boiler machine. At Least now I have a very fancy temperature display
Added a pressurestat, got the second GS3 steam wand in, insulated the hard lines and more importantly, the tank. Also put IEC 320 C14 and C19 receptacles on the bottom so I can plug in 110v for testing or 220v when it finds its home with enough power. Not making much progress right now, still need to order the group heads from Conti. Some of the carbon panels are trimmed and ready to be fitted but not until the groups are installed and the front panel goes on.
And a quick photo of the electronics boxes without the covers on. Power distribution, water level controller and LED driver for all the solenoid switches.
Added a pressurestat, got the second GS3 steam wand in, insulated the hard lines and more importantly, the tank. Also put IEC 320 C14 and C19 receptacles on the bottom so I can plug in 110v for testing or 220v when it finds its home with enough power. Not making much progress right now, still need to order the group heads from Conti. Some of the carbon panels are trimmed and ready to be fitted but not until the groups are installed and the front panel goes on.
And a quick photo of the electronics boxes without the covers on. Power distribution, water level controller and LED driver for all the solenoid switches.
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- Posts: 42
- Joined: 6 years ago
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- Posts: 1827
- Joined: 7 years ago
I'm quite excited to see the end result of this amazing project... Beautiful work so far!
LMWDP #592
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- Posts: 42
- Joined: 6 years ago
Body panels coming together and hopefully the final assembly!
Water level sight LED "on" indicates steam pressure stable. RH front panel push button is a water fill override in case the auto-sense stops working; LED "on" indicates water level good.
LH buttons on the front panel are separate for main power and PID/heating element power; their LED's go on when each button is pressed.
Water level sight LED "on" indicates steam pressure stable. RH front panel push button is a water fill override in case the auto-sense stops working; LED "on" indicates water level good.
LH buttons on the front panel are separate for main power and PID/heating element power; their LED's go on when each button is pressed.