Walt,

Can you show a photo of your yoke? You're probably looking at ones from different generations of groups. The first generation La Pavonis are the Europiccola model with a group that has a brass sleeve and the lever is rigid cast brass that's chromed. These can rub at the top of the group. The Professional model starts at the second generation and the lever yoke build quality degrades to a bent metal that can flex.

I've gotten back to my build on this machine and am close to having it functioning. Here's what's happened to this point. The boiler is mounted back on the base after I fashioned spacer gaskets for above and below out of 0.03" PTFE sheet. I put blue painter's tape on one side of the PTFE sheet to mark it, scored it with a hobby knife and cut it with scissors, and I coated the gaskets with Dow 111. I obtained a fine thread heating element flange. It replaces the old brass flange, but I would have been able to make a "go" out of that one by drilling holes and tapping them for the new heating element. The new heating element and pressurestat are now attached, sealing the bottom of the boiler. As one tightens down the screws on the heating element to the flange, this tensions the boiler against the upper part of the base and locks it in place. I can assure you it won't swivel unless I want it to in order to service the group. I've used a stock La Pavoni PSTAT and resettable heat safety switch. I've cleaned up the old switch and will use it to power the machine on and off. I'm reattaching the vintage Massimo/Minimo switch plate. Minimo will be extreme as it will actually be the Off position. I've also drilled holes for LED indicator lights, with a green one showing power On and the red one showing when the heating element is activated. I've inserted a new sightglass with seals and have inserted a new piston rod gasket with retainer ring and clip. All are lubed with Dow 111. The screws fastening the heating element to the flange are coated with food-safe anti-seize compound. I've also replaced the steam gasket by cutting off the old one, cutting the new one and gluing it together with superglue. This has worked quite well with my 1961 Europiccola. I've also replaced the piston gaskets. Here are some progress photos. I'm still awaiting arrival of a replacement piston rod, but absent that I'll reinstall the old one until it arrives.


Boiler mounted, not yet aligned


New heating element attached with PSTAT.


LED holes made with cordless hand drill. Paint will be retouched.


Automatic hole punch used to guide drill to tap LED light holes. Note the extended part at the base after turning it counterclockwise for a softer push before it punches.


LED lights in place to show Power On and Heating Element On

Here's how I intend to wire the machine. The diagram was provided by Ray Johns when I was wiring my Conti Prestina.

I've started soldering wires and connecting the electricals underneath but am still awaiting a power cord that will arrive on Monday. Today the replacement piston shaft arrived from Gabor, so I thought it would be fun to do a first full reassembly of the machine. There was a fun moment when the stainless steel circlip for that holds in the piston rod gasket launched itself. After I cleaned up my work area I found it a full dozen feet from the machine. Fortunately I'd retained the old circlip, which was a stainless steel replacement, still in good shape. That taught me (finally) to hold my free hand over the insertion area to catch foul balls.

Here are some beauty shots.

First, Gabor's replacement piston rod, just about identical to the original but without pin wear. The color difference gives the illusion they're a different size, but they're not.



Here's how it's shaping up. I still have to create the upgraded lever pins and fit the roller bearing assembly for the yoke, but as-is with the old worn lever pins and lubricated, the action feels pretty smooth.



The white power cord will be replaced by a black one on Monday. When I install the electricals I'll show it to you all connected.