Breville Oracle Touch LOUD noises while powered off. - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
phxflyboy (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 1 year ago

#11: Post by phxflyboy (original poster) »

Great, thanks! Looks like the o-rings are arriving a day early so hopefully I'll know if this fixes it later today.

phxflyboy (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 1 year ago

#12: Post by phxflyboy (original poster) »

Well, I replaced the o-ring from the photo, the one on the side of the steam boiler. Put it all back together, works great! BUT...I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to power it up while the machine was open, so I disassembled it again, plugged it in, let it get to temperature. Immediately found 2 more leaks on the top of the steam boiler, a water line and a sensor probe. Replaced those o-rings, seems to be running better than ever!

Thanks so much to everyone who helped out, I could not have done this without the assistance of the forum members and the wealth of information provided here.

Brent

KatieFisher
Posts: 2
Joined: 1 year ago

#13: Post by KatieFisher »

Hello phxflyboy
Did replacing the o-ring fix the loud noise problem?
Where you able to inspect the main board for capacitor pop-off or any burn marks?
My machine BES980XL is making a loud noise too and gets hot to the touch when powered OFF.
It also fills the water tray.

KatieFisher
Posts: 2
Joined: 1 year ago

#14: Post by KatieFisher »

Ignore. I didn't see that last post from Brent.
Thank you Brent for the follow-up on your success!

phxflyboy (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 1 year ago

#15: Post by phxflyboy (original poster) »

KatieFisher,

No worries! My Oracle Touch is still working better than ever since replacing those o-rings. Not just that sound thing but other issues I didn't realize were issues! Cheap, easy fix!

WWWired
Posts: 352
Joined: 5 years ago

#16: Post by WWWired »

phxflyboy wrote:Well, I replaced the o-ring from the photo, the one on the side of the steam boiler. Put it all back together, works great! BUT...I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to power it up while the machine was open, so I disassembled it again, plugged it in, let it get to temperature. Immediately found 2 more leaks on the top of the steam boiler, a water line and a sensor probe. Replaced those o-rings, seems to be running better than ever!

Thanks so much to everyone who helped out, I could not have done this without the assistance of the forum members and the wealth of information provided here.

Brent
Hi phxflyboy :) Fantastic fault narrowing by everyone in the thread :) A huge amount of great insights for anyone reading this thread in future.

TRIACs: The Breville Dual Boiler's Electrical Gate-Keeper and Its Enemy Steam.
One thing possibly worth keeping in mind for any machine that is exhibiting features of being energized when the power button is off but the machine is plugged in is the TRIAC board on these Breville Machines. Leaky o-rings and gaskets on a Breville can release steam, and if that steam hits electronic components, this may cause deterioration over time leading to faults in how Current coming into the machine is controlled/regulated. The TRIAC regulates power to high energy components inside the machine (like the Heating Elements that require full Current) and it also serves as a Current gate-keeper of sorts. If components seem to be exhibiting evidence of being energized when the power is off (but the Current supply is still connected to the machine), a faulty component in the TRIAC PCB Assembly may be worth investigating. These TRIAC PCB Boards are dwindling commodity as the stock of them begins to run out over time (as do all spare parts for any machine), however TRIAC PCB Assemblies for Breville Dual Boiler Machines can usually be purchased for $40 to $50 when a supplier has them in stock. The TRIACs on these Breville Dual Boilers can usually be found mounted under the top cover/case-lid of the machine.

Intermittent TRIAC Power Faults
A failing component on a TRIAC PCB Assembly can be perfectly functional one moment and then fail in a closed or open state the next, and worse, return to fully functional state shortly after that. The worst part of this is that while a person is sleeping, out walking the dog (or cat), or cheering on the local ping-pong champion at regional championships, the TRIAC PCB components may decide that is the best time to let 'er rip with full power to a Heating Element . . . and not stop . . . letting the Current flow resulting in overheating of the Heating Element and a castastrophic Chernobyl meltdown . . . please check the batteries in your smoke alarms at this point and return your seats to the upright positions.

This is particularly important If there is evidence of steam/water damage from a leak inside the casing. This can cause resistors, Optocouplers, Capacitors and the TRIAC chips themselves to develop a fault, leading to possible energization of components even when the machine's power button is off.

As the TRIAC PCB Assembly is a high-energy component assembly, it may very easily be showing signs of heat, not a bad thing . . . but . . . if a component looks like its had one too many drinks on St. Patty's day, and lost its cookies, that's worth taking notice of. Here is a photo of a steam damaged TRIAC PCB Assembly from a BES900 Dual Boiler (slightly different than your model). A closer look at R114 and R44 in particular reveals evidence of rupture on the Resistors and upon further testing several of the components on the TRIAC board proved to have varying degrees of damage/faults developing . . .





A good close look at the TRIAC PCB Assembly is something that could provide insights on any machine that exhibits components being energized when the machine is powered off but still connected to the mains supply Current (plugged-in). Regular annual or biennial (every second year) inspection of all components is well worth considering and a very common excellent maintenance is to check and replace all o-rings and gaskets as needed. Leaks from high pressure hoses, probes and thermal control components in the boilers may have an impact over time on electronics such as the components on the TRIAC PCB Assembly.

phxflyboy (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 1 year ago

#17: Post by phxflyboy (original poster) »

WWWired,

Wow, that is some seriously detailed and incredibly helpful information! Thank you so much! I will be disassembling mine again soon for the sole purpose of taking a look at that circuit board. And I will most likely purchase an extra or two, at those prices.

Can't thank you enough for taking the time to put that post together.

Brent

Jackiechan2305
Posts: 4
Joined: 1 year ago

#18: Post by Jackiechan2305 »

Brent,

Do you have a link of where you bought the o-rings, and or the exact names of the rings? I'm on breville right now trying to order seals and rings and they cool names like "seal wand wrap".

Thanks

Andrew

phxflyboy (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 1 year ago

#19: Post by phxflyboy (original poster) »

Hey Andrew!

Here is the o-ring set I ordered and the small ones were the perfect size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BFJ ... UTF8&psc=1

Brent

luvmy40
Posts: 1152
Joined: 4 years ago

#20: Post by luvmy40 »

Jackiechan2305 wrote:Brent,

Do you have a link of where you bought the o-rings, and or the exact names of the rings? I'm on breville right now trying to order seals and rings and they cool names like "seal wand wrap".

Thanks

Andrew
All three sizes needed for regular maintenance of your BDB:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F ... UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT ... UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013 ... UTF8&psc=1