Breville Oracle blows 20 amp breaker

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.

#1: Post by Wmbailey5 »

Two year old Breville Oracle blows dedicated 20 amp breaker when heating up first time each morning. Gets to about 165 degrees and blows fuse.

Reset breaker and turn back on and then heats up to 200 degrees and stays on all day.

Any ideas on cause and then a DIY repair? Would like to avoid sending to Breville to fix.

Thank you in advance.


#2: Post by luvmy40 »

How old is the breaker?

They do go bad.

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#3: Post by civ »


Welcome to HB. 8^D
Wmbailey5 wrote: ... blows dedicated 20 amp breaker when heating up first time ...
... turn back on and then heats up to 200 degrees and stays on all day.
The breaker trips because it overloads ie: the heating element is, for whatever motive, drawing excess current.
But it is doing so under a certain set of circumstances, so prima facie it seems to be working properly.

My money is on a loose spade connector/s at the heating element or maybe at the pressurestat.

The fact that it does not do it once the machine is at working temperature tells me that you may have a loose connection somewhere in the circuit.
ie: while the boiler is still cold-ish and the element is continuously 'on' before working temperature/pressure is reached.

By the time you reset the breaker and turn on the machine again, the element/boiler has almost reached working temperature and all metals involved (eg: spade connectors) have expanded enough to make sufficient contact for the current drawn at that temperature point not to create a problem.
ie: the element is working 'on/off' according to the pressurestat's specific hysteresis/deadband and drawing current in an intermittent manner instead of 100% on.
Wmbailey5 wrote: Any ideas on cause ...
Well ...
That's my take on the problem.
Wmbailey5 wrote: ... and then a DIY repair?
Ah ...
Another matter altogether.

My best advise would be this:

Please take into account that electricity and water do not mix well.

Any maintenance should be done with the machine unplugged and any electrical repairs/mods should be done by/looked at/supervised by someone who understands how these machines work and knows about how to do repair work on electrical appliances.

If you do not have some basic electrical experience ie: you are not an engineer but you do know how to repair a toaster or a vacuum cleaner, you will be better off getting a home appliance tech/electrician/knowledgeable friend to help you sort this out.

Lines above may sound pretentious but I'd rather they be there than not.

Tell us how you fared with this.



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#4: Post by ira »

Not trying to be insulting, but you're talking about the breaker in the panel and it's not a GFI or other "smart" breaker? Blowing a 20 amp breaker indicates it's pulling a lot of current. It's "possible" that it's somehow turning on both elements at one time which might get near the limit if there's other things on that circuit. The fact that it happens consistently at the same temperature make me think it's something like that. Maybe one of the SSRs is going bad and turning off slowly causing them to overlap.



#5: Post by JRising »

Do you have a clamp-on type of ammeter and a looped plug or some way of testing what it's actually drawing? Find a way to measure the actual draw, if it's 20+ fix the machine, if it's <20, replace the breaker.