Breville Oracle BES980XL - Thermal Fuse Replacement/Detailed Disassembly - Page 4
Thanks so much for the super useful guide. Have disassembled my Breville Oracle and tested the fuse, which has blown after an ill-advised descale this evening.
Was unfortunately using my phone as the guide though, working through the illustrations one by one and seem to have moved too fast, didn't see the picture with clear warning, and lost the little washer from inside the hose connector for the large pump. Any ideas on its details to attempt to get another?
Any assistance appreciated!
Was unfortunately using my phone as the guide though, working through the illustrations one by one and seem to have moved too fast, didn't see the picture with clear warning, and lost the little washer from inside the hose connector for the large pump. Any ideas on its details to attempt to get another?
Any assistance appreciated!
I registered just to thank @littleyip for this post.
With it I have successfully replaced the thermal fuse on my Oracle Touch.
(new part procured from Amazon for GBP7 for ten).
It is as fiddley as everyone says and I was slightly surprised that it all went back together and worked. But it is doable. in addition to OP's original instructions I'd advise:
- Get some replacement silicone washers, most will be fine but the ones on the steam boiler will probably need replacing.
- The requirement for a long screwdriver is a must, at least 12 inches/30cm
- Its easier to open the white electrical box at the back and unplug the high voltage connectors to give you access (Photograph what goes where first). Note that like a lot of the spade connectors in the dual boiler they lock - you can release them by pushing with a small screwdriver at the top of the spade.
- reseat the drain valves (make sure you get them the right way around, the steam drain valve has a tab to engage a switch that kills power to the heater) and fasten them in place before you drop/push the boiler back onto its mount, shepherding the tubes out the way from the back.
- I just crimped the new fuse onto the existing wires, but it was tight (the wire connected to the element I did through the inspection hole at the bottom (and obviously I had a crimper)). I can't think of any other way of securing to be honest.
- It took me most of one afternoon to dismantle and most of the following morning to reassemble so its not a quick job. For all this time I was cursing whoever decided against an access port in the right hand side of the machine.
I discovered that I have a leak on the tube that enters the boiler half way up on the inside (under the bracket). I didn't even know this existed (and still don't know what it does). I had to leave it as it was too caked up with scale to remove to replace the O-ring. hope its OK. Stupidly I chipped off most of the scale as the first step to changing the O-ring but it wasn't for budging.
@littleyip, thanks again.
With it I have successfully replaced the thermal fuse on my Oracle Touch.
(new part procured from Amazon for GBP7 for ten).
It is as fiddley as everyone says and I was slightly surprised that it all went back together and worked. But it is doable. in addition to OP's original instructions I'd advise:
- Get some replacement silicone washers, most will be fine but the ones on the steam boiler will probably need replacing.
- The requirement for a long screwdriver is a must, at least 12 inches/30cm
- Its easier to open the white electrical box at the back and unplug the high voltage connectors to give you access (Photograph what goes where first). Note that like a lot of the spade connectors in the dual boiler they lock - you can release them by pushing with a small screwdriver at the top of the spade.
- reseat the drain valves (make sure you get them the right way around, the steam drain valve has a tab to engage a switch that kills power to the heater) and fasten them in place before you drop/push the boiler back onto its mount, shepherding the tubes out the way from the back.
- I just crimped the new fuse onto the existing wires, but it was tight (the wire connected to the element I did through the inspection hole at the bottom (and obviously I had a crimper)). I can't think of any other way of securing to be honest.
- It took me most of one afternoon to dismantle and most of the following morning to reassemble so its not a quick job. For all this time I was cursing whoever decided against an access port in the right hand side of the machine.
I discovered that I have a leak on the tube that enters the boiler half way up on the inside (under the bracket). I didn't even know this existed (and still don't know what it does). I had to leave it as it was too caked up with scale to remove to replace the O-ring. hope its OK. Stupidly I chipped off most of the scale as the first step to changing the O-ring but it wasn't for budging.
@littleyip, thanks again.
Hi,
Could you please advise what size o-rings should we get to make a proper overhauling of things. I got mine from someone who unfortunately had not taken a good care of the machine?
.
Thanks
Could you please advise what size o-rings should we get to make a proper overhauling of things. I got mine from someone who unfortunately had not taken a good care of the machine?

Thanks
I was hoping someone could help me that has completed this task. I have managed to remove all of the screws from the bottom of my breville oracle and the one from under the wheel lock mechanism but for the life of me i can not get the bottom off is there something im missing? Its like its stuck and im worried if i try to pry it off i will break something