Sage were out of stock for the last few months somI ended up using a Delonghi specific hose. seems to be ok

Thank you for a tip about solenoid valve! It was a great idea.

But I still failed to remove calcified end of the tube from the boiler.

Here is how it looked before I attacked it.


I put some vinegar there, waited, put some time. Put some more vinegar, waited some more more, wiggled the tube all directions I could, tried to heat the seat a bit with portable soldering iron (not sure if it was effective), was pulling it different directions again... Put some food grade penetrating oil, waited, waited, waited... Nothing really helped.
I can see my tube is a bit thinner at the base now so I was concerned about breaking it.
I gave up and put the pin back.

I powered up the machine, let it heat and reach the steam pressure - no obvious leak from that side port for now.

Is there any other idea to try without removing the boiler?

It sounds like your attempts were reasonable. If you really want it out without damaging the tube I think you were probably on the right path with vinegar, wiggle (in/out/all direction), wait, wiggle, heat cycle, repeat. Eventually it should come out. Any update?

Newbie espresso enthusiast ...First time post.

I found this excellent thread while researching the root cause of my 3 year old Breville Oracle Touch BES990 tripping the GFCI outlet where it has been connected for last 2 years. It seems to be a common enough problem with BDBs.I was able to find lots of posts about leaks causing a short cirtcuit tripping the GFCI, however, with the exception of folks on this thread, there aren't a lot of posts/ folks that have attempted this repair.

Because of the difficult access situation with this side inlet port, I actually tested /triggerred the trip condition to be sure that it was this inlet that was causing the problem before I even attempted this complicated repair.

With the machine top cover removed, I manually frothed/steamed mulitple cups of water until a small droplet of water appeared at the inlet and dropped right on top of something that looks like a temp sensor located right below the inlet. The machine instantly tripped the GFCI. I had verified my root cause ! So far so good !!

Following instructions posted by Geoff and Barista Bob on this thread I was able to finally remove the steam tube, but the 007 size o-rings that I had picked up from eBay were too thick to fit into the inlet port. 007 size was recommened on multiple threads on HB forums. After a bit more searching I found another post on HB that had actual O-ring part numbers listed from Grainger, which I have ordered today.

O-ring, Dash 006, Silicone, 0.07 In., Pk100 Item # 1REC1
https://www.grainger.com/product/1REC1? ... id=NA:Item

O-ring, Dash 010, Silicone, 0.07 In., Pk100 Item # 1REC5
https://www.grainger.com/product/1REC5? ... id=NA:Item


I would be grateful if anyone that has done this repair can share the part numbers for the o-rings that they used. Can anyone tell if these o-rings would work for the side port inlet on BES990 ?


thanks

- Rakesh

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

These are th o-rings I use for the steanm/water line connections.

I powered up the machine, let it heat and reach the steam pressure - no obvious leak from that side port for now.

Is there any other idea to try without removing the boiler?

Let sleeping dogs lie.

RKaw wrote:Newbie espresso enthusiast ...First time post.

I found this excellent thread while researching the root cause of my 3 year old Breville Oracle Touch BES990 tripping the GFCI outlet where it has been connected for last 2 years. It seems to be a common enough problem with BDBs.I was able to find lots of posts about leaks causing a short cirtcuit tripping the GFCI, however, with the exception of folks on this thread, there aren't a lot of posts/ folks that have attempted this repair.

Because of the difficult access situation with this side inlet port, I actually tested /triggerred the trip condition to be sure that it was this inlet that was causing the problem before I even attempted this complicated repair.

With the machine top cover removed, I manually frothed/steamed mulitple cups of water until a small droplet of water appeared at the inlet and dropped right on top of something that looks like a temp sensor located right below the inlet. The machine instantly tripped the GFCI. I had verified my root cause ! So far so good !!

Following instructions posted by Geoff and Barista Bob on this thread I was able to finally remove the steam tube, but the 007 size o-rings that I had picked up from eBay were too thick to fit into the inlet port. 007 size was recommened on multiple threads on HB forums. After a bit more searching I found another post on HB that had actual O-ring part numbers listed from Grainger, which I have ordered today.

O-ring, Dash 006, Silicone, 0.07 In., Pk100 Item # 1REC1
https://www.grainger.com/product/1REC1? ... id=NA:Item

O-ring, Dash 010, Silicone, 0.07 In., Pk100 Item # 1REC5
https://www.grainger.com/product/1REC5? ... id=NA:Item


I would be grateful if anyone that has done this repair can share the part numbers for the o-rings that they used. Can anyone tell if these o-rings would work for the side port inlet on BES990 ?


thanks

- Rakesh

Those are the ones...I ordered these from Granger as well but in AFLAS material. They are a little harder to seat but if you spread a little food grade silicone lube on the o-ring it go in nice and easy. AFLAS o-rings last a life time, at least I have never needed to re-replace the AFLAS ones and some are over four years old and counting. All my oem silicone o-rings have been replaced on my 6+ year old machine.

@Barista Bob.
Do you recall if this is the O-ring type and size that you ordered from Grainger ?
www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPRO ... 007-60YK77

@luvmy40. Thanks for the tip. I have ordered the ones that you suggested from Amazon, just in case the ones that I have already ordered from Grainer don't work

Thank you for all for the prompt responses. Appreciate your help.

Rakesh

I have the same issue. Pin remove but the tube is stuck in it. Are you able to remove it?

I peformed this operation today, and managed to prevail - but only after an epic battle of biblical proportions. At first things went swimmingly, and I was able to remove the clip with a hemostat - without having to remove the solenoid. I replaced the 007 washer, and engaged in a protracted, heroic battle trying to get the clip back on using the hemostat. I managed to lose the clip into the abyss, and then cut the living bejesus out of my thumb and a finger on the surprisingly sharp tabs of the machine as I shook it upside down (see below). When I lost the clip again, I wore gloves before shaking the machine, which prevented further bloodshed. Miraculously, I was able to recover the clips both times.



I ended up removing the solenoid, which made access much easier, but it was still incredibly difficult to get the clip back on, largely because I could barely see it, even with a bright headlamp. I removed one of the tubes just below the solenoid, which also made access easier. I ended up laying the machine on its right side, which made it much easier to see and access. It turns out that the tube wasn't in far enough for the clip to go on; after wiggling and pushing it a bunch, I heard a pop as it went in all the way. At that point, the clip went in easily. Here's what it looks like on its side, with arrow showing the location of the port.



if I had to do it again I think it would be much easier next time. However, it is still a colossal PITA, and not for the faint of heart!

Cheers to all who contributed to this thread, I don't think I ever would've attempted it otherwise.