I first posted about my dripping steam wand back in 2021 (see forum post: Breville Dual Boiler BES920XL: Steam Leak at Top of Machine).

I tried replacing the steam wand with a new factory one I ordered online, but I've now noticed that the lower part of the valve leaks steam and water. I'm using the same 007 o-ring in the part where the valve attaches to the base. I've tried replacing the o-ring with a new one, but the leak remains. I also noticed that the in the off position, the steam wand valve moves and the tubing gets pushed as well (see the video). Can someone with access to their steam wand valve tell me if I'm missing anything? Thanks so much!
Steam valve side view:


Notice now the tubing is at a diagonal from the valve in the off position.


Video of the steam leak

The bracket that holds the valve in place along with the mounting screws are missing

The PTFE tube is not seated in the valve properly or is damaged at the valve. I would replace the tubing and make sure to seat the new tube in the valve first.

The mounting bracket could be fabricated or, I am sure a new or used one could be procured somewhere.

luvmy40 wrote:The PTFE tube is not seated in the valve properly or is damaged at the valve. I would replace the tubing and make sure to seat the new tube in the valve first.

The mounting bracket could be fabricated or, I am sure a new or used one could be procured somewhere.

Do you have an image or video of how to seat the PTFE tube into the machine properly? The tube is new since the replacement valve I bought came with a new tube. I still have the mounting bracket, but mounting it still results in a leak. Thanks for the help!

Update! I ended up fixing the leak. Turns out the connection between the steam valve PTFE and the machine's steam wand requires not one, but TWO red 007 O-rings next to each other. I must have lost an o-ring while taking the steam valve apart. Leaving this for future people trying to fix their steam wand valve.

I've got a bad feeling but without that bracket to keep the valve perfectly vertical and Still those orings will probably fail sooner than later.

The easiest way to insert the tube into the top of the steam wand is to remove it from the bottom of the steam ball valve (it pulls out easily) and insert it into the connector using a single o ring and grease. If it doesn't go in easily I use fine sandpaper wrapped around a screwdriver to remove the scale. Then you can insert the tube back into the ball valve. The valve will continue to develop leaks without the mounting bracket in place.

purple wrote:Update! I ended up fixing the leak. Turns out the connection between the steam valve PTFE and the machine's steam wand requires not one, but TWO red 007 O-rings next to each other. I must have lost an o-ring while taking the steam valve apart. Leaving this for future people trying to fix their steam wand valve.

Can someone verify this? I just overhauled my leaky steam-wand as well, but only put one 007 in each of the 3 spots (each of 90-deg top fitting and the bottom). I am struggling with another leak so I'm gonna tag it on to this thread since it is more appropriate than the 'master' thread on BDB repairs...

The ball-seals were pretty caved in (9yr old machine) so I got new ones on Amazon... but now getting a leak within the valve threads... it's the part below the white-plastic washer - the fitting above where the ball goes. This is the one you are to tighten enough that you can still turn the valve... And then use it until you have to tighten it again until you eventually flip the seals...

My theory is I need to cycle and steam enough that the new seals settle in a bit so I can tighten it down either enough to fully thread the parts (so it gets the to built-in black gasket on the ball-holding-part of the assembly) - or enough where I can get enough thread sealer to actually seal the thing up. I did apply PTFE NSF thread-sealer, but maybe not enough?? I let it cure for 24hrs before trying. This is my second round - the first time I got quite a bit of spray - this time I was a little more aggressive on how much I tightened it and applied a little more PTFE, and waited longer for it to cure.

Any help on getting this last leak to stop?

You can get the new seals to bed in completely so that you can tighten the bottom screw fitting to it's full extent. When you have fitted the new seals temporarily fit the control lever to the valve and turn the valve to the closed position. Tighten the fitting with a hex key until it contacts the seal and then rotate the valve open and closed several times until it moves easily then leave it closed. Repeat the tighten and open close valve steps until the fitting is tightened fully. Don't try tightening the fitting with the valve open as this will damage the seals.

Thanks mcudogs, that seems like it will get me there. But the above post #5 on two 007 orings in this path seems to concern me... is this correct? I currently only have one. Have not tried to see if a stack of two would fit, but never heard any mention of it in other threads. I think in post #7 you imply it should be a single but want to confirm.