Breville Dual Boiler 920 XL Overheat After Standby

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
CHANDY

#1: Post by CHANDY »

Hello Everyone,

I got a call from my customer regarding to Overheat Temperature of his BDB 920 XL.
Finding and Solution:
- There are leaking from Steam Boiler : O-ring Replaced and tested: the temperature started and ended in 93 degree. After stand by, the temperature heat up from 93 to 94 ... 98 degree. I have tried to turn on Steam Wand, the temperature was still increase. But it decreased when i closed steam wand and instead i turned Hot Water on. I could surely, that the issue is from Coffee Boiler.
- I replaced Sensor of Coffee Boiler : It seems work fine at first but i have noticed that the smoke come from the below tray and temperature keep heating even though the power off with plug still in. Wow, Whats that?
- I tried to replace Triac PCB: The heating with no power is gone. But the issue still remain. The started with cold machine is end up with 93 degree. But after Standby it's gone Overheat. I turned machine power off and have it rest some more and start it over again. The temperature end up with 93 degree, and after awhile i turned it off and on again (not wait it to cold) it's started to Overheating.

Anyone face the same issue? Please, help to share.

Thanks you

pcrussell50

#2: Post by pcrussell50 »

Do you perform this test with the top cover off? The top cover must be off and the triac board must be verified dry.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

CHANDY (original poster)

#3: Post by CHANDY (original poster) »

Yes, I did. the top cover is removed and triac board is confirmed dry.

pierreye

#4: Post by pierreye »

Seems like your problem is related to this article. Try replace the pump and OPV.

https://outwestcoffee.com.au/index.php/ ... ror-fixed/

pcrussell50

#5: Post by pcrussell50 » replying to pierreye »

That was a good read. The gurgling is the key. If you are not getting gurgling, which is water back flowing from the brew boiler, back through the OPV and pump, you are probably not suffering this problem, and it is likely something else. Nevertheless, it is easy enough and inexpensive enough to change the pump so it's worth a try.

Let us know what you find.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

bluntman76

#6: Post by bluntman76 »

Curious how you went also.

I have this exact same issue, overheats after being on standby. I have replaced so far all o-rings, NTC sensors, pump, solenoid, steam valve. Next step is the triac board, which i really hope is the source of the issue, and would make sense as the steam boiler had a leak right underneath it which no doubt has damaged it. Fingers crossed will report back in a couple weeks once that job complete

koliniva

#7: Post by koliniva » replying to bluntman76 »


Any luck? Looking where can I source the triac in the uk...

bluntman76

#8: Post by bluntman76 »

So i am that guy, the one who promises to report back and never does!

Yes, turns out it was the triac. Pretty easy to replace and all my overheat troubles went away.

I purchased mine from ebay, I am in Australia and there was a supplier here was fairly cheap and easy, hopefully you can source one from ebay in the uk.

nmgeek

#9: Post by nmgeek »

My machine had the same symptoms. First overheating then eventually it was tripping the circuit breaker. It was very wet inside because I was too busy to replace o-rings.

Inside, I found soot all over the trial board and one triac is melted. Two triacs are one model (Q6015L6 ) and the melted one is a different model: BTA06T-600CW. I am in the USA and shipping from Australia is taking months (I can't tell if it is New Zealand Post or US customs causing the delay.) I am not sure if the replacement board I ordered will ever by delivered.

On another forum a user reported that a friend soldered in a new triac. But the photo with the component circled shows a low power device, probably a transistor. In the Out West article, referenced above, they suggest that replacing only the triac might not be enough. There are three rectangular ICs on the board so I guess one or more of those could be fried. There is so much soot on the board I would not be able to identify the telltale discoloring next to an IC.

Furthermore, a tech suggested that there might be a _different_ version of the triac board designed for 115V USA voltage. Many of the boards for sale (only found in Australia or New Zealand) suggest they are for 240V mains. I am suspicious of this notion. I found no special part number designation for a different voltage version of the board and the boards for sale have all the same serial number markings as mine. (If the triacs can handle 240V then 115V will not burn them out but they might not function right if the circuit was designed for 240V.)

Has anyone successfully soldered in one or more triacs to repair this problem? Is a schematic or service manual available which might clarify how the machine adopts to different supply voltages?

Incidentally, the o-rings failed after 13 months from receiving the machine: the larger ones for the sensors. Ugh.

nmgeek

#10: Post by nmgeek »

Furthermore, a tech suggested that there might be a _different_ version of the triac board designed for 115V USA voltage. Many of the boards for sale (only found in Australia or New Zealand) suggest they are for 240V mains. I am suspicious of this notion. I found no special part number designation for a different voltage version of the board and the boards for sale have all the same serial number markings as mine. (If the triacs can handle 240V then 115V will not burn them out but they might not function right if the circuit was designed for 240V.)
I replaced the triac board in my 115V machine with a board advertised as a 240V part and it is working. It seems my suspicion was correct.