Breville BES980XL - Noise when using water spout.

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.

#1: Post by seanharsh »

Hey all,

Replaced the solenoid and valve for the water line on my 980XL. Water is flowing again, but I get this noise when using water either with an Americano or just plain water. You can see that the flow changes a bit depending on if there is noise or not.
I have tested the 3 sizes for Americanos and get close to what the manual states should be the amounts (6oz S, 8oz M, 12oz L) so even to know flow is affected, I still get the correct amount.

I also replaced all the o-rings on the boilers as those were leaking as well and do not have any other leaks that can be identified.

Thanks for any help!


#2: Post by WWWired »

Sounds like 50 or 60 Hz (frequency) vibration. . . the solenoid (just replaced) may be cycling on and off intermittently.

It appears from your previous post (January 9th, 2022), you replaced a 2-way Solenoid on your Breville BES980XL.

  • Locate the sound source precisely (to confirm it is the replaced solenoid)
  • Test your old Solenoid Coil Block (the one you replaced) to determine if it was indeed a bad Solenoid Coil causing the faults. You would need a Digital Multimeter (DMM), even a very simple entry-level DMM will work, to test the Solenoid Coil. Resistance testing should result in a non-zero (under 1) value when the Multimeter is set to Ohms (Ω) and the two non-ground terminals are tested for continuity. A value close to zero on this multimeter test will usually indicate a fault in the coil.
If possible, please add some photos here of the new and old solenoids showing the details written on the sides of the solenoids to assist in assessment and ruling out any other electrical issues :)

Possible Causes of noise/hum/buzz if Solenoid Issue:
(1) Coil Block not secured: Be sure not to over-tighten this, but do make sure it is secure. There is a ring nut on the top of the Solenoid that needs to sufficiently tightened. Try this, with the machine unplugged, take a wrench and tighten the ring nut about 1/12th or 1/10th of a turn, just a bit. See if any improvement results and proceed doing small increment turns/tightenings, taking care not to overtighten and damage the coil block . . . secure, not over tightened.
(2) Mineral/scale or other debris interfering with plunger action: Descale thoroughly (several times as needed, if improvements seem to develop). If no improvement through descaling, do not rule out debris interfering with solenoid plunger operation or blockage of the orifices of the solenoid.
(3) Undervoltage: This one will require a multimeter to test. Caused usually by wiring issues (connections etc.), faulty control system or signal, or a Relay not functioning nominally. This fault scenario can interfere with the Solenoid fully opening and as a result, it can vibrate between open and closed position creating a hum/buzz. To assess this fault, a multimeter would be used to measure the voltage across the energized solenoid (Warning: do this only if fully understand how to do this and the dangers of electricity). First do the two points above (1) and (2) before getting into undervoltage issues.
(4) Reassembly/Reinstallation of Solenoid: Were all the parts well seated and connected fully upon installation? It is easy to have slight misalignment of parts and wiring in such high-precision/specification components. Visually inspect the wiring and connections looking for anything out of the ordinary.

Here is a <LINK> to a post on Home-Barista about half-way down the comment) discussing a bit of how to disassemble a 2-way solenoid if it is considered desirable in this fault diagnostic to remove the plunger and dismantle it so as not to damage the plunger barrel or stop (never use pliers on the barrel or stop of a solenoid as it will damage or possibly deform the barrel containing the plunger and potentially require replacement) :)

Just a start, and the above might apply if the Solenoid is the source of the noise :)