Breville BES870XL - Loud buzz/ no pressure - need guidance - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.

#11: Post by luvmy40 »

What do you get with a blind filter?

Javabean604 (original poster)

#12: Post by Javabean604 (original poster) »

I don't seem to have a great start to the year and can't find my blind filter...

is it this thing?

it goes into the filter basket but when installed it doesn't fit in the group head


#13: Post by luvmy40 »

Yes, that is the cleaning adapter. It should push down to the bottom of the basket and simulate a blind basket. It may only fit in one of your baskets. I assume you have a double and a single basket?


#14: Post by canatto »

I'm pretty certain laud buzz and hardly any pressure on gauge has to do with the three-way solenoid going bad. I had a BES840XL so I know. A failing three-way solenoid would buzz loudly, sometimes randomly or intermittently, and part or most the brewing water would go to the drip tray. As far as I can tell the 3-way solenoid valve is a non-serviceable part in out machines. You can't fix the valve by replacing the viton rubber sealing parts on the plunger. You'd have to buy and replace the entire valve stack as a kit, that kit includes a 3-way solenoid vale, a 2-way solenoid valve, the pipework, and the sealing rings. The kit can be hard to come by these days.

It's been a while, but if you're still seeking a DIY fix, this post My last ditch fix to a buzzing 3-way solenoid valve is what I did to mine. The solenoid never missed a beat since.


#15: Post by WWWired »

Sounds like Nunas and luvmy40 have identified the source of the fault in coordination with Javabean604 :)

A great point also by cannato who revealed a "buzzing" (particularly in the 50 to 60 Hz frequency range) is likely an
oscillating part. This can be the Solenoid or any other part that is controlled by electrical current.

If possible, Javabean604, please indicate the precise location of the "really loud buzzing"? Was the "buzzing coming from:
  1. A Solenoid?
  2. The Pump?
  3. A combination of Solenoids and the Pump?
If the Original Poster ('OP"), Javabean604, can precisely locate the "buzzing" sound (a solenoid for example) this can assist incredible members like luvmy40, Nunas, cannato and many others here on Home-Barista quickly diagnose and provide a solution.

Ideally any possible video of the machine showing the fault during operation always assists greatly. This can assist in analyzing the frequency of the buzz (which can be done by reviewing a recording of the sound and counting the peaks per second). It is possible the frequency (cycles per second) of the buzz (attempted energizations of the component) will match the frequency listed on the side of the component (a solenoid etc.) or in the datasheet for that component (50 Hz in many European countries and Australia etc. where 220/230/240V is in use, and 60Hz etc. in North America where 110/120V is in use). Below is a screen capture of a an audio program's representation of a recording of a few seconds (just slightly more actually) of the buzzing sound a solenoid was making in a 60 Hz 120V Solenoid:
. . . depending on whether both the open and/or close stroke of the plunger (attempts to fully energize the coil and move the plunger to open) are audible or not, the count may be approximately 60 peaks or 120 peaks per second in the very fast buzzing noise. To put this in context, a bee's wings beat at 200 Hz (beats per second), Hummingbirds approximately 53Hz, Dragonflies 40Hz, and Bats about 10Hz . . . humans a pathetic 2 to 3 Hz, also explaining why we need good coffee

Possible Buzzing-Fault Causes: When at the Location of a 50 or 60Hz component that buzzes (such as a Solenoid)
  1. Under Voltage to Component (such as solenoid coil): Caused usually by a wiring issues (connections etc.), faulty control system (including components such as the pump diode identified by Nunas/luvmy40 or Solenoid coil identified as a possibility by luvmy40 and cannato) or signal, or a Relay not functioning nominally. This fault scenario can interfere with a component (such as a Solenoid) fully opening and as a result, it can vibrate between open and closed position creating a hum/buzz. This can be confirmed often with use of a Digital Multimeter.
  2. For Solenoids, the Coil Block Not Tightened: Be sure not to over-tighten this, but do make sure it is secure. There is a ring nut on the top of the Solenoid that needs to be sufficiently tightened. Try this, with the machine unplugged, take a wrench and tighten the ring nut about 1/12th or 1/10th of a turn, just a bit. Plug the machine back in, and try running the machine again to see if the sound/buzzing stops. If it changes, but doesn't disappear, you might try a wee bit more tightening, again 1/12th-ish of a turn of the ring nut on the top of the solenoid. If this eliminates the buzz, all great! (Again, take care not to over-tighten as the Coil Block can be cracked - secure, but not compressed)
  3. Limescale and mineral/scale buildup: This can interfere with the movement of the plunger, armature and other moving parts within a component such as a Solenoid or Pump etc. A good descale should be performed two or three times as necessary to see if it results in improvement and lessening of the buzz or its frequency of off-and-on times (energization attempts). If regular descaling doesn't work, it might be necessary to remove a solenoid (or other component), disassemble it completely (not just remove the coil block, and descale the internal components including the plunger, barrel, seat, compensation spring and plunger stop).
  4. Loose Plunger or other Internal Components: Following a complete disassembly of a component (solenoid plunger/piston assembly or vibratory pump for example), then it's possible one of the parts might not have seated properly or returned to its nominal position during re-assembly. If a buzzing appears and a disassembly/reassembly has just occurred, check all components to be sure they are seated properly and that all wire connections/terminals and wiring itself are in good condition and properly in place.
Here is an interesting comprehensive YouTube video demonstrating how to test a Vibration Pump/diode (at 1 minute and 2 seconds of the video), and discussing differences between Vibration Pump models, the internal components of Vibration Pumps, and some of the common problems and replacement components for Vibration Pumps. . .
Credit: YouTube and channel "Milen Stoitsev"

. . . and a cool YouTube video of a Vibration Pump simulation and how it pumps water . . .
Credit:YouTube and "zanty solenoid"

Many here like Nunas, luvmy40 and cannato have nearly a sixth sense when it comes to these matters and it is amazing to read the many forums they post in, along with many other incredible posters, where they can almost instantly provide the location of the fault and a solution :) Amazing and why Home-Barista is the best source on the internet for the Espresso Community and for Espresso Machine Care when it comes to these very special and incredible machines that are very highly engineered marvels of technology and design.


#16: Post by luvmy40 »


I love ya' man! But, you can't have my Miller Lite. :lol:


#17: Post by WWWired replying to luvmy40 »

lol :lol: . . . awesome!