Breville BDB 920XL Steam Wand Drip (January 2020)

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
iploya
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#1: Post by iploya »

My BDB steam wand drips even when it is off. Either into the drip tray or onto the counter if I forget to position the wand. The steam wand still works fine for its intended purpose.

Can someone please help point me to the prevailing solution for the dripping steam wand as of January 2020? Searching online has taken me down a rabbit hole with a few dead ends. It seems like this was once easy to fix by purchasing and replacing a ball valve available online. But, more recent threads (2018, 2019) suggest this part is no longer available. The 920XL is still on the market so I'm not sure why replacement parts would not be; but indeed, I did not find a ready source.

I believe I am still under warranty, but would prefer to do it myself and save the downtime of going through the warranty process.

Thanks for any help.
--AB

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greggers89

#2: Post by greggers89 »

Hi Alan,

Have you tried flipping the seal shown by Peter in this thread:
Breville Dual Boiler ball valve detail, pics

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lancealot

#3: Post by lancealot »

Just to add. Taking the ball out of the valve body and polishing it is probably a good idea. Several people have mentioned that the balls in their valves had either light corrosion, scoring/etching, wearing of the plating, or other kinds of minor surface damage. When I took mine out, there was some surface irregularities and some of the plating had worn off. I soaked the ball in dezcal for the hell of it and gave it a half hearted polish with steel wool. I am sure the smooth, refreshed surface is easier on the seals. Can't hurt as long as you don't over do it. I don't think steel wool is quite the right thing for this but it is so awkward to polish the tiny ball with steel wool that I couldn't damage it before I said, "good enough." Good luck!

new2espresso

#4: Post by new2espresso »

Does anyone have advice on how to take out the steam control arm from the side of the machine? I was able to open the top without problems but unable to get much further than that. Thanks!
Kind regards,
Karan

pcrussell50

#5: Post by pcrussell50 »

Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance
2) Drippy steam valve
The steam valve on all these machines eventually develops a slow drip when warmed up. Sometimes in as little as a year, sometimes two or three. There is a thread here on HB discussing all about it and before we figured out how easy it is to fix, a bunch of posts about possible solutions. Cutting to the chase, the easy, no parts fix: Breville Dual Boiler ball valve detail, pics. If you don't ever want this to happen to you, pretend it's a La Marzocco or other high end machine and flip the seals every year. As with other BS myths about proprietary non-user-serviceable parts, you can also buy replacement seals on Amazon for next to nothing for a bag of 100. But by and large, you don't need them. Just keep flipping the ones you have.
In short, the steam valve is serviceable, (not disposable). Disassemble as per the instructions, clean the ball, flip the seals or use new ones (also as per the guidance in the thread). Then re install. Money.

HTH

-Peter
LMWDP #553

pcrussell50

#6: Post by pcrussell50 »

new2espresso wrote:Does anyone have advice on how to take out the steam control arm from the side of the machine? I was able to open the top without problems but unable to get much further than that. Thanks!
Ah. At first I had trouble understanding your question. Now I think I have it. You want to remove the steam paddle. You simply "pop" off the round cap covering the center part of the paddle. It snaps on and off. Then you will have access to the screw in the center of the paddle that attaches it to the steam valve.

Let me know if that is not what you were asking.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

iploya
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#7: Post by iploya »

Guys, thanks very much for the direction on this. I have my next weekend project shaping up.
--AB

pcrussell50

#8: Post by pcrussell50 » replying to iploya »

If it doesn't open easily with the 6mm hex, heat the threads a little with a candle or a creme brûlée's torch or a gas stove. You're not heating the crap out of it like you would a rusty bolt. It has a thread locker that practically turns to lubricant when you heat it up a bit. Less is more. Just keep adding heat little by little as needed. I've done four of them. Two needed heat, two didn't.

HTH

And report back.

-Peter
LMWDP #553

junky2004b

#9: Post by junky2004b »

What if the leak/drip is not from the actual steam nozzle, but from the top of the steam wand - basically a 1-2 slow drop emerging from the ball joint? Can the hex around the ball be tightened? Or is that an o ring replacement or a ball valve replacement issue?
And if it's the ball valve, Is it part SP0014198 Ball Valve (that looks unavailable) or will part sp0001713 also work as a replacement. My machine is a BES920. Thanks!!

pcrussell50

#10: Post by pcrussell50 »

junky2004b wrote:What if the leak/drip is not from the actual steam nozzle, but from the top of the steam wand - basically a 1-2 slow drop emerging from the ball joint? Can the hex around the ball be tightened? Or is that an o ring replacement or a ball valve replacement issue?
Good question. That's not one of the common leak points. In fact, yours is the first I've heard of. Might be time to take a look.
junky2004b wrote:And if it's the ball valve, Is it part SP0014198 Ball Valve (that looks unavailable) or will part sp0001713 also work as a replacement. My machine is a BES920. Thanks!!
They will all work. They are all the same form factor. If you are intent on getting a new ball valve, just get any one you can get your hands on. But they are $45 or so plus shipping. And servicing the one you already have is free. Since they are serviceable (all interior seals are common replacement items), I would look to go that route first and save my $50. Then again it might be comforting to have a brand new spare lying around in case you really need it.

-Peter
LMWDP #553