breenmachine wrote:I'm curious how this affects water temperature in the reservoir? Would it increase it enough to be concerned? Ulka pumps are only rated to work with water at about 20C, in most cases water in the reservoir is probably already at or above that temperature.

Couple of things...
1) Breville specified a little bigger specs for it's Ulka pump. 52W versus 41W for the more common ones, and a 2 on/1 off duty cycle versus the more common 1/1 duty cycle. And I think it's 25degC

2) In the BDB, the pump is so easy to change, and inexpensive to buy, I never worried about exceeding it's specs. I just considered it a consumable. Though I never had a pump failure anyway up until I converted to rotary.

I don't imagine a home barista cranks out enough espressos fast enough to go far above the temperature spec.

My thoughts anyway.

-Peter

megamixman wrote:Does this seem like it might be easier to undo if you had to send the BDB back to Breville then mod #2?

I see Chris/Lancelot's mod in this thread to be a variation on the same pressure profiling scheme as "Mod #2". And a very nice one at that. In my view it would be barely any extra trouble at all to return from Chris's version, to totally stock. Easy as an o-ring change.

megamixman wrote:Also, Can you disclose any details on how you made the shot mirror panel?

LOL. Disclose? As if I hold some Breville secrets Before we go any further, I don't have a mirrored panel. I have a simple round 3" diameter mirror like the LWW one except it's magnetic and I stick it to the side of my machine. Is that what you were talking about here? If so some smart member of the BDB community deserves that credit for finding it on Amazon. I can provide the link tomorrow if he doesn't beat me to it. Just ask.

-Peter

megamixman wrote:Does this seem like it might be easier to undo if you had to send the BDB back to Breville then mod #2?

On reversing Mod 1.b (GS3) vs Mod 2. (Slayer)
Honestly I think this Mod is simpler to change-back but not by much. With this mod, you'll only need to cut the zip ties, put the hose back in the water spigot fixture (re attach with the o-ring and clip). Then you need to put the micro-switch back (2 phillips screws.) Cutting the zip ties does involve the risk of cutting water tubes by accident. I will explain this and how to prevent it below.

To reverse the Slayer Mod (Mod 2.), you will need to reroute tubing which will involve more disconnecting and reconnecting tube ends (clips and O rings). This involves a few more steps but it is still very simple. You will need to replace the microswitch just like in Mod 1.b. You also will not risk cutting tubes by accident because this mod does not involve zip tying one tube to another.

Reversing both Mods involves a little bit of risk. With Mod 1.b the biggest risk is cutting a water tube by accident. With Mod 2, the biggest risks are re-routing the tubes incorrectly and, since you have to work with more hose clips, you run a greater risk of dropping one inside the machine. All of the risks involved in reversing either of the Mods can be managed by having good documentation, taking your time and having the right tools.

Cutting the zip ties
The biggest "watch out" is going to be when you cut the zip ties. You can see in the pictures, I have the water discharge tube zip tied to another water tube for stability. The tubes are probably softer and easier to cut than the zipties so you gotta be careful when you cut the zip ties that you do not cut the water tubes by accident. I suggest using a pair or wire snips rather than scissors or a knife. (scissors bend when you are trying to make precise cuts with the tips and a knife is likely to cut other things).
This: https://www.amazon.com/Cutter-Lightweig ... 29&sr=8-23
or this:https://www.amazon.com/IGAN-P6-Precisio ... 29&sr=8-22

Not losing parts
To prevent losing the parts by accident, I just put the phillips screws from the switch back where they were in the machine chassis after I remove the switch. I have the o-ring and clip that was removed in a small plastic bag. You can tape the bag to the inside back wall of your machine or you can put it in the little accessory drawer behind the drip tray.

Also, Can you disclose any details on how you made the shot mirror panel?

Do you mean that the back splash panel of my machine is mirrored? Mine came like this. I think this is just a "feature" of the black colored machine.The black ones have this mirrored plastic back splash panel and I think the silver ones have a brushed panel.

lancealot wrote: To reverse the Slayer Mod (Mod 2.), you will need to reroute tubing which will involve...snip...

Small point of order Chris... the Slayer mod is Mod 3 in the "mods and maintenance" thread:

Mods and Maintenance thread:
3) If you want to go whole hog, you can do what we call the "Slayer Mod", which gives you beginning to end flow control, without venting/wasting to the drip tray. This is actually better-than-Slayer level control over flow. (2) is so easy it's a joke. You can't really even call it a mod. This one (3) is just easy. A few posts down, here: Breville Dual Boiler Mods and Maintenance

You are right on as usual about all your tips and techniques.

-Peter

pcrussell50 wrote:Small point of order Chris... the Slayer mod is Mod 3 in the "mods and maintenance" thread:

Darn. I am referencing the scheme for naming the Mods that I created in the first post in this thread. I see that it does not fit with the scheme that you had established which predates the thread I created here. For the time being, I am going to ask users to deal with this inconsistency. In the long term I will see if I can figure out a "unified, BDB mod referencing scheme." Right now, this will have to wait. I have to get back to another project, one less interesting - grad school

Are we becoming "fragmented"? Not offering a unified product to interested parties? Fragmentation is the bane of Android. Let's not let it happen here.

-Peter

does this mod 1.b i think mean you cant use the top for adding water?

Nah man. You CAN use the top for adding water!