Advice needed for changing heating element gasket - Page 5

January 29th, 2023, 5:10 pm

A quick update on the status of this, hmmm, activity.

I found a specialized bolts & nuts shop and there, found a probably suitable stainless steel bolt. I had a choice between an M8 bolt with flanged head, however with a serrated underside, and a 5/16 bolt with a large round head and flat underside. I chose the latter, since I guess a seal would be harder to achieve with a serrated head underside.

I was not able to find a silicone or PTFE (Teflon) gasket though. I might end up making one.

Another more pressing problem is that I couldnt but the bolt through the hole, likely because of the weld residue on the inside of the boiler. I used my Dremel to work on this and I managed to get the bolt in. Now I have another issue: it takes non-negligible torque to screw in the nut on the bolt. I can do it if I stop the bolt head with my finger through the element hole, but this will be another matter if the element is in place.

This sounds like a dumb problem but there are few solutions. I could hope the eventual gasket will provide enough friction to hold the bolt in place, perhaps pulling it at the same time with long-neck pliers. Or I could try to find a very thin nut to secure the bolt in place from the outside, and which would fit under the element flange.

On the other side, I got a much lower quote (CAD 218.00 +taxes) for a boiler, but won't be in stock until end of February. If there is no error in the quote, I'll likely order this if I can't achieve a seal on the bolt soon.

#42: Post by **ira** » January 29th, 2023, 5:51 pm

If all else fails, a good centerpunch hit at the intersection of the screw and flange will likely keep the screw from turning. It's close to permanent, so only last resort kind of solution. You could also Loctite the screw in place which might hold it enough to put on the nut. Though I would ask, if it's a brand new bolt and nut, why is it tight? You could get another screw that's 3/8 to long and file a couple of flats on two sides on the last 1/4" so you can grab it with a pair of vice grips while you tighten the nut. Just put the nut on before you file the flats so taking it off will clean up any burrs.

Ira

January 30th, 2023, 12:05 pm

ira wrote:IYou could also Loctite the screw in place which might hold it enough to put on the nut.

That's a good idea!

ira wrote: Though I would ask, if it's a brand new bolt and nut, why is it tight?

It's not really tight, but since I won't be able to hold the bolt head when the element is in place, there is nothing preventing the bolt from rotating. Also, the first few threads might have been slightly scratched when trying to push the bolt into the hole.

I also found scraps of 1mm-thick pieces of Teflon at my job, so I'll try to make a washer out of that. I kind of doubt it will work though, it's stiffer than I thought it would be, although I feel I can squish it a bit with my fingers.

I'll try and report back on the success of this operation or lack thereof as soon as I have time to try it.

#44: Post by **ira** » January 30th, 2023, 1:07 pm

I use 1mm thick Teflon to make gaskets all the time, it feels hard, but unless the surfaces are very bad, under the pressure of a tightening bolt it will form to a good seal. Make the center hole as small as possible so you have to thread it on before starting the bolt in the hole.

#45: Post by **ira** » January 30th, 2023, 1:09 pm

Don't put the lock washer near the Teflon washer. And you might also consider buying a hex head screw so it's easier to tighten and loosen. Working a Phillips blind through a hole is not as easy as you'd probably like.

February 10th, 2023, 7:38 am

A quick update on this.

I managed to make an acceptable washer out of the teflon scraps. As suggested, to center hole was small enough that it had to be threaded on the bolt.

It... almost worked -- it took an hour for me to see the first drop leaking from the bolt (this was just a leak test, not under pressure or heat).

The problem is that I have no way of tightening the nut. As soon as there is a slight hint of resistance, the bolt itself turns, and there is no way to reach and hold the head of the bolt of course. It's amazing that it was that watertight with so little pressure in fact.

The only way I can think around this is using an adhesive somewhere -- perhaps superglue in the bolt hole -- to at least hold the bolt in place while screwing the nut. I could maybe try to find a nut thin enough to fit under the element flange just to hold the bolt in place as well, but I'm not sure this exists (the nut needs to have at least one whole thread in it).

EDIT: all 5/16" jam nuts seem to have the same thickness of 3/16". Another idea would be to take my Dremel and split the end of the bolt so that I can hold it with a screwdriver while tightening the nut. However that may damage the start of the threads.

However at this point, I'll probably just buy a new boiler.

#47: Post by **amateurdad** » February 10th, 2023, 4:43 pm

Got to be a new boiler before this drives you mad!

#48: Post by **NorthWoodsMud** » March 4th, 2023, 11:06 am

I am new to this group, came in search for answers to a leaky Profitec Pro 700 steam boiler. Though your issue is the water boiler, the thread has been helpful. I found this link to a shop in Greece in another post that according to the other post is way less expensive that US shops and very responsive.

Good luck!

https://www.barista.gr/el/

- Alex

March 17th, 2023, 9:16 pm

For those wondering, the saga continues here.

Thanks for the refrence to the shop in Greece. However I found the boiler at a very good price in Canada.