Advice: Drill stainless front for anti-vacuum drain - Page 3

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.

#21: Post by Pressino »

baldheadracing wrote:The same design of hole cutter is also used to cut holes in stainless steel sinks, so it is just a matter of which type one buys....
I certainly wouldn't make a hole in mirror-finish stainless if I could avoid it. One little slip and the whole panel will look a little like a fun house mirror.
You're right: the ad does say it's for stainless steel (and shows a photo of it being used on an SS sink). I know for sure the cutters I use work well on mild steel boxes but never actually tried them on SS. Klein says my set of knockout punches are designed to cut 10ga mild steel, aluminum, fiberglass, and plastic. They might work on SS. I just assumed they wouldn't do a great job and didn't try it. :|

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#22: Post by cafeIKE »

BenS wrote: So just confirming that the reducer and cap are sitting freely on top of the boiler - they're not attached right?
Yes, free floating. Just lift off when time to replace vac break.

While other solutions work on some machines, they don't work on almost any machine. This one does.