2013 North TJ-067 gas roaster Ignition Issue - Page 4

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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EddyQ
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#31: Post by EddyQ »

drgary wrote:I just checked my North ignition and find that it functions the same way as yours. The spark activates from the right most probe to the center one. Since my ignition turns off that suggests to me that the one-sided operation is normal. It is concerning that your left hand probe is loose. All of mine are solidly in place.
Hmm. . I'll check mine to see if only one sided. My sparks are more difficult to see because they are below the top of the burner (unlike yours).

Sure looks like John's wires are all in the flame. That leaves only two possible causes. Open in a wire to igniter circuit or bad igniter circuit.
I think if either wire had a path to ground it would either not spark or false trigger the shut off circuit and not buzz or spark at all.
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smite (original poster)
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#32: Post by smite (original poster) »

OldNuc wrote:I suspect that the black box is a single component and there is just power and an innate signal sent to it and possibly the gas solenoid is also fed by it. Checking the low voltage(non spark) wiring will confirm all of that one way or another.
Thanks again, so tracing the signal from both directions including the ignition switch on the front panel through a fuse (which I replaced) and then to the box all wires look clean and show no signs a short.

To the left in this picture is the black enclosure for the fuse that sends signal to the igniter.




There is a red wire connected to the gas solenoid which I have not had time to trace.

Here is the picture of it from the other thread.


smite (original poster)
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#33: Post by smite (original poster) »

EddyQ wrote:Hmm. . I'll check mine to see if only one sided. My sparks are more difficult to see because they are below the top of the burner (unlike yours).

Sure looks like John's wires are all in the flame. That leaves only two possible causes. Open in a wire to igniter circuit or bad igniter circuit.
I think if either wire had a path to ground it would either not spark or false trigger the shut off circuit and not buzz or spark at all.
Thanks Eddy, when you say igniter circuit that would be the black box we have been referring to? Can you explain what you mean by "open in a wire"?

I apologize for the basic questions.

OldNuc
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#34: Post by OldNuc »

Black Box is the igniter control and possibly the gas solenoid control for safety shutoff. as you have gas the solenoid is opening. By open circuit he was referring to the non-arcing electrode and that is likely normal behavior.

I think you are down to a failed igniter control box, that black box.
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smite (original poster)
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#35: Post by smite (original poster) »

Got it thanks. I will post some pictures of the box when I can get back home.

OldNuc
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#36: Post by OldNuc »

I would ring up Mill City and see what they think armed with the info you now have. That will be your parts source anyway most likely.

smite (original poster)
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#37: Post by smite (original poster) »

Thanks again. Will do.

smite (original poster)
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#38: Post by smite (original poster) »

I reached out and spoke with the folks over at Mill City and it seems that they recommend replacement of the timer box as originally recommended by jammin aka Jackson.

It seems they normally sell them but they are out of stock. Does anyone know where I can source one that would work? Or is there any chance of repairing it?

smite (original poster)
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#39: Post by smite (original poster) »

Update, I am still waiting for the part to come in stock at Mill city.

Does anyone know of alternative replacement sourcing options? I did some searching but did not have much luck finding much related to the actual part needed.

Thanks again.

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drgary
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#40: Post by drgary »

Since it's probably a Chinese part, have you looked at the markings and searched Alibaba?
Gary
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What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!