2 Group Gaggia Tell Restoration - Page 2

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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IamOiman

#11: Post by IamOiman » May 07, 2019, 2:46 pm

I went out to the auto parts store near me today and the only thing they had was PB Blaster, which my grandfather happens to use with his stuff. I cannot bring this back with me when I move back so I got a regular can for $4 and I sprayed it on the stubborn nut. I also used a different strategy in my torque, suggested by my grandfather. I took a pair of vice grips and covered it and the nut plentifully in electrical tape to prevent any metal on metal contact from the vice grip teeth and the chrome nut. I then gripped the nut and turned after the oil penetrator was soaking for 4 hours. It finally gave up and I got the thing off with no damage!
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I also had to rethink my panel strategy. For the third (and hopefully final) time I realized the panels are connected differently to the frame than I initally thought. I discovered this when I flipped the machine on its back to access the bolts from the inside. I got 3 of the 4 bolts off, but the last one was completely blocked by the mercury pressurestat, so it will remain untouched for now. All of those 4 bolts connect to the rear panel and not the side panels. The reason I thought they were connected to the side panels prior was how they are actually attached to the back frame. They utilize a u-shape clip that is attached to the orange frame piece. For some reason, the panels are very stuck to it, and I have been letting them soak in the penetrator oil for a while. I have been able to wiggle both of them a little bit, so this will be a slow process that I will need to be patient with so I do not crack the panelling.
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Here are some other photos showing the boiler in view for the first time. It was obviously used with gas though the heating elements are wired. The boiler bolts do not appear too rusted so I am hopeful none of them will snap when I get to that step. I also began taking off a valve to take with me to the local hardware store, a Ferramenta. I want to see if they sell gaskets similar to the ones I will need as I can purchase them for pennies here rather than $0.50-2.00 each online.
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I may be posting in more detail than others, and it may appear mundane or redundant. I simply want to document everything I do and run into so that someone in the future who may run into a similar situation can find at least one source to look at. My experience online with other Tell restorations, even the one recommend to me by OldNuc on Kaffeenet, sometimes glances over things like the panelling!
-Ryan
I'll throw my portafilter in the ring
LMWDP #612

OldNuc

#12: Post by OldNuc » May 07, 2019, 5:59 pm

PB Blaster is popular as it is common and does work. Go to Tandy Leather when Back in the states and buy a rough finished pig skin at the heaviest weight they have as it makes perfect non-mar and non-skid jaw covers. The boiler bolts and nuts will come loose with soaking and mechanical agitation. Sometimes gentle heating of the nut and not the stud is also required.

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IamOiman

#13: Post by IamOiman » May 08, 2019, 1:30 pm

Finally got the panels off except for the left side panel! Patience does pay off, as when I tried tugging the panel this morning it reliquished its grip almost instantly compared to yesterday after soaking overnight in the penetrating oil. There was some rust on the u-connection so I will be cleaning that before reattaching them for transport. When I get the left panel off for cleaning I will post another update on where all the bolts are located and the order to take them and the panels off for the most convenience. So today I got a good look at the interior of the machine. I finally got my date for the machine, which is november 1979. This is pretty late in the production series for this model, as in the 80's it was succeeded by another model I do not quite remember the name of (D90?)
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Even this late in the game the mercury pressurestat is still used and it is in good condition. The boiler nuts are also not too rusted so I will hopefully not need to do any drill and tapping in the future. To make the take off process easier I unscrewed the cup holder heating element connection so I can simply take off the top when convenient.
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The vertical pipe towards the left connects to the cup holder heating element.
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On the boiler-group flanges there are two connections. The left one goes to the manometer and the right one goes to the gas regulator.
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There are two 1250W heating elements that do not appear to be wired in 3-phase but 1-phase. I will not test them until later.
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-Ryan
I'll throw my portafilter in the ring
LMWDP #612

Markant

#14: Post by Markant » May 08, 2019, 1:48 pm

Seems to be in a pretty good state: you are lucky!

And please don't worry about to much pictures and details about the restoration; there can't be enough of it ....:-) Hopefully I also once will get a go on such a project.....

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IamOiman

#15: Post by IamOiman » May 08, 2019, 2:15 pm

Will do! I have a few other machines waiting for their own threads, including a SM-90 grinder sneaking a look in one of my photos.
-Ryan
I'll throw my portafilter in the ring
LMWDP #612

OldNuc

#16: Post by OldNuc » May 08, 2019, 2:16 pm

Before touching that wiring take lots of pictures and be sure to completely document the switch wiring and which wires on the line power plug, if present connects to which terminals on the switch and heating elements. As that is a 380v with neutral machine the present wiring configuration will be critical to a proper conversion to US 240v split phase with no neutral. The heating element should be marked on the terminal end plate with the rated wattage at the rated voltage. As those are all sheathed wires little sequentially numbered tags so you can ID each individual wire between its termination points.

Those are 220V elements which is correct for the 380 Y connected with neutral distribution. Should swap almost directly to 240 split phase with moderate fiddling.

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IamOiman

#17: Post by IamOiman » May 08, 2019, 2:27 pm

OldNuc wrote:Before touching that wiring take lots of pictures and be sure to completely document the switch wiring and which wires on the line power plug, if present connects to which terminals on the switch and heating elements.
I will definitely be documenting every little nook and cranny in this machine including the wiring. This will be done when I can, and probably when I am back in the US.
-Ryan
I'll throw my portafilter in the ring
LMWDP #612

OldNuc

#18: Post by OldNuc » May 08, 2019, 2:30 pm

No rush, just be very thorough. If that machine has a multi position switch that is just unpleasant to map out if you pull the wiring without lots od as found pix.

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IamOiman

#19: Post by IamOiman » May 08, 2019, 2:34 pm

Well, the good news for that is it's only a one way switch, on or off. It makes a nice satisfying click when I turn it as well. There are three wires running from this switch to the machine, one each to the two heating elements and one to the mercury pressurestat. I will go into more detail when I reach that point.
-Ryan
I'll throw my portafilter in the ring
LMWDP #612

njtnjt

#20: Post by njtnjt » May 08, 2019, 3:50 pm

Awesome project. Thanks for sharing!!!
Cheers!
-Nicholas

LMWDP #414 njtnjt