1958 La Cimbali Gran Luce Automatica (Hydraulic) [Finished] - Page 4

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
austinado16
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#31: Post by austinado16 »

Stopped by to get my mind blown. Was not disappointed!! :shock:

Right on man!!!

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#32: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

Gasket punch and power switch

I received some 3mm and 2mm thick PTFE sheets today, and thus I can demonstrate my fancy gasket punch set. It's a Mayhew Pro 66004 Metric Hollow Punch set, and I am nerding out really hard right because I can cut both the ID and OD in one cut without needing to center anything. It takes a big wack or two but the punches work like a charm. I immediately made a few gaskets 26x20x2mm and 14x8x3mm. The former I'll show later what it goes to (a lot of valves) but the latter is for the one way valve that uses this gasket and a 16mm steel ball. For some odd reason I cannot buy the gasket itself as a spare part, only the gasket and its bushing/seat. It takes some practice but I'm getting the hang of it







I also took apart the power switch. It's a common switch I've seen on other machines like my Pavoni P67 and Cimbali Eleva. This particular one was rusty so it needs cleaning.






I'm in a waiting phase at this point. I already placed parts orders with Eevad and Seals-Direct, and will soon make one with TSE and a Nuova Ricambi distributor once I am confident I figured out all my needed parts. I hate when I already place my order then realize I forgot a part.
-Ryan
Using a spice grinder violates the Geneva Convention
LMWDP #612

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#33: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

Boiler fasteners and body panel disassembly

Due to the unusual square head design of the 3/8" boiler bolts I decided to resuse them. However, one will be replaced since it was not an original to the machine. I can source low tensile steel bolts of this exact size (3/8 UNC x 2" thread, partial with 9/16 square head x 1/4 head depth) so that will not be an issue. I am also sourcing some oversized hex nuts in stainless steel that are comparible in size to the originals.




The second from left bolt was cleaned in my tumbler (which I don't recommend as the mass of this magnetic piece messes with the tumbler magnet). I soaked the other bolts in a derust agent then wire wheeled them along with the boiler bolt washers.



I tackled the body panel assembly next. I took off two little panels on top first, each held by four phillips panhead screws and one phillips oval head screw.






Two brackets towards the front on each side were removed next. Once again there were four phillips panhead screws and one larger slotted screw on the inside.



There are multiple countersunk flathead screws on the bottom, six total for the two hinges and one each for two additional brackets. Some of them were rusted and stuck so they are soaking right now in penetrating oil. They are all secured by speed nuts.



The gold panel is one piece that attaches to the chrome panels via three screws on each side plus the one countersunk screw on the bottom. The panel can then be lifted out from the chrome panels, revealing the decorative light holder missing its light but still having some wiring remnants. There was a nest of some sort found too.







Besides the hinges, the Gran Luce emblem was the last thing to take off the gold panel. The paint was super flakey, so it left me with basically a clean slate to redo the paint as it basically peeled off during removal. There are little cardboard shims for the three screw bushings too.



The chrome assembly is a little awkward to completely disassemble. There are two long threaded rods on each that secure the top blue plexi. They are not easy to remove, and to take off other panels I need to get around the threaded rods. There are a few screws securing the red plexi for the light too, and at least two were found to be stripped already. I am not sure I will go much further in disassembly for the moment.





-Ryan
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austinado16
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#34: Post by austinado16 »

Great work as always! The gasket cutter is outstanding! Thanks for the update.

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#35: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

Thanks

I did a little further probing tonight, and with some force and using a #2 phillips instead of the actual #1 size, I managed to loosen the two stripped screws holding the plexi in place. The screws holding the chrome panels can now be seen better. I am soaking them right now in penetrating oil as they are quite stuck.




I managed to take off one of the adjustment rods too after soaking it in penetrating oil. I could then access the three studs in the recess that hold the triangular side panel. I got two of the three off, but the last one (in the deepest recess towards the rear) unfortunately snapped. It's a really odd t slot stud. There are cars that use similar fasteners called hood trim nuts and perhaps I can find one that fits my #10 studs. After seeing this happening I left the other side soaking in penetrating oil too and called it there for the night.








I also successfully had the boiler manometer recalibrated. I was having trouble removing the gauge needles so I used a company called Gage-It to assist.


Unfortunately the 10kg/cm^2 manometer is permanently broken due to a damaged Bourbon tube and spring damage. I'll have to seek an alternate manometer for now with a diameter of 60mm. I have a potential source in Spain I will try out here https://almacenelectricidad.es/manometr ... n-0_10_bar

-Ryan
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IamOiman (original poster)
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#36: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

I wrapped up the body panel disassembly this morning. Those flathead #10 screws securing the chrome panels were complete suffering to remove. In fact only two of the four came out, two on one side decided to snap off after they both loosened a little even with heat and penetrating oil applied.




Here are the two long rods. They are #10-24 threads on each end and are just over 12" in length (like 12 3/8). New connecting rods are offered in stainless steel but are just a tiny bit shorter at 12" but I am still considering getting those. A few of the flatheads will be replaced just to make sure less fittings go from happy to snappy in the future.



This is how the t screws secure the triangular panels hiding each connector rod. I still need to take out the snapped screws at some point.

-Ryan
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austinado16
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#37: Post by austinado16 »

Ah bummer about those 2 screws snapping. Maybe they'll thread themselves through, using a new drill bit spinning clockwise at a slow/moderate speed. Too bad about that gauge also, but it sounds like you're on target for a correct "new" one.

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#38: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

Hey, at least the snapped bolts are not in blind holes!

Body panel overview
Here is the entire panel assembly laid out (minus the top plexi). Quite a few fasteners are involved, and I am going to replace many of them with stainless equivalents as there was a lot of rust developed over the years on the originals. The majority are #10-24 threads. The panels themselves are in pretty good shape. The light fixture needs some cleaning though. First pic is just for reference.





-Ryan
Using a spice grinder violates the Geneva Convention
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IamOiman (original poster)
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#39: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

Body panel frame painting and broken screw removal

I cleaned off the rust from the body panel frame pieces using Rustoleum Rust Dissolver (I meant to get evaporust but goofed up the order but I made it work out in the end). I got the pieces prepped up and I covered them in a few coats of Rustoleum prime and paint. Honestly they turned out way better than I expected.




I actually took out both screws today. And the more shocking news is I got a Dremel finally. I used it to flatten the tops of each screw, and I was able to remove one by turning the threads clockwise from the bottom using a small pair of vise pliers. The other one required drilling into the screw after attempting to center a punch manually as close to the center as possible. I got pretty good aim as I drilled from 5/64 through 1/8 bits in a pretty concentric hole to the threads. I drilled deep enough I could shear off the bottom of the screw so that a through hole existed. I took that 1/8 drill bit and was able to force out the weakened threads of the screw. That was probably one of the most satisfying moments I've ever had on a project so far. It worked just as Todd/Austinado16 said above.

Going forward I am going to get a center punch set so I don't have to aim manually. This was my first drill and tap!







I cleaned the threads with a tap, and now I have a panel ready for new screws once I clean it up!


-Ryan
Using a spice grinder violates the Geneva Convention
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austinado16
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#40: Post by austinado16 »

Extremely well done with those 2 broken screws!!!