SunSurfH2o wrote:That shot looks amazing Randy! Do you home roast? Single origin or blend?

Do I home roast?! Ya'll must be new 'round these here parts... Yes, home roasted, unknown blend. I throw together what I have as the mood suits me. I took that photo some time ago so can't remember how old the roast was, but normally coffee does not sit for more than about 10 days around here, particularly for espresso. I have changed hat "rule" for slow-cold brew though. I found that allowing the ground coffee to sit for a few hours helps it degas and thus it will not expand so much when brewing. I think that the coffee he was using, being pre-ground, may have had an effect on the crema he produced. It was also a lighter color as well.

Christopher396 wrote:... I've noticed the edge of the round wheel that pushes on the piston starts on the plastic and not on the metal of the disk. Also it ends on the plastic sometimes at the end of a pull.

I have also noted that the roller rolls back and forth across the metal cap as you pull the shot. It seems to be all part of the geometry of the pivot/roller points since the roller must move in an arc. When I had too fine a grind and had to use excessive force (>40lb) I noticed the off-center forces as the roller traverses to the edges of the piston cap caused a cocking of the piston, so I could see where this might eventually lead to a crack up at the top of the piston. It would be interesting to see if the full metal cap would fix this. I know in my case, once I tweaked the grind away from needing the greater push forces, that took care of the cocking.

It will also be interesting to see how the metal piston will change the thermal operation.

Christopher396 wrote:
The only problem I had was the plastic around the outside of the metal disk that's in the top of the piston cracked on one piston and was deformed on the other one I have. I've noticed the edge of the round wheel that pushes on the piston starts on the plastic and not on the metal of the disk. Also it ends on the plastic sometimes at the end of a pull. On the piston where the plastic cracked and broke off a small piece you can take the metal disk out. I think I'm going to take it to work and see if our tool and die guys can make me a stainless steel one where the bottom round fits into the piston normally, but also has a larger top flat machined into over the bottom disk it so that the plastic is covered by metal. That should fix the plastic breaking and mushing.

Chris, is the base tight on your Flair (see photo)? I've found this loosened at one point. if this were loose it would create an alignment issue. I'm curious what your boys in the shop come up with; share photos!


Sergio is already working on steel pistons though. I'm fortunate to have a couple protos in my possession so i can say it's a question is when not is at this point.

SunSurfH2o wrote:.... I don't have the rolling issue he referred to, but then i also take a quick moment to ensure the piston is level and centered every time and he may not be doing that.

Andrew, If your roller isn't rolling back and forth across the top of the piston, then it is somehow magically rocking the piston back and forth to keep the roller centered. The roller is a fixed distance from the pivot point so it moves in an arc around the pivot. It looks like Sergio has it setup where the roller starts in about the middle of the piston top IIRC and then as you begin the pull the roller moves towards the back edge of the piston top (towards the person pulling the shot). Then as you keep going down the roller reaches horizontal with the pivot at which point it then rolls back across the top of the piston towards the front edge of the piston top (away from the person pulling the shot). You can't fool the geometry. This design rolls from one edge of the piston to the other.

SunSurfH2o wrote: Sergio is already working on steel pistons though. I'm fortunate to have a couple protos in my possession so i can say it's a question is when not is at this point.

Cool! Protos from Sergio that you can't talk about or protos you made and we might see you report here soon?

thomasben wrote:Slightly more fine. Just a hair.

Have been fighting with an LPE for ~1 month, especially with light roasts. Added temp strips, basket funnel, proper tamper, etc. Have been close a number of times, but it's fickle.

All that to say, I have taken advantage of the 15% off deal on the flair and ordered one to try side by side. I have a helor (using espresso burr currently), what do your shot parameters look like, and how do they different for lighter roasted SO (if at all).

Thanks,

aaron

Tonefish wrote:Andrew, If your roller isn't rolling back and forth across the top of the piston, then it is somehow magically rocking the piston back and forth to keep the roller centered. The roller is a fixed distance from the pivot point so it moves in an arc around the pivot. It looks like Sergio has it setup where the roller starts in about the middle of the piston top IIRC and then as you begin the pull the roller moves towards the back edge of the piston top (towards the person pulling the shot). Then as you keep going down the roller reaches horizontal with the pivot at which point it then rolls back across the top of the piston towards the front edge of the piston top (away from the person pulling the shot). You can't fool the geometry. This design rolls from one edge of the piston to the other.

I meant to say, i don't have it rolling from edge of plastic and back to edge of plastic. don't have it with me right now but i believe it remains on the disc throughout the motion. i don't see anyone else having issues with cracked plastic so it would suggest alignment issues causing the roller to come into contact with plastic at start and end of motion.

Tonefish wrote:Cool! Protos from Sergio that you can't talk about or protos you made and we might see you report here soon?

from Sergio. he's still tooling but they are functional and lovely! he'll probably end up putting the dual o-ring version into production

boren wrote:Any conclusion about the subject of La Pavoni vs the Flair?

Hi Oren, I have both, and they can both do the same excellent shot once dialed in with good quality coffee of a consistent bean, grind, and freshness. I would say that the Flair is more forgiving on grind consistency as I used it successfully with my Capresso grinder before upgrading to the MG-1. One thing I really like about the LP is having the boiler. There are fewer steps to deal with. I use the LP at home where I can get a quick shot in the morning before cycling to work and do a quick cleanup since I'm near the sink. I'm setting up my Flair at work because I can't take a non UL-listed (my LP is Pre-mil w/ no US recognized safety certs) appliance there. With the Flair I can keep everything in an over-sized cup, using it to do preheats and then to put the spent stuff in after use to haul into the break room kitchen for cleanup. I take a UL-listed electric kettle and I'm set (already have a grinder there). So Oren, I would make the decision based upon the other factors like portability or which of the routines would work better for you .. and of course your budget. If you go towards the more traditional machines a good grinder is also paramount.