Unboxing the Bosco Sorrento - Page 4

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#31: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

3cordcreations wrote:On your pull. I haven't seen this type of stopping half-way before. Did you do that intentionally? I am use to a fairly quick pull all the way down, wait till first drip,( if you want a long pre-infusion) then release lever.

I hope your mates there don't go messing around with that machine. Is this a frat house?
P.S. I like how you referred to the shot as a gosh shot.
Regards,
gosh shot is not quite a god shot but better than a regular shot :wink:

I do not like slamming the lever down too hard but I don't think it really affects the shot too much. Perhaps it was a reaction to when I realized the screw on the spring cap would strike the lever fork. Preinfusion I just did what I was taught in my barista course of about 4-6 seconds for preinfusion and it works well for me so far. I did it for longer on my home levers, about 10-15 seconds usually. It's just my preference but I can try it the other way where you just lift down the lever fully.

My three roommates are quite well vetted. I've known two since freshmen year (of which one was my roommate then as well and the other was next to me) and the third since Sophomore year. All of them I trust completely and it is a school dorm I will be living in. We are also in the same major so we took many classes together anyways!
-Ryan
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Phaedrus
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#32: Post by Phaedrus »

JohnB. wrote:It's a single spring group whereas the Pro 800 is a dual spring set up. The single group Boscos peak at just over 8 bar pressure.
This is interesting, I wonder why Profitec needs two springs. This video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QB-6DgldRnM) shows the Pro800 peaking at just about 9 bar.

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#33: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

One thing I did not show was how I setup my outlets. I did mention I had a dedicated 20A GFCI outlet installed (the one in the picture was 15A but that was fixed later in the day), but here is how that and the included dining room 20A outlet is arranged, the former on top of the latter. Having two outlets on different circuits will help me greatly when I have my 800W Eureka in the house!


I also have a 2.5kW rated mechanical timer where the machine turns itself off around 8pm at night then turns on again at 5:00 am so the machine is fully warmed up when I get up at 6:30-7:00 am. It works pretty well for me so far and eliminates an additional step in my morning routine of turning on the machine manually and waiting for about 90 minutes.


And finally an affogato to conclude this evening!
-Ryan
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3cordcreations
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#34: Post by 3cordcreations »

Nice!
What Eureka are you getting? I don't remember seeing that. Zenith?

Are you planning on obtaining a bottomless pf? It will give you more space and let you see how your puck prep is.

Nice set-up!
A three cord strand is not easily broken...

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#35: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

I already have a Eureka Olympus but it is in a storage unit right now. It will be brought back out when I move back to college for senior year! I purchased it used from a fellow HB user last November and used it for junior year (this is only photo I have of the grinder on me atm). I've considered a bottomless portafilter for those sexy photos but honestly I do not mind the spouts too much. If I were to pick, I would actually purchase another regular portafiler as I have a triple spout I want to experiment with since I never see those.


-Ryan
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Balthazar_B
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#36: Post by Balthazar_B »

IamOiman wrote:One thing I did not show was how I setup my outlets. I did mention I had a dedicated 20A GFCI outlet installed (the one in the picture was 15A but that was fixed later in the day), but here is how that and the included dining room 20A outlet is arranged, the former on top of the latter.
Did you get that 20A circuit wired with 12 or 10 gauge wire? If not, you *may* encounter some issues if you plug in something that will actually draw all that amperage at peak, especially over any kind of distance from your panel and circuit breakers.

http://thecircuitdetective.com/basic_house_wiring.php

FWIW, we hired an electrician to pull a dedicated circuit with appropriate wiring to where the Bosco gulps its juice. We also installed NEMA 5-20 plug and receptacle to make sure the Bosco wouldn't get plugged in to a 15A circuit by accident (especially if it's shared).
- John

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#37: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

I was originally going to have a 10 gauge circuit installed, but my electrician told me that I would not be following the National Electric Code/NFPA 70, where it states that for a 30A circuit I would need the corresponding outlet rated for 30A (this would apply to any other value as well). They are not allowed to do anything breaking code so I followed their advice. The outlets the electricians had available for 30A were only rotary plugs (ie you push in the prongs then turn them to lock it in the outlet) and the cost for that was double that for a 20A circuit. And that was before I provided my own code-compliant wiring that came from when the house was built which lowered costs even more. I installed a 20A Nema 5-20p plug (the horizontal and vertical prong setup), which can only be inserted in the 20A outlet. Fortunately from the panelboard they used only 13 feet of wiring to reach my outlet as the room it was installed in is adjacent to the room where the panelboard resides under in the basement. The two outlets you see are on separate breakers, the one above with GFCI protection being the only outlet on a 20A breaker and is just for the Bosco.

Here is the plug I use so that I do not accidently plug the Bosco into a 15A circuit just like you did!
-Ryan
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3cordcreations
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#38: Post by 3cordcreations »

And as many equipment sales companies recommend, a quality high rated surge protector if using a timer...
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OldNuc
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#39: Post by OldNuc »

The regular 12-2 w/ground is rated for a continuous 20A load and using #10 is just an additional expense unless you are trying to correct excessive voltage drop and the 20a rated receptacles are not designed to accept #10 wire which is another issue. Those twist lock receptacles are expensive but they are also near bullet proof.

Most local codes now require strict adherence to the NEC.

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IamOiman (original poster)
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#40: Post by IamOiman (original poster) »

I took a class in college just on building electrical systems with the NEC/NFPA 70, with my final project requiring me to design a code compliant setup for a kitchen event place. All of my tests were open book exams (which was the 2017 NEC) and I still thought the exams were tedious. In Rhode Island the electricians are required to MEMORIZE the entire book for their trade. It's insane the volume of codes in the book they need to know.
-Ryan
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