Tips for removing La Pavoni old style boiler flange? - Page 2

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toddmp (original poster)

#11: Post by toddmp (original poster) »

Just to confirm this threads on counter clockwise right?? sorry I am losing my mind a bit with frustration. I exerted enough pressure to bend both of the bolts I had in. I stopped before I stripped them out and fussed up the brass holes too much. I will try threading one back in and using a dulled punch to try and hammer the flange in a counterclockwise motion. If that fails I will break out the neighbors torch and try and heat the thing and try all the above while the flange is hot.

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erics
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#12: Post by erics »

Just to confirm this threads on counter clockwise right??
I would think not . . . at least I do not recall reading this anywhere.

To remove the flange, you would turn it counterclockwise.
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

DanoM

#13: Post by DanoM »

Has anyone ever tried to make a tool from steel water pipe before?

Looks like the boiler base OD might be around 3" and a 3" schedule 40 black pipe has an ID of just barely over 3". If the pipe will slip over the base then you can cut some vertical grooves for your bolts, slip this over the base and use a pipe wrench to unscrew. (Schedule 10 is a little thinner wall and greater ID.)
LMWDP #445

toddmp (original poster)

#14: Post by toddmp (original poster) »

erics wrote:I would think not . . . at least I do not recall reading this anywhere.

To remove the flange, you would turn it counterclockwise.
thanks for the clarification. that is what I meant but not what I typed!

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erics
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#15: Post by erics »

You really need some good dimensions to find the right tool but something like this should do the trick:



Do a google search on "socket pin spanner". You really want to use something that allows you to apply a removal torque on both pins and be as close to the flange as reasonable.
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

toddmp (original poster)

#16: Post by toddmp (original poster) »

Success! Over the weekend I drained the pen-oil I had it sitting in and tapped around the flange gently but firmly with a deadblow hammer and a very dull old screwdriver up against a bolt inserted into one of the holes. After about 20 minutes I noted some movement! I kept at it and all finally came off. those black plastic gaskets were rock hard and FUSED to the boiler on both sides. The threads on the boiler were also a spattering of chrome plate and raw brass which did not make for a smooth threading of the two parts together.



perfectwheels

#17: Post by perfectwheels »

excellent!

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drgary
Team HB

#18: Post by drgary »

I now find myself in this actual situation. I tried a punch inside the pin holes after using penetrating oil and got no movement. I also tried putting the group in a vise, padded by multiple towels so I could turn the base. Still no movement. But seeing those hardened gaskets suggests that a torch may make faster work of this. The machine is a 1972 Europiccola version 1.6. If necessary I'll tap the existing holes or may drill new ones and thread in bolts to get a grip.

Gary
LMWDP#308

What I WOULD do for a good cup of coffee!

forbeskm

#19: Post by forbeskm »

I built a spanner for just this flange, picked up some rod and drilled through a spare piece of aluminum channel and it came right off. I'd post a picture tomorrow, link is http://mikeofallthings.com/2015/06/18/r ... e-spanner/

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crazy4espresso

#20: Post by crazy4espresso »

I also have a 1972 Europiccola and it was a real challenge to remove the boiler flange at first. I let it soak in penetrating oil for a couple of days and tried a variety of methods, save a proper spanner tool, and ultimately was successful with a hammer and punch, but the key was to hammer it both ways, in a tightening/loosening pattern, to break it free. Give it some nice wacks both ways and it should budge. Good luck.
"I would rather suffer with coffee than be senseless." — Napoleon Bonaparte
LMWDP #427