Supply fittings for Aurora Brugnetti - Page 2

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kalo925 (original poster)

#11: Post by kalo925 (original poster) »

samuellaw178 wrote:It actually sounds like you may not have a problem with your screen/water distribution. I don't think water leaking past the side/claws is that severe of an issue nor is detrimental to the shot... So a mesh screen...

I am guessing your piston wasn't screwed in completely to the piston rod (assuming our machines are the same). Mine certainly did not protrude down and the piston sat about 0.5mm above the lips (below). You might have come across video too? Pardon the horrible quality/lighting :oops:
I don't know why I called that screen I linked "mesh". Brain fart... :lol: I might hold off for now. Yes, maybe the slight leakage at those claw gaps is actually a design. There aren't holes near the edge of the shower screen, so those gaps could put a little water at the edge. Hard to know if designed or not. I think I had a couple claws that were bent up too much, so might have had a couple places that had excess water around the side. It's hard to get it back in to shape with a hammer. The right kind of pliers would be helpful too. One needs a line of metalsmithing tools to do a great restoration of machines like this. Unfortunately I don't want to buy new tools really. In a downsizing mode... Really wish I had a metal lathe and ability to machine parts too though! Admire those that can make parts.

It's possible that my piston was not completely screwed in, but also where the lever handle rests at the top, that allen screw was completely inserted and didn't provide a stop for the handle/piston positioning. I positioned that screw out about 3/16ths and that raised up the bottom of the piston to level with the bottom edge of the cylinder. My piston is indeed not tight as I can turn it by hand. I used some plastic zip ties to hold the spring compressed and was going to remove the piston, but the ties I had were fairly small and probably didn't have enough on, so I didn't continue. Will get the right plan/tool for removing the spring.

That allen screw really gouges in to the back of the lever handle too. I took a thumb tack with some foam on the pin (cut down a little)and placed it there so the end of the screw won't continue to gouge the handle. Might make something better, but it works for now.

Thanks!

kalo925 (original poster)

#12: Post by kalo925 (original poster) »

Ordered parts from three different suppliers and the sight glass seals, boiler gasket came today. Nice parts sourced from Nuova Ricambi in Italy.

I cleaned the boiler/group gaskets surfaces up pretty well and will get a parts cleaner to remove any other bits of material that might be left. I have a question about the flange groove near the inside and it's purpose. On the original gasket I removed there is a white circle on the gasket from that groove and it's raised, which makes sense if it was in the groove, but not so clear how it is there. Was that white circle on the original gasket (doesn't seem likely) or was some white compound put in the grooves (there is a groove on the boiler flange too) and thereby it's stuck and transferred to the gasket on removal..?? I'm not to concerned about it, but curious and not sure.

For the sight glass seals, those are a bit tricky as several parts suppliers list them, keeping the same part numbers as the old seal, but mostly they are for newer models Brugnetti machines and didn't have dimensions listed. One website updated their listing with my prompt. "Flat Epdm Gasket Ø 21x11.5x5 Mm". The seal that is needed is shown on the Nuova Ricambi website as SIGHT LEVEL GLASS "RUBBER" GASKET - Ø 18x11,3x12mm - BRUGNETTI, available from SproParts.

The spring cleaned up pretty well and measures at 125mm which makes it likely an original. Would be nice to know it's rate, but not sure if we have anyone around my area that could test it accurately. With my La Rivera spring I played around pushing it with my foot about an inch on a scale and seemed to be reasonably accurate. Might try that again with this one. Time to dig out the old Health-O-meter scale from the shed. :) And the most important thing about an original spring is the piston can be removed without the spring being compressed. I wish I had known that as I spent some time thinking to build a tool and then went with metal zip ties to keep the spring compressed a bit. After the fact found I could put the piston back on by hand. :D

If anyone has any ideas about the groove in the boiler/group flanges I'd love to know your thoughts. Thanks!


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kalo925 (original poster)

#13: Post by kalo925 (original poster) »

Ended up needing to open up the boiler on this AB.

The U-tube heat exchanger had a leak on one side. Removing the Hx nut there was no sealant or gasket material outside. After opening the boiler (a few broken studs is another issue now) the gasket inside was like a graphite/carbon fiber one which seemed way too big really as it overlapped the edge of a nice inset seating surface. The heating element also had a fault of some sort (might have been resolved - and another story) and found a possible date of 1988 on the element - 110v/1500w. So I'm guessing that was the last time the boiler was open.

Anyway I wanted to post and ask about using a copper crush washer inside in place of the fiber style gasket. Or, possibly a PTFE gasket could be used?? I got a 21 x 27 mm copper crush washer locally (had put it on the outside with teflon tape on threads as a temp fix for the leak -see photos) That crush washer is about 1.3 mm deep and thinking it might be a good option. I see some other copper crush washers that are thicker around 22 x 27 x 2mm (mostly in UK?) That might be better if I can get some. What does everyone think about these copper washers for placing inside to seal the U-tube hx and smaller ones to seal the heating element??

I've made a lot of videos while doing repairs etc. Not sure if I will upload them all or do a channel, but here is one (unlisted for now) I made which was the second time I tried to pull a shot, first time after putting the machine back together. Let me know what you think. Thanks!