Doug! Thank you very much, (very much) for helping me. It seems to me that regardless of what I decide to do via 20amp/30amp circuit, I should plan on wiring everything for 30A (except the power cord, and upgrading to 30A Sirai if need be). This will give me more options in the future should I decide to use this for more than just home use.orphanespresso wrote:The wiring inside the machine can be 10 gauge for the heating element and 12 gauge for everything else (14 will actually surpass the amp rating but will look skimpy next to the 10). Spade terminals will work but eyelets are better as they never loosen. Teflon coated wire is very nice to work with and can be gotten on ebay in small quantities and various gauges...easier to find than silicone coated, at least for me.
Teflon coated wire: I've been searching off and on through most of the day, eBay and elsewhere. I've learned that Teflon coating also goes by the name (generic?) PTFE, and that it is used in body piercings, but I have not found a supplier with less quantity to sell than 25 feet. McMaster-Carr sells by the foot, but they don't seem to carry it in 10 gauge rated for 30A. Speaking of which, I'm quite certain that I'm making a mistake on this one - should these individual wires be rated so highly? The power cord, certainly. And, if not 30A for the heating element <--> pstat, then what?
As mentioned earlier, there is a dizzying array of choices for each category; Conductor Type; Conductor Material; Conductor Insulation Material; Jacket Material; Jacket Color.
"Your wiring scheme" is exactly that - my thoughts as to what is happening with the current. If I'm wrong, or something could be better, please let me know.orphanespresso wrote: The switch from your wiring scheme sounds like a double pole double throw and can be anything from a simple toggle to more elaborate.
I don't know what a double pole double throw is (exactly, other than a switch) - at least not much more than what I read today online after seeing your post. I do know that if you Google double pole double throw espresso - a switch from your site comes up first.
Did you means to say: Good idea to NOT lose the gicar.. I plan on keeping it, but it seems that it would be an easier electrical project if I left it in safe storage.orphanespresso wrote:
Good idea to lose the gicar as that is one of the more expensive parts to replace. The block junction just acts as a bridge and you insert the stripped wire and tighten the screws....make sure to clean it out well so it does not become a mini heating element!
Again, thank you, Doug. There are some installation items in your post that I did not address, but for now, I just want to get the proper wires and fittings ordered.
If you happen to look around your shop and see the different wires that I need, feel free to throw them in a box and charge me the going rate (plus) for your expertise and help.