Profitec Pro 800 Lever w/PID - Page 25

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pizzaman383
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#241: Post by pizzaman383 »

All exposed groups like the Londinium and the Pro 800 are designed to bleed off heat in between shots as brew water temperature going into the group is hotter than the group head and the desired shot temperature. The dipper water path and the thermosyphon keep the group head near to the proper temperature but they don't work perfectly.

If you want your first shot to taste the same as your second and third shots you need to make a sink shot or simulate a shot using something that flows water with nearly the same flow rate as a real shot to bring the water path and the group head to the same thermodynamic position as they will be at the end of a real shot. I have experimented extensively and for me this is the only thing that makes all the shots I make in a row taste very similar.
Curtis
LMWDP #551
“Taste every shot before adding milk!”

ajay
Posts: 10
Joined: 9 years ago

#242: Post by ajay »

With the Pro 800, I found that during our summer months, the group can get a bit over what I consider an optimal operating temperature, after being idle for a few hours. I have an adhesive temperature strip on the front of the group and I know if it reads 75°C all will be good - edging towards 80°C, less so.

A simple solution is to drop the boiler temperature a few degrees while the machine is not in use, then bump it back up to operating temperature before prepping the shot. The PID makes this a quick, easy, accurate and consistent operation. I am using a boiler setpoint of 120°C, so if the machine is idle, I will drop it to 117°C and the temp strip shows 75°C solid green. With winter upon us now, this is no longer necessary.

Pushjerk
Posts: 64
Joined: 7 years ago

#243: Post by Pushjerk »

Good day, Pro800 users.

I've read some notes here and there, but just can't shake this uneasy feeling that I need to be doing more to maintain my Pro800.

I truly enjoy that behind me are the days of back flushing and soaking shower screens to clean out the accumulated fines and oil and gunk on my previous gear. But I get this feeling like I need to be doing more to maintain the health and optimal performance or the Pro800.

My routine is always followed by a cleaning flush with portafilter loosely held agains the group head to wash away any left behind grounds, and at least once a day the group head gasket and shower screen are hit with a brush - and of course the necessary steam wand purges. Beyond that, some periodic wand tip cleaning, and keeping the external surfaces nice and shiny, I haven't done any maintenance on the machine since purchasing in March of 2018.

Of note, Crystal Geyser bottled water only is used.

How's everyone else doing?

maxbmello
Posts: 510
Joined: 10 years ago

#244: Post by maxbmello »

Sounds about right. You could drop your dispersion screen and soak in Cafiza if you want a little more clean. You could also pull the piston and lube the seals with dow111 if you are getting any slipping..

But that's one of the beauties of this machine/design - very low maintenance!

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master_photog
Posts: 7
Joined: 5 years ago

#245: Post by master_photog »

I looked thru the 25 pages on the Profitec Pro 800 Thread and I haven't seen any questions or comments about my situation....

Hopefully other beginners can benefit from my asking as well.

I was curious if this would be a good machine for a never before espresso machine user? I've been drinking espresso and lattes exclusively for many years (no French Press, Coffee Bag, Electric Percolator, Chemex, etc.).

I spent some time in Germany (early 90s) while in the military and hung around quality coffee houses that knew their stuff. They had multiple espresso machines and always made me a fantastic espresso and/or latte.

From then on, I could always tell whether or not I had a good espresso in my hand.

So, the only thing I have going for me, is that I know what's good and what's not.

I gravitate toward the Pro800 because it reminds me of the machines in Germany, all the baristas were intimately involved with their machines, not much automation going on.

I find it harder and harder to find quality shops that can replicate what I experienced. On occasion I can, but it's becoming few and far between. Since my travels have lessened, so have my options on finding quality places.

Would this be a unit to consider for someone with no background or hardware?

Thank you

IMAWriter
Posts: 3472
Joined: 19 years ago

#246: Post by IMAWriter »

ajay wrote:With the Pro 800, I found that during our summer months, the group can get a bit over what I consider an optimal operating temperature, after being idle for a few hours. I have an adhesive temperature strip on the front of the group and I know if it reads 75°C all will be good - edging towards 80°C, less so.

A simple solution is to drop the boiler temperature a few degrees while the machine is not in use, then bump it back up to operating temperature before prepping the shot. The PID makes this a quick, easy, accurate and consistent operation. I am using a boiler setpoint of 120°C, so if the machine is idle, I will drop it to 117°C and the temp strip shows 75°C solid green. With winter upon us now, this is no longer necessary.
For summer use, you could do the 'La Pavoni trick"..just have a cool damp cloth and drape it over the group maybe 15 seconds. I'd do that over messing around with your PID. YMMV

LObin
Posts: 1827
Joined: 7 years ago

#247: Post by LObin »

master_photog wrote:I looked thru the 25 pages on the Profitec Pro 800 Thread and I haven't seen any questions or comments about my situation....

Hopefully other beginners can benefit from my asking as well.

I was curious if this would be a good machine for a never before espresso machine user? I've been drinking espresso and lattes exclusively for many years (no French Press, Coffee Bag, Electric Percolator, Chemex, etc.).

I spent some time in Germany (early 90s) while in the military and hung around quality coffee houses that knew their stuff. They had multiple espresso machines and always made me a fantastic espresso and/or latte.

From then on, I could always tell whether or not I had a good espresso in my hand.

So, the only thing I have going for me, is that I know what's good and what's not.

I gravitate toward the Pro800 because it reminds me of the machines in Germany, all the baristas were intimately involved with their machines, not much automation going on.

I find it harder and harder to find quality shops that can replicate what I experienced. On occasion I can, but it's becoming few and far between. Since my travels have lessened, so have my options on finding quality places.

Would this be a unit to consider for someone with no background or hardware?

Thank you
I do not own a pro 800 but I have the same group on my Londinium 1. Here's my 2 cents:
-If you fancy a lever then go for it! Otherwise you may (no WILL) regret it.
-A lever machine implies somewhat of a learning curve but there will be a learning curve no matter what machine you get. Unless you go superautomatic...
-The PID will make it a lot easier to manage temperature which is always tricky.
-It's a simple machine and quite forgiving when you know your way around it.
-It will make a remarkable espresso.
-You will need a good grinder. Obviously.
-I would also suggest looking into a Londinium R. No PID but potentially more temp stable while allowing for a higher preinfusion pressure. Similar price. Two very solid machines.
LMWDP #592

HRC-E.B.
Posts: 162
Joined: 6 years ago

#248: Post by HRC-E.B. »

Very interested in a good spring lever machine. The reports seem to suggest that shot quality is unmatched and that even the uber expensive high grade machines in the 5 figures can at best emulate it somewhat.

A few questions however:

1. How does one stop a shot on a Pro 800? How do you control shot volume? How large an espresso can it make? 30g? 35g? 40g?

2. JohnB provides instructions for increasing shot temp. However, how does one decrease it if it's too high? All the suggestions seem to rest on the assumption that the group will always idle somewhere below optimum extraction temperature, such that it will "come up" to temp through shot pulling or flushing in normal use. Is that always the case?

Other than size/space requirement and the significantly higher price than a dual boiler from the same company, it sounds like there is no downside to this compared to, say, a Pro 700?

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Balthazar_B (original poster)
Posts: 1726
Joined: 18 years ago

#249: Post by Balthazar_B (original poster) »

HRC-E.B. wrote:Very interested in a good spring lever machine. The reports seem to suggest that shot quality is unmatched and that even the uber expensive high grade machines in the 5 figures can at best emulate it somewhat.

A few questions however:

1. How does one stop a shot on a Pro 800? How do you control shot volume? How large an espresso can it make? 30g? 35g? 40g?
One pulls the cup away when the shot volume (weight) is correct. The grind/basket determines the rate of flow, so not very difficult to tailor the overall shot to the coffee. I have a Bosco, not a Profitec, but FWIW my grouphead can pull 40g normales easily, and I'd expect the Profitec to do the same, though I generally pull singles or the occasional double.
2. JohnB provides instructions for increasing shot temp. However, how does one decrease it if it's too high? All the suggestions seem to rest on the assumption that the group will always idle somewhere below optimum extraction temperature, such that it will "come up" to temp through shot pulling or flushing in normal use. Is that always the case?
There are some variables that play a part, e.g., boiler temperature and ambient room temperature. If you judge the temp you're pulling at to be too high, you can lower the boiler temp and/or put a cold portafilter on the grouphead to draw off temp before pulling the shot. Alternatively, you can throw a damp rag on the grouphead, which will cool it. When getting accustomed to your machine, you may find a temp strip or thermocouple to be helpful.
Other than size/space requirement and the significantly higher price than a dual boiler from the same company, it sounds like there is no downside to this compared to, say, a Pro 700?
Can't say, but personally I prefer how a lever pulls shots to how most pump machines do so. Now if you go into Slayer territory it's possible to sort of emulate the behavior of a lever machine in terms of dynamic pressure/temp effects.

Hope this helps!
- John

LMWDP # 577

LObin
Posts: 1827
Joined: 7 years ago

#250: Post by LObin »

HRC-E.B. wrote:Very interested in a good spring lever machine. The reports seem to suggest that shot quality is unmatched and that even the uber expensive high grade machines in the 5 figures can at best emulate it somewhat.

A few questions however:

1. How does one stop a shot on a Pro 800? How do you control shot volume? How large an espresso can it make? 30g? 35g? 40g?

2. JohnB provides instructions for increasing shot temp. However, how does one decrease it if it's too high? All the suggestions seem to rest on the assumption that the group will always idle somewhere below optimum extraction temperature, such that it will "come up" to temp through shot pulling or flushing in normal use. Is that always the case?

Other than size/space requirement and the significantly higher price than a dual boiler from the same company, it sounds like there is no downside to this compared to, say, a Pro 700?
When comparing my HX lever (Bezzera B3000AL) to my actual Londinium 1 which is an opened loop thermosiphon (preinfusion at boiler pressure) it was much easier to pull larger volume shots with a higher PI (2-3 bars / light-medium roasts). I do however prefer the Londinium group which is pretty much identical to the Pro 800's. Temperature management is a breeze on Londinium's. No warming or cooling flush required. Have you considered the LR? I believe the new PI module is stock now. Haven't had a shot from the Profitec though.
LMWDP #592