Post maintenance advice needed.

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MAXTHEDOG
Posts: 26
Joined: 3 months ago

#1: Post by MAXTHEDOG »

Hi All,
Bit of an essay so TLDR:
Is the arm in the correct place, and if not how do I get it back.
I'm a novice Europiccola owner, I forgot to replenish the water in the tank and had a bit of an 'incident' with the shower screen. Before I'd noticed the lack of water and resistance in the arm there was a 'pop' and the shower screen had partially dropped from its usual place.
So, turned it off let it cool and rather than grapple with the group still on the boiler I removed the arm and the two bolts and took the group off. Got the screen and the gasket out. Cleaned the both up, checked the gasket and put them both back in.
While I had all this out I noticed the pipe that sits in the boiler had a few threads showing so I screwed it in until there were no threads left showing. All back together, arm on and test. No problems with temperature and pressure but I seem to need to do more than one pull now to get up to the mark on the glass as per the pictures below.
They show the arm post all of the above at its highest and lowest points of travel and the pressure gauge and the test shot after the two pulls.
I'll add that the pressure and temp are immediately after the green neon light went off. I'm assuming that the control pressure 'stat turning off.
Any advice and guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Michael.







Michael
LMWDP #758.

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ei8htohms
Posts: 142
Joined: 6 months ago

#2: Post by ei8htohms »

If you removed the piston from the grouphead, you may need to adjust the height of nut/limiter at the top of the piston shaft. There are videos online that can show you how to do that so that you're getting maximum travel from the piston when pulling a shot (you wanted it to be able to just kiss the shower screen when all the way down).

If you detached the piston from it's shaft, be sure that is 100% screwed back in, as that can limit the flow of water into the grouphead when filling the chamber and create spongey, low yield shots.

To me, that pressure looks slightly low, but probably not critically. My machine (Lusso Pro) came stock running 0.75-0.8 bar more or less and I now run it closer to 0.8-0.9 bar. I've heard of folks going up to 1.2 bar for pulling shots even. Probably a non-issue, but thought I'd mention it.
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MAXTHEDOG (original poster)
Posts: 26
Joined: 3 months ago

#3: Post by MAXTHEDOG (original poster) »

Hi,
Thanks for your quick reply.
I didn't remove the piston from the GH or took the piston off the shaft.
I've since had another look at it and I'm pretty sure I put the arm back on upside down as you look at the two bolt holes. I also noticed that the tube in the boiler has a crack in it:



So looks like an order to coffee sense is coming his way. While I'm changing that I'll do the plastic mount that it sits in.
I did wonder about the pressure reading but since they don't come with a calibration certificate I was a bit reluctant to mess with it. From what you say it sounds a common mod to do.
Cheers,
Michael z
Michael
LMWDP #758.

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ei8htohms
Posts: 142
Joined: 6 months ago

#4: Post by ei8htohms »

The lever on yours is not upside down as best I can tell. Do a quick Google image search and you'll find that orientation to be correct (I don't have my machine in front of me).

Presumably that crack in the dipper tube is of some concern, so hopefully replacing it will make it right as rain.

I upgraded mine with a dual pressostat (and double switch) so I can use 0.8 bar for espresso and 1.5 bar for steaming. It required some rewiring and whatnot but I'm delighted I did it. Simply changing the pressostat is pretty straightforward on the other hand and they do sometimes fail.

The modern pressostats can be adjusted still, but not as liberally as the earlier versions reportedly. You want to set it with small adjustments of the set screw and not fiddle with it extensively. They don't like frequent or large adjustments allegedly.
LMWDP #751

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yakster
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#5: Post by yakster »

The lever is installed correctly, with the forward hole lower than the one in back.
-Chris

LMWDP # 272

MAXTHEDOG (original poster)
Posts: 26
Joined: 3 months ago

#6: Post by MAXTHEDOG (original poster) »

Thanks both of you for your help.
Found a shot of the EP and it does show the front hole lowest.
Dipper pipe and brass threaded widget ordered.

Cheers
Michael
LMWDP #758.

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mrgnomer
Posts: 974
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#7: Post by mrgnomer »

The lever lowest point limit is made with the top screw. If I remember right the limit should be adjusted to just before the piston hits the showerscreen.
Kirk
LMWDP #116
professionals do it for the pay, amateurs do it for the love

MAXTHEDOG (original poster)
Posts: 26
Joined: 3 months ago

#8: Post by MAXTHEDOG (original poster) »

Thank you Kirk for that.
It seems to be working ok now. When the pipe and connector arrive I'll have a look after I've fitted them.
Cheers,
Michael.
Michael
LMWDP #758.

toolate
Posts: 281
Joined: 7 years ago

#9: Post by toolate »

Can you explain the process for doing that upgrade that you did or is it pretty straightforward?

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ei8htohms
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#10: Post by ei8htohms »

If you're referring to the dual pressostat modification, the La Pavoni / Olympia Enthusiasts and Tech group by Coffee Sensor on Facebook has the instructions docs in their files section.

https://facebook.com/groups/lapavonienthusiastsgroup/
LMWDP #751