I have a leak from the fitting connecting the pstat to the bend going up to the frame. Since this is a fitting without ring or gasket, I guess it just need to fit well. I cleaned it thoroughly, if anything it leaks more!

Now I suspect that the fitting is not quite right. The nut doesn't turn very evenly when I screw it down, and sits awkwardly:



Although I really tried to fasten it straight and carefully (and tight).

Any suggestions what is going on here?

If I need to change the bend (assuming that this is the issue) I would not be sure where to source it, or what the exact specs would be. (I'm in Switzerland so I guess at least I am in metric world).

Thank you for your diagnostics!
Nicolas

Tschou Nicolas,

This is a very classic P-stat, i'd do anything to keep it working, they are very reliable, and very accurate.

the thread on which the bend goes, is part of the copper bellow, which is VERY sensitive and delicate. you might find a new bend (and maybe even a new bellow) at migg frei's shop.

those fittings rely on the soft copper to be crushed a little bit. it does not flex back, and after x times opening and closing, they start to leak.

you can try to apply some teflon tape (you'll find it in Migros or Jumbo shops) and wrap it around the end of the pipe, as well as the threads. this should stop it from leaking.

have you tested the range of your pstat? are you refurbishing this machine, or did you already had it running? if refurbishing, it might be a good time to check if the spring still has enough tension (if they go weak, you'll only be able to adjust pressures way below 1 bar. if you shorten it a coil winding or two, it becomes stiffer, and operates at higher pressures. the switch is also a very common thing, and could be replaced if necessary (new switches usually have smaller switching treshold, makeing the pstat even more accurate...))

if everything fails, you can pop in a MATER pstat. but the olympia ones are the ones i prefer...

Good Luck!
Send some more pictures!

Thank you Nino!

Good call on the teflon tape. Meanwhile I saw that the guru at OE has this on one of his videos, it seems he covered every case study: And I found a teflon tape roll in my drawer so I'll try this tomorrow or as soon as work permits!

Just for viewing pleasure, two more pics of this beautiful pstat:




Actually I started a full rebuild, exchanging all seals and gaskets, thanks again to OE! The boiler gasket was particularly worth the sight:



It let water corrupt the bolts, so on my to-do list is still a broken bolt that literally merged with the brass of the boiler:



Though currently it is tight on 5 bolts and a new gasket, but I'll have to extract it somehow. I saw ample user experience with this issue on HB...

A last problem I have is the two copper crush washers. The originals were tight (but now not reusable):



but the new ones are less so... progressive tightening because of minor leaks only crushed them sideways:



Probably I need to source new copper crush washers and try once more.

All other seals successfully replaced, sight tube replaced. I'll keep you posted for the final steps if I succeed!
Nicolas

It might be a good idea to anneal the copper tube. Working copper makes it get hard and difficult to bend or to conform in compression fittings. Annealing softens the copper.

Before you start handling the boiler for the broken bolt, get rid of the asbestos. Doug & Barb at OE have this task also covered... just soak the disassembled boiler in a tub of water, and you can peel off the asbestos without it dusting off, and messing with your lungs.
pack the wet asbestos chunks in an old tupperware container, seal it, and bring it to a recycling center.

with some luck, a nice, shiny nickel plated boiler appears underneath the asbestos...

for the crushwasher:
dont anneal the crushwasher, it is filled with fiber or rubber. also, dont overtighten it, as the thread on the steam valve is very sensitive.
just snug it up so that it is tight, but no more. make sure it stays centered for the first couple of revolutions, so that it does not squeeze out on one side...

it also makes sense to fabricate some sort of 'roof' for the switch, as every leaking water from the steam valve will drop directly onto the electrics, filling up the switch housing, shorting out the switch upon turning on, and diminishing the already scarce availability of olympia switches...

build some sort of drip water deflector, and you should be fine...

Nice machine BTW! you also have the weird power plug on the side, so it must be a very early Cremina 67... Send a picture of the assembled machine, if you can...!

Updates!

There is something off with this fitting between the pstat and the bend, though I cannot quite figure it out, but the nut does not turns perfectly, it is very slightly off-axis. But the good news is that with a good wrapping of teflon tape, it is now perfectly tight.



As to the copper crush washers that I also couldn't get completely tight, I followed the advice from OE (belatedly!) and replaced them both with a teflon seal. I added flat copper washers to compress the seals:




I'm getting there! a first test shows no leak. The 1st gen boiler cap also deserved a full retightening



Next on my to-do list: the broken boiler bolt. So far everything is tight thanks to a new gasket and balanced tightening with stainless bolts to avoid a repeat of this:



Although I kinda liked the ribs on the bolt heads, I did not find that (the new ones have smooth heads). I wonder what is the original Olympia spec.

Also I plan to look into Sw1ssdude's suggestions. Regarding the boiler insulation, does it really contain asbestos? It is a very soft spray-on foam, not the cement-like coating that seems more common. (The machine is from 1970 if this is of any help identifying the material). No question that it is aesthetically horrible though...

Nicolas

Before launching into the remaining work, I needed to have my first ever lever coffee! With a look back at the long and winding road there:



Now I need to practice. Until now my routine was always a very short espresso in a double gasket for E61 groups, which clocks in at 16g, so it will take practice to use the small Cremina basket with the comparatively large amount of water provided by the lever group.

As long as the boiler insulation is not dusty and flaking off you could leave it on. There is no sure way of telling if the insulation contains asbestos or not since they used different materials throughout the years. But I usually take it off when I disassemble the machine anyway just to be safe.
When I use the cremina I put 12 to 14 grams in the double basket which usually gives me the best results. After some time you get a good feeling for the amount of resistance a certain grind size for your coffee beans is right. The cremina needs some management for the right brew temperature. You have to heat the group and portafilter but have to watch out not letting it get too hot. I usually turn the machine off again after pulling shot because it gets too hot for darker roasts pretty fast.

You can fit a PTFE (Teflon) disc between the boiler and the group head, to reduce heat transfer to the grouphead. Or silicone with a high shore hardness?

For the bolts: they are stainless steel, if they were zinc plated, the heads would look much worse. the Olympia Club has bolts with brass washers, the creminas don't. i suggest adding those washers (for the guy who will 'restore' your cremina in 50+ years... the bolts will come out much easier)

both smooth and ribbed bolts are standard ISO 912 bolts. the ribbed head is an option (usually on black anodized, zinc plated or bare steel bolts. can also be found on Stainless steel A2/A4). For suppliers in Switzerland, look into Hasler, SFS Unimarket or Kohler online shop. they might have stainless steel ribbed bolts.

for the insulation:
remove it under water ESPECIALLY if you dont know whether ists asbestos or not. There will be no dust underwater. its the dust that gets you...
Asbestos is like a sleeping dog: harmless, as long as you dont disturb it... And both will get you if you poke it with a screwdriver...

the Asbestos insulations i encountered soaked up water, and the peeled off chunks sank to the ground. If the insulation floats, its most likely some sort of foam.

then again, i'd consider what people in the seventies deemed as 'safe to use' foam and plastics, and remove the insulation anyway. your awesome original Olympia Pstat is capable of balancing an uninsulated boiler as well... Plus there is a chance that under the foam you'll find a nicely nickel-plated, shiny boiler...