Thanks for the info on this, everyone. Seems simple enough, just need to keep the shower screen on and be careful not to spill.

On another note, I just ordered a custom flat tamper from Wouter. Exact same form factor as the tamper that comes with the CT1, except that the tamping surface is perfectly flat, rather than the default slightly convex shape. I will experiment with it and post my findings on how it performs and if I see any difference in extractions.

After re-lubing the green piston seal, I'm finding that in general, the smoothness of the lever action deteriorates after about 1 week or so. After about 1 week, it exhibits considerable friction, nothing crazy but sort of that rubber-on-metal feeling.

I'm not sure why the smoothness would degrade this quickly, given that I make 1-2 shots a day, and the machine is on/hot for no more than 1hr per day in total. Wouter mentioned having to re-lube roughly every 6 weeks, which makes me concerned that I am not doing something right.

I know Erik mentioned that he re-lubes every 2 weeks, and others have said every 3, but in my case, every 1 week seems really too often. The only thing i can think of is that most of the lube rubs off the seal into the upper portion of the cylinder as the piston is being put back back and down into the cylinder. Therefore, that small range of motion at the bottom of the cylinder where the piston normally operates in would get very little lubrication.

Can anyone else comment on their "technique" in putting the piston back into the cylinder after re-lubing? (for instance, how careful are you in keeping the piston parallel/concentric with the cylinder when pushing it back in while the green seal is making contact with the cylinder but before the black seal has made contact.)
Do you see or feel any residue of lube anywhere on the interior of the group cylinder? (maybe allowing some lube residue to remain on the inner walls of the upper portion of the cylinder at all times allows for more "lube retention" on the green seal as the piston is being pushed back down into place)
I'm also very interested to know exactly how much lube (dow-111) you use. I'm told to apply "very little" lube (dow-111) on only the green seal; but how much is "very little?"
Thanks a lot!

djcuvcuv wrote: I'm told to apply "very little" lube (dow-111) on only the green seal; but how much is "very little?"
Thanks a lot!

I was significantly more liberal. I had 111 on both seals, with a wee bit inside the upper walls of the group...Dow is pretty much tasteless, non toxic, and a quick post rinse of the screen before shutting down will rinse out any 111 that might have snuck down. Of course, make sure all is squeaky clean on the seals, under the seals, and piston.

After re-lubing the green piston seal, I'm finding that in general, the smoothness of the lever action deteriorates after about 1 week or so. After about 1 week, it exhibits considerable friction, nothing crazy but sort of that rubber-on-metal feeling.

I'm not sure why the smoothness would degrade this quickly, given that I make 1-2 shots a day, and the machine is on/hot for no more than 1hr per day in total. Wouter mentioned having to re-lube roughly every 6 weeks, which makes me concerned that I am not doing something right.

I am having the same "problem" these days. It started when I replaced the green seal recently. After lubing the piston runs smooth for only a couple of days and I have to relube it at least every week. I changed the seal again for another new one without luck. I also changed the pressure kit piston from Gabor for the original one. Did not help either. I also decalcified the boiker and polished the inside. So the problem seems to be not related to either one particular seal nor to the piston and cylinder wall.

I am using the Strietman on a daily basis for about two years now. I did not have this issue before. My theory is that the current batch of seals is a tiny bit wider and stiffer than the previous batch.

I found an old green and used seal and tried it for a couple of days with good results. I also tried an Elektra mcal seal. I am trying this one only for one day now but so far so good. Looks promising. If the piston keeps running smoothly for more than a week with both the old seal and the mcal seal it must be the current batch of seals causing the issue. I will report back. In that case the fix is quite easy: just use the Elektra mcal seals in stead of the green ones until their is a new batch of green seals available. The mcal seals are widely available.

I am going to ask Wouter's opinion as well. Might be that the current seals have a tight fit but get less stiff after a couple of months use. So could be a self limiting problem.

Apart from this "minor inconvenience" I am stil liking my machine very much. It looks stunning, is very versatile and a pleasure to use. Above all the result in the cup is amazing. And as it is a machine without electronics it is an almost trouble free machine and maintenance is a breeze. The only reason to change to another machine would be the lack of steaming...

Not doing milk drinks I have to start seriously considering a CT1 vs a DE1+ next year...anybody have both?

Very interesting about the "sticky" green seals. I have a newer green seal installed, but no issues. I relube every 2-3 weeks. But, like Robert, I put Dow 111 on both the green seal and black seal as well as the inner wall of the group. Works well for me.

My practice and experience, as well.

RyanP wrote:Very interesting about the "sticky" green seals. I have a newer green seal installed, but no issues. I relube every 2-3 weeks. But, like Robert, I put Dow 111 on both the green seal and black seal as well as the inner wall of the group. Works well for me.

ah very interesting. i may try to add dow111 on those additional spots and see how it works out. when you say on the inner wall of the group, where exactly?

djcuvcuv wrote:ah very interesting. i may try to add Dow 111 on those additional spots and see how it works out. when you say on the inner wall of the group, where exactly?

Well my experience is that where it starts to get "sticky" is towards the latter half of the piston's travel up the group. So, again like Robert, I try to put a little extra dow 111 in the upper portion of the chamber where the piston travels.

day wrote:Not doing milk drinks I have to start seriously considering a CT1 vs a DE1+ next year...anybody have both?

Do you want a machine that will last 5-10 years max or a machine that lasts a very long time? Electronics do die after say 6 years (especially tablets). With the Gabor pressure kit you have all the options of pressure profiling and kind of flow profiling by adjusting how hard you pull. For espresso only there isn't an easier and more robust machine then the Strietman. With the DE1+ you have far more options.